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Diesel Heater - Where to put it!

@Bodie yep, I drilled the sender on the main tank.

Brilliant.... thank's Rosy, you've just confirmed my thoughts.
So now, I just need to sort it!
Unfortunately, lack of time also means, if I can make the Fotheringhay jaunt, I'm obvioulsly just going to be bloody cold!!
But no worries..... I'm sure Nick has a couple of big coats he can lend me!!
 
As you know how to do!
 
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@Bodie if you've got the kit and all the fixings I'd be happy to give you a hand installing it over the weekend. Should take maybe an hour / 90min depending on how you want to run the intake and exhaust.
 
@Rosy Rosy, Thank you.
But, like you, ideally I want to connect to the main sender unit and my 2nd row seat area is all kitted out, so I'd need to remove the fridge etc and then lift the wood flooring and carpet, just to get to it and I've got too much s*^* on this week to even get my head round that! (even been up and about before Nick this last week! to try and make this weekend), so it'll probably be extra coats at best! But really appreciate the offer.
But hopefully, what I might do is bring the bits I have got, bit of diesel and maybe test it all still works.
 
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I removed the original heater and mounted a 2KW air heater under the passenger seat. Needed to lift the chair 2cm with a spacer to make it fit.


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Am I correct in thinking that a coolant heater (eg Webasto Thermo Top) would require the cabin fans running via relay, and therefore likely to run down the battery, if used throughout the night e.g. 8 hours?
 
Yes, if the aim is to keep the cabin heated.

On my HDJ100, the Webasto takes 4 A, and the fan 4 A.
8 amps for 10 hours would be 80 AH, which is at least half of the usable energy of my 2 x 95 AH battery.
That is with 2 resistors of about 1 ohm each in series with the relays and the fan motor, giving about 4 V over the motor and 4 V over each resistor, which means that the motor draws 16 watts, as do each of the two resistors. What a waste. If you use an adjustable DC-DC converter instead, you could lower the motor voltage to about 3 volts (at 4 volts it's a bit too high), and get an approx 1 A motor draw, and a total of 5 A. Multiply by 10 hrs and get 50 AH, which is much better than 80.
When heating the car this way, the Webasto will not run continuously, but stop when reaching 80 deg. Then the fan and pump will continue running and keeping the cabin heated. The burner will then start again when getting down to 60 deg (iirc). That makes the power draw still a bit lower, as the heater/burner fan takes a lot. (and sounds like a jet engine as well)
 
Thanks @uHu

So for an air heater, using Eberspacher S2 D2L as example, 31W at 12V makes 2.6A amps on full chat, with an 'off' drain of 0.34A until it depletes to 10.5V.

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For 2x100Ah Yuasa, in theory this runs for 200/2.6 = 76.9hrs. But that's not the reality. One could halve battery power in cold weather to 2x50Ah, and then factoring in a desire to crank the engine, it feels like maybe even one overnight is on the cusp of an aircooler, without a leisure battery? The 24v starter is rated at 4.5kW, which comes to 187.5A.

I keep coming back to leaving the engine idling with hand throttle at 1200, campsite noise considerations aside.
 

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I've got a Eberspacher S2 D2L, and in my experience the figure is more like the minimum rather than the maximum 'during operation' figure. It's also so bloody good at heating a space that it's only ever on for a short time before the thermostat cuts in. Using it for 8 hours overnight in temps down to 0 deg C, its battery usage is not what I would call shocking on my 100Ah leisure battery. Although I would suggest the leisure battery would need some charging in-between overnight usage.

I appreciate that down to 0 isn't actually that cold, but just thought it might help.

N
 
Very easy installation. I removed the original heater and placed a small 2kw in the same place. Drilled holes for air, exhaust, and fuel. I took the fuel directly from the main tank. Only a spacer on the rear mount for it to run freely.
 
Very easy installation. I removed the original heater and placed a small 2kw in the same place. Drilled holes for air, exhaust, and fuel. I took the fuel directly from the main tank. Only a spacer on the rear mount for it to run freely.
I am going to do it your way. Just removed the passenger heater. Next step is drilling the hole.
 

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Not much wiggle room under there but fits. The chassis runs right underneath which made connecting the exhaust a bit of a tw@t
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if i remember tomorrow...
 
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Just enough room.for the pipe to come out the side and bend round back under the seat toward the centre console ( in my case it's out the way but pipe can get squashed if there's a rear passenger)
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Quality workmanship, Stanley knife and a straight edge, perspex doesn't seem to like being snapped into thin strips So is a bit wonky. Haven't yet put another strip on the other side to make it fully reversible for the opposite window. I just used one of the standard pipe connectors through the perspex and stuck it all together.
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And it's trial run, toasty all night and frost outside in the morning
 
Where does the exhaust run to nick, and do you put anything on it to stop it filling with water when wading?
 
Tucked up out the way and exit by the wheel arch, it survived another trip to strata with a sandwich bag wrapped round it, although there was a bit of water got into the bag. Will use some rubber gloves next time
 
Where does the exhaust run to nick, and do you put anything on it to stop it filling with water when wading?……….

That’s what I do, latex glove over the exhaust & air inlet, exhaust in rear wheel arch, and inlet up under the chassis
 
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