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Drive line judder

Just picked up the Truetrac from the post office, will get some pictures later. Will hopefully get it fitted this weekend but might have to take it to work on monday to press the bearings on.
 
Pics as promised:

New vs Old
IMAG0145.jpg

IMAG0146.jpg


As I thought Im going to have to take the Truetrac to work so I can press the bearings on, so probably wont be able to fit it till next weekend now. :thumbdown:

Ive been cleaning everything out today and you wouldn’t believe the amount of bits of metal I keep getting off/out if everything, the washing up bowl Ive been using as a parts cleaner has a such a layer or swarf and filings at the bottom its more like panning for gold than cleaning diff parts! :roll:
 
So I pressed the bearings on at work today, I am going to fit the ring gear in a minute.

The Toyota manual says:
INSTALL RING GEAR ON DIFFERENTIAL CASE
(a) Clean the contact surfaces of the differential case
and ring gear .

(b) Heat the ring gear in boiling water.

(c) After the moisture on the ring gear has completely
evaporated, quickly install the ring gear to the differ-
ential case .

(d) Temporarily install five new lock plates and the ten
bolts so that the bolt holes in the ring gear and dif-
ferential case are not misaligned .
NOTICE : The ring gear set bolts should not be tightened
until the ring gear has cooled sufficiently .

(e) After the ring gear has cooled sufficiently, torque
the ring gear set bolts . Torque : 985 kg-cm (71 ft-lb, 97 N •m )


Is there any reason why I couldnt just put the ring gear in the oven at about 100*C for a few mins? Seems a bit silly to get it wet then have to ensure its completely dry? :think:
 
Probably because most garages can heat water but won't have an oven?
 
Did it with the oven and it worked fine. Must remember to wash the pan before I use it next, trans oil doesnt taste so good! :sick:
 
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DOH! :doh:

Been a bit silly and tried to re-use the locking tabs for the ring gear bolts, turns out you definitely cant get away with bending them more than once as some of the tabs have sheared. I used thread lock on the dolts too but Im not sure whether its worth risking it, all bolts have at least on tab in place. I popped into my local Toyota dealer today to see if I could get some new ones and they cant get any till Wednesday! :thumbdown:

Good news though was I found out that my neighbours son is the regional service manager so he can get me a discount and offered to deliver them as he is often round to visit his parents. Now that is service! :D
 
Finally got all the parts:

All built up and back lash adjusted ready to fit tomorrow
IMAG0148.jpg


Spent most of the morning clearing the rest of the swarf out of the axle :roll:
 
Sorry, should have updated this. All fitted now and all seems to be well. I ran it for about 150miles with cheap oil in it then drained it to get the last remnants of debris out and refilled both diffs with new good quality oil.

I noticed that Eaton dont recommend fully synthetic oils for the TrueTrac, I wonder why? Would have thought fully synth would be better?
 
The blurb sheet that accompanied my Truetrac just says use the oil recommended by the vehicle maker. I have used fully synthetic since fitting the unit.

When I saw Dave's comment re: synthetic, I asked the question to Eaton and Lucas (my oil supplier). I also checked on a few American forums. The forums were divided as to whether synthetic was good or bad.

A Mr Brent Bussell from Eaton has responded with a definite no-no. He recommends a standard petroleum based oil with no additives.

Guess I need to change my oil.

Roger
 
Does the Truetrac have any parts that might in theory be vulnerable to synthetic oil and not mineral? :think: This seems very strange - I can't help but wonder if Mr. Bussell and his colleagues are stuck in the dark ages and still believe that pushrods V8s are cutting edge :snooty:

Unless the synthetic is going to damage components (highly unlikely from what I can tell), surely the oil that's going to maintain its capabilities longest is best? All else being equal, synthetic should be longer lasting. Are there even any standard mineral oils with no additives left?

Don't blame you for following the manufacturers advice, Roger :thumbup: Just curious as to why the manufacturer gives that particular advice ;)
 
Might be worth trying to find out what materials apart from steel are in the diff. If is steel only then I don't see why you cant use fully synthetic.
 
I looked at various Yankee forums and the general feeling is the same. Why don't they like synthetic?

For my own interest I found a nice level country lane with the grass verge running directly up to the tarmac. The grass was wet and the tarmac was damp. Full blooded starts in two wheel drive with the inside wheels on the grass promoted equel wheel spin both sides. There was no sign of serious ripping of the grass. Today, in the Peak District, we found lots of moorland sealed roads with frozen sections on the n/side. Normal amounts of power did not promote any wheel spin on the n/side rear wheel.

In other words, the Truetrac is doing exactly what it says on the tin, so the synthetic stays . The internals in the Truetrac are basically steel gears, so I cannot see what synthetic could do to damage it.

On the Yankee forums there were a number of people who said basically what I have i.e. the unit works, what's the problem?

I have emailed back to Eaton with some specific questions, but so far no answer.

Don't hold your breath.

Roger
 
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