stuzbot
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2021
- Messages
- 471
*maybe
OK. I know this is likely to open a can of worms, as there are people who swear by the necessity for using all manner of specific and arcane formulas, when it comes to filling your motor's various orifices. And there are equally as many people who have had half a million trouble free miles from just bunging in whatever was to hand at the time. But here goes....
Obviously the first thing I'm going to do in the coming week is change all my fluids and filters. So some questions
OIL --I've always used 15w/40 in all my motors. Most of which are around the same vintage as my Land Cruiser [ie. 90s - 2000]. My thinking being that even a good engine of that vintage will have some wear so a slightly more viscous oil will fill those widening tolerances better. I know Toyota recommends 5W/40. But that would be from factory fresh and seems very thin to me, for a 20 year old engine. Would 10W/40 be about right as a compromise?
Then there's the old Dino vs Semi vs Synth debate. I was running a quality German 100% mineral oil in my VW van, as consensus in VW land [or as near consensus as you can get on these things] was that the old VW diesel engines were built to run on dino oil, so use what VW intended. Thing is, I have two unopened 5l cans of that left. So I'm thinking it wouldn't do any harm to use them for my first oil change on the Cruiser --almost like a flush and then, after a couple of thousand miles, change again for a fully synth. Thoughts?
OIL FILTER --any special requirements there? Again, coming from VW land, the recommended thing was to use a particular Mann filter which had an internal non-return valve which made for better lubrication at startup by stopping the oil draining out of the filter. Any similar advice in LC land?
COOLANT --What recommendations there? I've got a 5l pot of Prestone [again left over from my VW days] which I keep for emergency coolant top ups. It's marketed as being suitable to mix with any other types; red, blue, etc. Presuming it'll be fine for a similar purpose in the LC. But what are the recommendations for the main coolant to use when doing a complete flush?
TRANSMISSION OIL --Auto box all new to me. So what are people using for that?
DIFF OIL / TRANSFER BOX --What are people using there?
That should cover most of the 'stuff' that people get evangelical about. With other things like posh diesel vs. supermarket vs. supermarket + additives, I shall carry over my existing prejudices from previous van ownership.
FREON -- [I presume that's what it is]. My AirCon's not working. So I presume I need it re-gassed. However, this also raises the question as to whether it's not working now because it has a leak. Is there any way to test this without actually refilling it. Or do you just find out by getting it re-gassed and then listening to your money hissing away into the atmosphere?
OK. I know this is likely to open a can of worms, as there are people who swear by the necessity for using all manner of specific and arcane formulas, when it comes to filling your motor's various orifices. And there are equally as many people who have had half a million trouble free miles from just bunging in whatever was to hand at the time. But here goes....
Obviously the first thing I'm going to do in the coming week is change all my fluids and filters. So some questions
OIL --I've always used 15w/40 in all my motors. Most of which are around the same vintage as my Land Cruiser [ie. 90s - 2000]. My thinking being that even a good engine of that vintage will have some wear so a slightly more viscous oil will fill those widening tolerances better. I know Toyota recommends 5W/40. But that would be from factory fresh and seems very thin to me, for a 20 year old engine. Would 10W/40 be about right as a compromise?
Then there's the old Dino vs Semi vs Synth debate. I was running a quality German 100% mineral oil in my VW van, as consensus in VW land [or as near consensus as you can get on these things] was that the old VW diesel engines were built to run on dino oil, so use what VW intended. Thing is, I have two unopened 5l cans of that left. So I'm thinking it wouldn't do any harm to use them for my first oil change on the Cruiser --almost like a flush and then, after a couple of thousand miles, change again for a fully synth. Thoughts?
OIL FILTER --any special requirements there? Again, coming from VW land, the recommended thing was to use a particular Mann filter which had an internal non-return valve which made for better lubrication at startup by stopping the oil draining out of the filter. Any similar advice in LC land?
COOLANT --What recommendations there? I've got a 5l pot of Prestone [again left over from my VW days] which I keep for emergency coolant top ups. It's marketed as being suitable to mix with any other types; red, blue, etc. Presuming it'll be fine for a similar purpose in the LC. But what are the recommendations for the main coolant to use when doing a complete flush?
TRANSMISSION OIL --Auto box all new to me. So what are people using for that?
DIFF OIL / TRANSFER BOX --What are people using there?
That should cover most of the 'stuff' that people get evangelical about. With other things like posh diesel vs. supermarket vs. supermarket + additives, I shall carry over my existing prejudices from previous van ownership.
FREON -- [I presume that's what it is]. My AirCon's not working. So I presume I need it re-gassed. However, this also raises the question as to whether it's not working now because it has a leak. Is there any way to test this without actually refilling it. Or do you just find out by getting it re-gassed and then listening to your money hissing away into the atmosphere?
