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Engine oil
- Thread starter essexpete
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I've used 10-30 semi, 10-40 semi or long drain mineral ( for pre adblue trucks) 15-40 semi over the last 25+ years on my 80's with no effect ever. It certainly isn't critical on a 4.2 24V engine and fully synth is a waste of money. I've never subscribed to changing oil on a "time basis" only a 5K mileage interval.
To put it into perspective when we moved to all adblue trucks and the bulk oil tank ( 10-40 mineral oil long drain) had 30-40 gallons left we couldn't use I used it up over a period of time on my 60, 80, D4D 90, V6 90, my 100 series and several changes on the 120 and the effect it had on the engines, none.
Its more important to change the oil every 5K with a genuine filter than be worrying about this oil or that oil, I wouldn't put 0-30 in though, its too thin.
Years ago, pre adblue days we had 3 trucks ( DAF's) which we knew we were going to decommission so we ran them on the waste engine oil out of the cruisers and other cars etc as an experiment. we never changed the oil, just the filter once a year and kept topping them up with waste oil. they ran for a further 3 years till we exported them with still perfect engines.
The moral is, there's a lot of bull about this oil, that oil etc.
To put it into perspective when we moved to all adblue trucks and the bulk oil tank ( 10-40 mineral oil long drain) had 30-40 gallons left we couldn't use I used it up over a period of time on my 60, 80, D4D 90, V6 90, my 100 series and several changes on the 120 and the effect it had on the engines, none.
Its more important to change the oil every 5K with a genuine filter than be worrying about this oil or that oil, I wouldn't put 0-30 in though, its too thin.
Years ago, pre adblue days we had 3 trucks ( DAF's) which we knew we were going to decommission so we ran them on the waste engine oil out of the cruisers and other cars etc as an experiment. we never changed the oil, just the filter once a year and kept topping them up with waste oil. they ran for a further 3 years till we exported them with still perfect engines.
The moral is, there's a lot of bull about this oil, that oil etc.
Towpack
Well-Known Member
The youngest 24v 80's are now 25years old and the the basic engine design is over 30 years old so doesn't need space age oil. Using the latest high tech fully synthetic stuff is like feeding elephants on strawberries and may even be detrimental to old seals etc. The owner's handbook stipulates API CD so start with that and shop round for best prices, that's what I do.
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Our neighbors Dad bought a new Shogun 15 years ago. It's done 230,000 miles and he has never changed the oil, just kept it topped up. Oil is black but looks like oil. It does not burn much and I suppose topping up means it's reached a stable level of deterioration as at least it does get some new oil regularly.
I have a friend who has treated a Citroën van just like that and seems to have got away with it for years.
I have used semi synthetic for years but have have a large barrel of mineral 15w 40 in the shed. It is a reasonably modern spec but not for common rails with ad blue and Dpf etc.
I have used semi synthetic for years but have have a large barrel of mineral 15w 40 in the shed. It is a reasonably modern spec but not for common rails with ad blue and Dpf etc.
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Think i would use the 15w 40 . Way i see it is dinosaur oil breaks down quicker than synthetic is all and synthetic has a greater tolerance to temperature both high and low . I would assume all engine oils contain ingredients to prolong seal life .
Semi is just the middle cost effective option .
How you drive is mixes things up considerably I'd guess , old school diesel should redline occasionally because they are made for brutal industrial applications so driving miss daisy will choke them .
Ironically i have never seen that movie
Semi is just the middle cost effective option .
How you drive is mixes things up considerably I'd guess , old school diesel should redline occasionally because they are made for brutal industrial applications so driving miss daisy will choke them .
Ironically i have never seen that movie
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I'd deffo use the 15-40. If its the stuff for lorries ( which we change at around 40K miles) then 5 k changes in the 80 will save you money you can spend on diesel and go further for less.
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15w 40 has perked my interest , if its good enough for CAT and JCB longevity at around £110 for 25 litres ....... its probably what goes in my boat though i've never given it much thought because all the boats in the local fleet get the same generic engine oil from the same supplier .
I have used this in every Cruiser I have had and a lot of older tractors and machines
www.smithandallan.com
Smith & Allan Endura T3 15W-40 - Heavy Duty Engine Oil
www.smithandallan.com
I changed the oil in my 1HD FT a few weeks ago and as I was buying a load of bits for a customer from Roughtrax I bought a premier service kit from them .. this included "Genuine Toyota reccomended oil " this was Toyota 10w40 . I also got an original filter and can confirm that a genuine filter weighs much more than the after market supposedy OEM standard one in their kit so there's a conclusion to be drawn somewhere ;-)
Only thing with the 10w40 was that oil pressure on the gauge was lower both at tickover and at higher revs.... ...after a 300 mile non stop trip with heavy vehicle and trailer on the back at tickover it was below the first mark on the gauge by a needles width ..... we did the return trip and out of curiosity I changed the sender unit for the gauge but readings were still the same .
I dropped the 650 odd mile old 10W40 and filled up with a good but basic spec 15w40 and the pressure on the gauge returned to normal for my engine just above the first mark at tickover hot and above the 3rd mark running above 2000 rpm hot ....on cold start pressure is nearly at the top of the gauge .
Now to my simple mind at running temp both oils should be a 40 viscocity so the gauge should read the same.... this didn't happen so I can only conclude 10w40 isn't realy the oil you want in an 1hd FT .
Maybe the Toyota oil was better spec but maybe that's lost on a 30 year old engine design .
Only thing with the 10w40 was that oil pressure on the gauge was lower both at tickover and at higher revs.... ...after a 300 mile non stop trip with heavy vehicle and trailer on the back at tickover it was below the first mark on the gauge by a needles width ..... we did the return trip and out of curiosity I changed the sender unit for the gauge but readings were still the same .
I dropped the 650 odd mile old 10W40 and filled up with a good but basic spec 15w40 and the pressure on the gauge returned to normal for my engine just above the first mark at tickover hot and above the 3rd mark running above 2000 rpm hot ....on cold start pressure is nearly at the top of the gauge .
Now to my simple mind at running temp both oils should be a 40 viscocity so the gauge should read the same.... this didn't happen so I can only conclude 10w40 isn't realy the oil you want in an 1hd FT .
Maybe the Toyota oil was better spec but maybe that's lost on a 30 year old engine design .
Towpack
Well-Known Member
Oil pressure is really only half the story. Pressure is just a resistance to flow but a higher oil pressure doesn't necessarily mean better engine protection. That comes down to the film strength which is another story and down to the chemical composition of the oil. The 10w40 may show a lower pressure but will get round the engine quicker. As for why a 10w40 shows a lower oil pressure than a 15w40 when hot when they should both, in theory, be the same, I've no idea!
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R/T Toyota 10/40 is semi synthetic .
I imagine you will kill a modern synthetic only engine by putting dinosaur oil in it .
I expect synthetic viscosity doesn't vary much due to temperature , hence its use in high performance low tolerance machines .
Where engine oil can freeze they use synthetic .
Different pressures is interesting , I wonder if it because the synthetic reacts differently to dinosaur when your coolant cycles ?
I imagine you will kill a modern synthetic only engine by putting dinosaur oil in it .
I expect synthetic viscosity doesn't vary much due to temperature , hence its use in high performance low tolerance machines .
Where engine oil can freeze they use synthetic .
Different pressures is interesting , I wonder if it because the synthetic reacts differently to dinosaur when your coolant cycles ?
whereisgibson
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A blast from the past, but I did 12000 with no ill effects according to an oil analysis: 1HDFT oil change interval and analysis - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]
Being way OTT with oil concerns I have been using Repsol 10/40 mineral for as long as I can remember on old style diesels including my own 80. As I feel Toyota made a mistake giving us an oil pressure gauge and no oil pressure light was a mistake, so I fitted not only a buzzer and light, but also an adjustable oil pressure switch, this was set at IIRC 20 psi?
Awhile back I changed the oil and filter and used my normal oil as above, when the engine got hot the oil light and buzzer came on at idle. It turns out that despite the same 10/40 oil in the same container, there was a little stamp stating 'Synthetic Blend'! So this is absolute proof that despite stating the oil viscosity is 10/40.... it is clearly not....or the previous version was heavier than 10/40.
Now they no longer sell 10/40 synthetic blend, it is now simply 10/40 semi synthetic. I think all manufacturers will move to some form of synthetic oil eventually.
Regards
Dave
Awhile back I changed the oil and filter and used my normal oil as above, when the engine got hot the oil light and buzzer came on at idle. It turns out that despite the same 10/40 oil in the same container, there was a little stamp stating 'Synthetic Blend'! So this is absolute proof that despite stating the oil viscosity is 10/40.... it is clearly not....or the previous version was heavier than 10/40.
Now they no longer sell 10/40 synthetic blend, it is now simply 10/40 semi synthetic. I think all manufacturers will move to some form of synthetic oil eventually.
Regards
Dave
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