Has anyone got any info on what can be removed and what needs to be kept? Only interested in the vacuum system and the electrical side. the mechanical side is already done.
I guess you could remove the vacuum actuators and just block off the pipes if you wish. I unplugged the wiring connectors and got an engine light up on the dash so that may be a bit more involved. Don’t know if you’re aware but the new (as of May this year) MOT rules make retro removal of any emissions kit including EGR components a fail. I had mine tested just before the new rules kicked in. I suppose it depends on how vigilant the tester is and how strictly the new regs are to be enforced.
Christ, I'm not refitting that rubbish, its been off for about the last 4 or 5 years. I just want to to finish the job properly and get rid of all the associated vacuum pipes, switches and wiring.
Mines also been off for probably even longer but it’s still in the garage. Might be a case of refitting it but leaving it disabled if it can’t get through the test without it.
8.2.2 Compression ignition engine emissions 8.2.2.1 Exhaust emission control equipment
You only need to check components that are visible and identifiable, such as diesel oxidation catalysts, diesel particulate filters, exhaust gas recirculation valves and selective catalytic reduction valves.
If a diesel particulate filter has clearly been cut open and rewelded, you should reject it unless the vehicle presenter can show evidence that there was a valid reason to cut it open, such as for filter cleaning.
DefectCategory
Emission control equipment fitted by the manufacturer missing, obviously modified or obviously defective
Major
An induction or exhaust leak that could affect emissions levels
Major
Evidence that the diesel particulate filter has been tampered with
Major
A bit contradictory really. “Visible and identifiable components”. So if they can’t see or identify it then it can’t be checked, yet missing OEM emmision control equipment is a major and a fail. Like I said above it all depends on how they check the OEM specs. If they do it by VIN No. (if that’s possible) then you’ll have to refit it.
They can't check the spec of every car even if they had all the manuals.But you would fail with an 80 with missing bits if the tester had owned one for example. I think the tester would have to be quite certain to fail a car with missing bits. Just a blanking plate visible may not be enough.
As regards emissions my egr's were blanked years ago and my engine produces the same emission level than it did before removal and they are only about 20% of the maximum allowed. If you arrive at the test after a good 6 mile run behind you to clear the engine and warm it up you should be OK.
I'm not sure blanking of the egr serves any purpose anyway. It lets oil and soot in to the inlet manifold but I've never heard first hand that this has caused a problem. It's probably a self limiting build up with bits occasionaly breaking off and burning up inside the engine.
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