Dinitrol Rust Treatment, Toyota Prado KZJ95

[Bert]

Hello folks.

After quite a long time deliberating the pros and cons of having rust prevention treatment carried out, I finally bit the bullet and had the underside of my Toyota protected. To start with, the underside of the old Gal was, in my opinion, in reasonably good shape considering her age. Any rust that was present was mainly light surface rust, and I wanted it to stay that way, for as long as possible. To make the process as easy as possible for the folks carrying out the works, I removed my side rails, and all but the front underbody protection plates. I then spent quite a bit of time jet washing the underside, getting into all the nooks and crannies I could find, and then running the garden hose in through the back of each chassis rail and feeding it as far forward as possible until all the ejecting water ran clear. Then it was a short trip to the Professionals to leave her there for a week while the rust protection/prevention work was carried out.

Here are some before and after shots for your enjoyment.

And now for the intermediate processes.....

And the final stage.....

I have to say that I am impressed with the result so far, but only time will tell as to how effective the treatment process has been. The cost to carry out this work was £620, which could be argued either way if it is too much, or cheap. What I bore in the back of my mind though, was this. A friend of mine has a Land Rover (I know, it is hard to compare a Landy to a Toyota) with about 168 thousand miles on the clock, and the chassis has gone. This is going to cost him between 5k and 6k to rectify, namely a strip down and replacing the chassis, so I thought getting mine protected now may save me pain in the future. I hope so anyway.

I know this isn't the most riveting of posts, but I thought I'd share the photos with you anyway, because we all love photos don't we

Next job on the list is to get my brake callipers rebuilt. The love never ends.
Happy travels all.

 

[diggerdave]

Great pictures. I've just done the poor man's version, painting the chassis rails with Hammerite smooth black (I haven't yet got all the harder to access/jetwash bits), which I feel is sufficient for the condition and value of my truck. But yours looks a beauty so good call I reckon.

 

[Bert]

Great pictures. I've just done the poor man's version, painting the chassis rails with Hammerite smooth black (I haven't yet got all the harder to access/jetwash bits), which I feel is sufficient for the condition and value of my truck. But yours looks a beauty so good call I reckon.

Thanks DD. I was going to do it myself too, even bought myself some products to get started, but in the end I just couldn't get my hands on a steam cleaner and didn't fancy trying to do it all lying on my back with the car on ramps. I would've come out as a candidate for a minstrel show. I'm pleased you like the look of mine, and in my unbiased opinion, I think she's bloody awesome.

 

[diggerdave]

Ha, yes it would take a lot of work on my driveway to achieve anything like what a professional can do... I'm not claiming my rough old hammerite job is anywhere close.

My car had a fair chunk of rot in the sills when I got it and, although I got it cut and welded, the legacy of rot lives on elsewhere in the sills, and various other parts of the bodywork are joining the sills in a 'who can go rusty red the quickest' competition. I deal with it as best I can and always wash the underside regularly, but it's a losing battle I think.

The chassis is in pretty decent nick though and overall I would say the car is functional, but unlikely to last forever and extremely unlikely to be worth much!

 

[Bert]

..........., but it's a losing battle I think......., but unlikely to last forever........

Heartbreaking, or am I just too attached?

 

[diggerdave]

Heartbreaking, or am I just too attached?

Well, I was referring to mine of course. Yours will definitely last forever judging by those photos

 

[clivehorridge]

That’s a fine looking job you’ve had done on Bert, looks good quality but you’d be a better judge of that...

I really want to get mine done, but did they really need the truck to be left with them for a week?

 

[Bert]

but did they really need the truck to be left with them for a week?

Hi Clive. No, it typically takes three days I understand, but it was easier for me to drop it off on a Saturday, and collect the following Saturday...... they do provide a courtesy car too if required, included within the price.

 

[clivehorridge]

Hi Clive. No, it typically takes three days I understand, but it was easier for me to drop it off on a Saturday, and collect the following Saturday...... they do provide a courtesy car too if required, included within the price.

Thanks for your reply. I was asking because I plan to drive the truck to the UK next year (hopefully to attend a Lincomb bash) and I wondered if I could get mine done professionally while I’m there.

Mine probably isn’t in as good condition as yours, but the chassis condition is similar and if they could get it looking anything like yours does now, I’d be delighted.

 

[diggerdave]

I think £620 is a pretty decent price. Materials alone must cost quite a lot of that and, although I don't imagine it involves three days of continuous work, there is also several hours of labour to consider too and workshop overheads.

Does the £620 include cleaning too? I note that you jetwashed beforehand, but what about stripping the surface of old waxoyl or any flaky rust, and steam cleaning?

 

[Josh Tagg]

That looks brilliant, I wouldn't argue with that price neither, there's an awful lot of work gone in to that and it looks a very nice finish

 

[Bert]

Does the £620 include cleaning too? I note that you jetwashed beforehand, but what about stripping the surface of old waxoyl or any flaky rust, and steam cleaning?

Hi DD.
Yeah the price included everything. I just wanted to get under there myself beforehand to do as much as possible, and to inspect the condition before the job got done.
There was no protection to remove as it's never been done before, and there was no flaky rust to speak of. She's been well looked after before I took custody of her.

 

[Nick Sabrazat]

Looks like a very decent job, with no visible overspray.

Where did you get this done? I will be looking to get my truck done once I have had all the rust sorted.

Nick.

 

[Bert]

Where did you get this done? I will be looking to get my truck done once I have had all the rust sorted. Nick.

Hello Nick.... I got it done by this bunch: http://www.broadlanelandrovers.co.uk/chassis-corrosion-protection-dinitrol-waxoyl-wiltshire/

 

[alexy]

wherever you do it, just stay away from "before and after" based in Rugby, Midlands. he has adverts in land rover magazine, but my experience with him was terrible.

 

[TALAMAN]

Nice work there! looks really tidy.

 

[diggerdave]

wherever you do it, just stay away from "before and after" based in Rugby, Midlands. he has adverts in land rover magazine, but my experience with him was terrible.

Do tell!
I see his adverts in the land rover mags all the time, with great claims about how he's the one and only trustworthy rust-proofer.

 

[chapel gate]

Hello folks.

After quite a long time deliberating the pros and cons of having rust prevention treatment carried out, I finally bit the bullet and had the underside of my Toyota protected. To start with, the underside of the old Gal was, in my opinion, in reasonably good shape considering her age. Any rust that was present was mainly light surface rust, and I wanted it to stay that way, for as long as possible. To make the process as easy as possible for the folks carrying out the works, I removed my side rails, and all but the front underbody protection plates. I then spent quite a bit of time jet washing the underside, getting into all the nooks and crannies I could find, and then running the garden hose in through the back of each chassis rail and feeding it as far forward as possible until all the ejecting water ran clear. Then it was a short trip to the Professionals to leave her there for a week while the rust protection/prevention work was carried out.

Here are some before and after shots for your enjoyment.

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And now for the intermediate processes.....
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And the final stage.....

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I have to say that I am impressed with the result so far, but only time will tell as to how effective the treatment process has been. The cost to carry out this work was £620, which could be argued either way if it is too much, or cheap. What I bore in the back of my mind though, was this. A friend of mine has a Land Rover (I know, it is hard to compare a Landy to a Toyota) with about 168 thousand miles on the clock, and the chassis has gone. This is going to cost him between 5k and 6k to rectify, namely a strip down and replacing the chassis, so I thought getting mine protected now may save me pain in the future. I hope so anyway.

I know this isn't the most riveting of posts, but I thought I'd share the photos with you anyway, because we all love photos don't we

Next job on the list is to get my brake callipers rebuilt. The love never ends.
Happy travels all.

What is actually the product bert? Is it a converter then wax? Or?

 

[Bert]

What is actually the product bert? Is it a converter then wax? Or?

Hello CG.

Here's the official blurb on the whole process involved:

How we rustproof the vehicle.

Once your vehicle is entrusted into our care we believe it’s the treatment centres responsibility to ensure that no damage occurs. Before accessing the vehicle cabin, we prepare the interior with protective floor mats, seat, steering wheel & gear knob covers. We then conduct the following step-by-step process below:

Professional Step-by-Step vehicle rustproofing treatment process

1. Disassembly

During the first stage, we hoist the vehicle using a ramp and remove all the wheels by unscrewing them. We then proceed to remove all plastic trim covers fitted around the vehicle and undercarriage to provide full access for the corrosion protection treatment applications.

2. Pressure washing

Once all plastic trim covers are removed to fully expose the vehicle under-carriage. The vehicle chassis underbody area and wheel arches are steam cleaned.

3. Drying period & inspection

After the vehicle is completely dry, the vehicle underbody area will be professionally inspected by a trained technician searching for evidence of rust or corrosion starting to appear. If any evidence of corrosion is already present the rust will be treated with RC900 a specialist converter and primer.

4. Cavity wax treatment

A penetrating cavity wax is injected into doors, bonnet and vehicle body frame via small insertion holes using a specialist lance extension.

5. Applying underbody coating

A thin layer of penetrating cavity wax is applied to provide an under-carriage pre-treatment before the final protective underbody coating is applied. Once the underbody coating layer is dry it provides protection for the vehicle chassis against gravel, salt and harsh weather conditions.

6. Cleaning the vehicle

Once all the treatments have been applied to the vehicle. The car will be completely washed and cleaned to ensure any unwanted residue is removed. A mirror hanger will also be hung in the vehicle cabin containing useful information in relation to your DINITROL treatment.

7. Photo Documentation

Throughout the vehicle rustproofing treatment process the technician will take pictures before, during and after the treatment. This photographic documented evidence is shown to the customer when collecting their vehicle and is archived with the vehicles treatment history information.

8. Final inspection

After the vehicle has been fully cleaned, we conduct a final inspection before refitting all the plastic covers. On collecting the vehicle, you will also be provided with an application certificate & photographic evidence of the treatment

What if my car is already rusty?

Before we start any vehicle protection applications, we thoroughly wash the undercarriage chassis area and conduct an inspection for any evident rust and corrosion damage. With any loose rust or corrosion protection coatings from previous treatments removed with a wire brush. On completing our inspection, we will contact you if critical rust damage is present to recommend any required further treatments or repairs. Our specialist rust converter contains a complex organic chelate base and epoxy resin that converts rust on substrates into a stable organic iron complex. Dinitrol products slow down the development of rust to extend the life of the vehicle.

 

[chapel gate]

Thanks bert.
looks great btw.