Front brake disc splash guards / dust shields

[MisterCruiser]

I tried searching but there doesn't seem to be many threads on replacing these. I know the rears are a big job, a job I've looked into before but have avoided doing so far but only a matter of time now too.

Anyway, regards the fronts, I've had the front wheel off and the first set of bolts I'll have to undo are very rusty looking, I think I'm gonna need heat on them, but also there doesn't seem to be any room for a ratchet and socket, and I don't think a spanner will get them undone without a lot of heat.

But how much stripping down is involved to replace the front dust guards, if I get them first set of bolts out, what's next, do I have to mess with the wheel bearing or press stuff out, etc,, I have a press so ok on that aspect, but just trying to get an idea of what I'm letting myself in for.

Also, what else should I replace / renew when in there, dust seals, etc,,, as if I'm gonna do it I want to buy everything beforehand, already have the splash guards.

Any pics / guide would be great

 

[diggerdave]

One of mine was very rusty and I removed it with a hammer. No apparent ill effects! And that was about 50,000 miles ago...

Sorry, not helpful.

 

[Shayne]

I took the whole front end apart , suspension arms , drive shafts the lot with no idea what i was doing but it was very straight forward . Drilling out the centre of rusty bolts will likely heat them more than anything else will and you can pick them out when theres not much more than thread left .

 

[MisterCruiser]

Mines failing the DOE / MOT test, I got it to pass previous years as tester let me cut the jagged rusty bits off to leave a straight edge but there's not much left due to more rust and crumbling so that won't work this year.

Struggling to find a guide, seems to be nothing at all on youtube.

 

[Shayne]

Does this help at all ?

 

[MisterCruiser]

Does this help at all ?

View attachment 164069

Yes, it does help, good to see the front and rear of the hub and assembly. Cheers!

I also found the following guide in the 120 series of this forum, which is very helpful, I can see exactly what I have to remove. Not too much stripping, just want to check my Pdf workshop manual to try find what seals _ gaskets are needed so I can have them bought beforehand.

Can anyone confirm if the 120 series is the same as the 90 series Colorado regarding the front wheel bearing / hub assembly's?

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/com...ring-replacement-an-illustrated-guide.127745/

 

[Shayne]

At a glance assembly wise its all the same .

If i am right in thinking you only want to fit new dust guards it seems very unlikely to me you will have to tear things down that much .

Undo the hub nut

and the 4 bolts for the lower ball joint and you can pull it off the shaft swinging it about 90 degrees for access . You might have to unbolt the caliper too , i can't remember but again its all just nuts and bolts so you should have no worries about running into anything complicated

 

[diggerdave]

Useful parts diagrams here:

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu...ssis/4705_front-disc-brake-caliper-dust-cover

 

[MisterCruiser]

Useful parts diagrams here:

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu...ssis/4705_front-disc-brake-caliper-dust-cover

Thanks, would you happen to have the parts diagram for the hub / bearing piece, I believe there are some seals / gaskets around it that I'd like to get a part no. for or even a pic of the seals i need in a parts diagram for starters.

 

[diggerdave]

This?
http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu...0_003_/powertrain-chassis/4303_front-axle-hub

You should explore the site a little and make sure it's right for your car in case they're different - these are for my 3 door Colorado (just what I have bookmarked)

 

[Shayne]

Seals and gaskets left me guessing to but then i realized if you don't know the wheel bearing and housing is sold as one piece you probably would be looking for some kind of seal . I guess you could slap some instant gasket here and there while you reassemble .

 

[Steve H]

If I remember you will have to press out the wheel bearing to remove/replace the dust shield. Or cut the shield at the thin part where it goes round the bearing and see if you could slide it in maybe.

 

[MisterCruiser]

If I remember you will have to press out the wheel bearing to remove/replace the dust shield. Or cut the shield at the thin part where it goes round the bearing and see if you could slide it in maybe.

As far as I can make out from the guide I linked in previous post above, it seems I don't need to press out the wheel bearing. I sure hope I don't as it seems a bit extreme going to that level of dismantling to replace a splash guard. Guess I'll find out for sure soon enough

 

[laszlo szucs]

very useful reading. what i would like to do is change all joints and all suspension parts (completely everything) front wheels and rear at once. so i don't have to worry or do double work later time.

is anyone can help me with a list what i need? (i new to this. new to Colorado 90. and not a service man.) THANKS

 

[MisterCruiser]

Ok, typical, my 90 series Colorado isn't the same wheel bearing design as the 120 series in the guide I posted in my previous posts. The 120 hub/bearing is bolted onto the knuckle,,,, mine is pressed together it seems.

There's pics below of my progress so far but I've a question, in my pic where I drew the red line, does the bearing separate at which end of my red line? Can I go ahead and use a pullers between the driveshaft stub end and on the hub flange at the point of my red line nearest the wheel side?

I'm assuming the bearing is going to be wrecked after it's removal? Am I right in assuming the 1 of the bearing races will be left stuck on the hub shaft after removal like what typically happens meaning the old bearing will be goosed in this procedure?

 

[John Davies]

Have a look at page 182 in the attached pdf - the bearing should stay in place as it is held in place with a snap ring

 

[Steve H]

When I replaced my front bearings the lock ring didn't hold the bearing in place just distorted out of shape and out of the groove it was sat in. Both of my bearings didn't leave a race on the hub shaft but if it does they can be cut of with an angle grinder and a chisel. Have done this a few times when working on cars with my father in law. By the way, my bearings both needed a force of 25 tons psi to get them moving and they go with a bang when they start moving.

 

[MisterCruiser]

Cheers for the replies.

In the parts diagram, what's this about 2 different types of hubs? I've circled the reference in red. "With Free Wheel Hub" and "Without Free Wheel Hub". Whats a free wheel hub and a non free wheel hub can someone inform me please. Lol

Also, I got the knuckle off there tonight, got the oil seal off and tried to go about pressing out the hub, but I can't get the hub supported properly in my press because of the lack of a decent support point on 1 side of the hub. I notice in the manual they use a puller tool to remove the hub and don't actually press it out, I'm gonna read up on the manual now to see the procedure they use to go about it. Might sound a bit rough, but could I just hammer the hub out of the bearing with same big socket I was going to press it out with, or would it damage the hub shaft face?

I'm not sure how to remove the abs toothed ring either!

Here's a pic of how I was trying to mount it in my press, but not working.

 

[MisterCruiser]

Here's the pic in the manual of them removing the hub shaft from the wheel bearing in the knuckle, using a pullers, I think I'll try my pullers tool tomorrow. The manual is a bit confusing, although I've figured out from it that mine is the "Without Free Wheel" hub type, though I'm still not 100% sure what they difference is between them.

It's hard to see the orde rof events from the manual regarding the Without free wheel hub type, is remove oil seal, remove hub, then remove the abs ring, is there a spacer that needs to e pressed out? Once all that's removed, then you can press out the wheel bearing?

EDIT: Ok think I figured it out, remove hub with pullers and then remove a bearing spacer and the abs ring. Then remove the snap ring and then press out the wheel bearing. I'm guessing the bearing spacer and abs ring just pull out by hand after the hub is removed from the bearing, is this correct?

 

[MisterCruiser]

Didn't get time to tackle this today, will be at it tomorrow, not sure if my standard 3 legged pullers will work, might have to improvise with it. The Toyota pullers tool in the pic I posted above looks more than just a standard pullers.

If any members on here have pulled the hub off before using a pullers tool, feel free to tell me your method, how you pressed the tool in the centre of the hub, etc......