Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Engine Bay Fire!

Steveindar

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2014
Messages
173
Country Flag
tanzania
Morning All, a week ago Sunday we had a fire when wiring loom caught alight at front left where the loom passes behind the headlight and in front of the battery. Didn't think to take a pic of the fire, too busy extinguishing! Anyway I stripped out everything in the way then slowly tried to trace all wires by colour in order to replace the damaged sections. Inevitably there were some that had burnt all the colour coded insulation off creating a real mess.
I managed to get the main supply wiring reinstated so now the car starts and runs. following colour codes I also got the lights and indicators up and running. I am now left with a few odd wires that don't seem to have a home and don't match ends and there are a few weird issues happening. Dash lights not coming on, Headlights don't switch off when ignition off. Lights coming on when dark and ignition off and key removed! It has an auto position on the stalk and a light sensor I assume, where would that be?
What I desperately need is a specific wiring diagram for the under bonnet fuse box loom. It covers all the front end lights etc. I am sure that I can trace all issues with that.
Car is 1HZ HDJ81
Thanks

Steve
 
Loom leftover
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20211022_094459_7.jpg
    IMG_20211022_094459_7.jpg
    393.9 KB · Views: 75
  • IMG_20211022_094505_9.jpg
    IMG_20211022_094505_9.jpg
    468.6 KB · Views: 84
There used to be a link on this forum to factory manuals and they contained the wiring diagrams. Not sure if left hand drive was included if that is what you have. I should try having a look here.
 
Good luck with that Steve. As Frank says, the FSM is the best place and I do believe it covers both LHD and RHD but takes a bit of reading as all models are covered with notes to the models.

Glad you put it out. Did you find out what caused it?
 
Frank, RHD here.
StarCruiser, I think the battery box managed to short through the loom. Both fenders on which the batteries rest have started to subside with all the beating they take offroad here. My nearest tar road is 45km's away so we do about 90% of driving on dirt. Depending on what season, dust or mud, the road conditions vary wildly. It's crazy that the fenders have to carry the weight of the batteries with no real support under or to the chassis. Everything, including the front plates that the lights fix to start to crack and break.
Firewout, thx, I'll study this tonight.
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Just incase your are wondering what's behind the dash and under the battery boxes. Been chasing burnt wiring all week. cut out a few and replaced with my own colours. Car runs but headlights are still dicky.
 

Attachments

  • thumbnail.jpg
    thumbnail.jpg
    159.8 KB · Views: 61
  • wirirng 5.jpg
    wirirng 5.jpg
    199.3 KB · Views: 55
  • wiring 2.jpg
    wiring 2.jpg
    147.5 KB · Views: 62
  • wiring 4.jpg
    wiring 4.jpg
    258.9 KB · Views: 56
  • wirirng 6.jpg
    wirirng 6.jpg
    308.4 KB · Views: 61
Hi All, well I got mamas car running pretty quickly by replacing a whole bunch of burnt wiring. Now I've come to a dead end and I can't get the AC, dash lights and headlights working. Obviously I'm missing something. I feel I need to buy a new/used wiring harness for my model. Can any of the vendors help?
'94 model 1HZ VX. RNPES.
Cheers
Steve
 
Bloody'ell Steve!!!
What a mess you've got on your hands! But so pleased for you, that you were able to put the fire out!
One thing is for sure, sharing this on the site is a great idea, so thanks!
This under bonnet fire issue, has been a concern in the back of my mind for some time now, after reading, a few years ago, about 3 separate instances where this happened (all in sunnier climes I have to say!). But with no real conclusion on how the fires started.
One instance, (can't remember exactly where now, although I'm sure there'll be someone on here that's got a better memory than me), when the poor guy then, couldn't get the bonnet open in his fully prepared overland 80 and lost the lot!!. Bloody tragic!
But for the first time, (for me anyway!) you've actually indicated where a potential fire risk is..... So Thankyou for that Steve.
There will be a lot of people out there, like me, who are planning overland trips in the sun/desert etc. that will be very great greatfull for this information.
As you can see, there's some very knowledge guys on here, with access to great technical information, so hope you get the truck back to normal as soon as possible.
Bodie.
 
Last edited:
A bit lat now but FWIW I have removed the fusible links and put a fuse box on the auxiliary battery wiring and fitted it to the inner wing and then for good measure I have put block fuses on the main battery terminals as per the Mercedes 4 x 4, this is in case I rear end someone or hit a tree or whatever, might be worth a thought later on to the OP and other the readers?

Regards

Dave
 
Dave, Can you explain the significance of the rear ending/tree bit please.
 
Sure, I converted my car to 12 volt starter using the 3 kw unit using a starter from a 100 series, and later the 'proper unit' so I could use one battery to crank the engine and have an auxiliary to run the fridge which I cannot do without, it also gives me the facility if need to allow the car to jump start itself if the starter battery went flat by pressing a button on the centre console.

In the stock 80 there is a heavy cable the connects the batteries together via the starter relay to give 24 V to start and return to 12 V for running and charging, and the cables run over the fan shroud, I also have an electric engine cooling fan so nowhere to fix the cables to safely so, I run the cables under the slam panel above the grill so they are right at the very front of the car, if I hit someone in the back of their car or hit a tree the front panel could cut into the cables and earth them, this would be a serious fire risk, so each cable has a fuse block at the positive terminal of each battery, if the cable got damaged and earthed it would blow the fuse at the battery terminal and prevent the fire. When I do a mod I like to think I have it spot on and covered all the risks. :thumbup:

Regards

Dave
 
Last edited:
OK Dave, now I get it, couple of bits I didn't realise..... but now I understand. Cheers.
 
Could you share what type/size of fuse block you using. Pixs would help.
S
 
@Steveindar Sorry Steve just seen your post about fuse blocks, I should have said fuse 'cubes' see the link below. Choose a size that you might need, for example, with my 12v conversion if I need to jump start the engine from the auxiliary battery. the amperage would be quite high, so IIRC 250A? But not needed to jump start the 80 yet but a carry a couple of spares.

I done this many years ago and am not at home at the moment, so cannot check what rating I have used.


Regards

Dave
 
Last edited:
Back
Top