cranking but not starting. Help me diagnose

[mhhs]

Have not thought much about it before, since I had it running for a while, but does anybody know what this black little thing is?

 

[uHu]

....what this black little thing is?
View attachment 339883

Might be a secondary immobilizer, with a responder chip attached to your key ring. I have something similar, installed by the previous owner, but much more hidden away. I have to put the little battery powered key-tag close to a thingy like that. It is wired to a black box which is wired to the ECU, and which used to have an old Nokia cell phone inside it for remote control, or possibly tracking. The chip runs out of battery every 4 years or so, and then the car will stop 2 secs after starting, and the alarm goes off. Reminds me - it's probably time to change the battery. Shoulda removed the dam thingy, but all the wiring.... (Since that used to be my job, I resent such jobs )

 

[mhhs]

Okay, yes, I am also thinking along those lines now But I have no extra thingy attached to the key ring. And as mentioned before, I have had it running, so could not be that I am missing that thingy. But, could it maybe be controlled by the standard key?
The door lock is not working great and the batteries in the keys are dead, so maybe start with a new battery in the key and try to lock/unlock the car?
I guess I have to follow the wiring from the black little part and see where they end up. If it is some kind of extra immobilizer or alarm it must be possible to remove it, I guess?

 

[philt350]

hmm.. I do not think so. I have 3 keys with which the indicator stops blinking. One is broken (cracked case), but it does not start with either of the other two. I would assume the key is recognized since it stops blinking? I also have a smaller key that is in another color, and with this one the indicator continues to blink.

Hello, was this issue ever resolved? I have exactly the same fault with my 100 series '01 reg. I have done the usual things as you have and came to the same conclusion - no fuel. I then tried dabbing 12v onto the spill valve and managed to get some smoke / random firing of the engine. Concluded the EDU was bad - replaced same, fault still on. I then convinced myself that the injector pump was u/s - however everyone I speak to says the pump does not fail in this way. I intend to get it back in the garage over the xmas break and start again from scratch - I have now upgraded my test equipment (decent scopemeter) to try to find out what is going on.

 

[mhhs]

Hi @philt350
No, unfortunately not fixed yet. I have not had the chance to work on it, more than that I got a techstream readout saying something in the line of "Immobilizer malfunction"

 

[SteveOD]

any update on this. I have a similar issue so am keen to hear if / when you figure it out. Thanks

 

[mhhs]

No update from my side. Have not worked anything more on the cruiser.

 

[MisterCruiser]

So it seems it's an immobiliser issue. Maybe one of the autokey type places could help fix it or where does one go with an immobiliser issue, hmmm!

 

[philt350]

So it seems it's an immobiliser issue. Maybe one of the autokey type places could help fix it or where does one go with an immobiliser issue, hmmm!

A couple of weeks back I had another go at my non starting LC - to recap it was running fine with no issues, then one day it would not start. Cranking fine but not firing at all. Tried pulling the codes - none stored. Did the usual electrical checks but all seemed in order, so was a bit stumped. Suspected the pump but several people I spoke to said they had never seen a pump fail in this manner. Fast forward to two weeks ago, checked the signals to / from the EDU module with a scopemeter. Both the 5v control signal from the ecu and the 120v spike from the EDU to the spill valve are present. So am now convinced the pump is at fault - just considering my options now. For info there is an excellent publication from DENSO that details the operation of the ECD series injector pumps. Also the 100 series workshop manual is excellent for wiring details etc.
Regarding the suspected immobiliser issue, I would scope the signals at the EDU first - if present it is not an immobiliser fault.

 

[Gary Stockton]

Not sure if you can get to this, but someone is working through a pump in order to get more oomph - might help you problem-solve though

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