Gearbox rebuilt

[Allchin]

Completed the gearbox rebuild and its back in the truck. All seems well with the box, although I have only driven it on my driveway. It probably will not be on the road until next year, as I am starting to build an extension to the garage for the truck and will take all summer.


I found nothing wrong with the gearbox and I followed all the measurements indicated by the WSM and all the checks were well within specification. The 1[SUP]st[/SUP] and 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] syncro's showed no signs of wear and looked exactly like the new ones I had ordered.






The one thing I did find was a small chunk of metal from the 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] gear. The gap was still correct for the slider, so it did not interfere with the operation. Not sure how long its been like this but I decided to leave it as it is.



I actually found the broken tooth inside the case.




This is as far as I could go in dismantling as I found that my largest gear separator wasn't large enough. I ordered a 105-150mm sealey as my other ones were good quality.





While I was waiting for the delivery of the separator, I refurbish the starter motor that failed during our trip. I replaced them with a repair kit I had previously bought on ebay for around £15. The bearing were re-greased and now had a good starter motor. The one that was fitted was also given the same treatment.





The new separator in action.



I was quite concerned, that if the separator twisted when it came under pressure it could damage part of the gear. I made sure there was an air gap between the separator and the gear. As it turn out it did not noticeably move.





The 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] gear just cleared the frame on my press by a couple of mm.







I was asked what I thought of the 'gearbox sticky' thread in regards to helping with the stripping and re-building of the gearbox. My thoughts were, it was very good and went hand in hand with the WSM, the photos greatly helped. Also some of the tips and hints that were not mentioned in the WSM. Areas of improvement would be a more detailed list of the tools and sizes needed, also the approx size of the spaces and tubes. For pressing on the gears and bearing for the output shaft, I had to raid a expensive bass tube with 5mm walls from the clock making supplies, had I known the required size I would have made one out of steel before stripping the box.


If I was doing again I would also order all the available sizes for each of the snap links to replace from Amayama, they list them around $1 each.


List of jobs done so far:

1. 170ltr Aux. leaky fuel tank repairs, along with a tank sealer.
   
2. Rear diff rebuilt with new bearings
   
3. Both rear hubs rebuilt and re-greased
   
4. Front and Rear propshaft rebuilt including sliding yokes( replacing the yokes vastly improved the transmission slack and hopefully should be quieter when on dirt roads)
   
5. Gearbox rebuilt with all new bearings
   
6. The clutch friction disc was ok but the diaphragm springs were wear was out of spec. so I replaced the clutch cover with the original one that came with the vehicle as it was in much better condition. I also fitted a new thrust release bearing and crankshaft oil seal.
   
7. Front diff rebuilt all bearings ok. Replaced 3 broken studs.
   
8. Welded a crack in a weld on the front axle, that had been weeping oil for the last 8 months. This was caused by bracket on the axle that holds the leading arm, fracturing, causing the front axle to move about and the broken part of the bracket that was still fastened to the leading arm kept on ramming the weld on the axle. Now you would have thought I would have felt change in handling with this problem but I didn't. The only thing I noticed was when braking the front drivers side dipped a little. I came across it during one of my under the truck inspections, it would have been after 2-3 inspections before I notice it!
   
9. Total swivel hub rebuild including changing the bearings. Both CV's were changed (Milners,lasted 120k) along with the drive flange(starting to get too much movement). Also the 'speedsleeve' I used to repair the groove on the drive shaft caused by the oil seal had to be replaced (lasted 85k)
   
10. Injection pump rebuilt (110k since last rebuild). This time I had the injection nozzles refurbished.
    
11. Stripped the winch to check the bearing and grease where necessary. (been across a lot off deep rivers)

I think that will do for now.


Now where's my builder hat.

Stephen

PS.

I had to push the truck( with help) into the garage as it would not start anymore. I was under the impression that there was air in the system and the injection pump was leaking. When I came around to starting it again after 4 months 5 days a week it still wouldn't start! Eventually I found it was a blown fuse for the Fuel cut off valve!

 

[StarCruiser]

Not sure if I've mentioned to you but after seeing that you've put new contacts in the starter solenoid, did you put the three screws back in the solenoid cover with low strength loctite? Mine (without loctite) worked loose and fell out after I did the same job! The resultant short circuit caused by the plunger dropping partly out caught fire.

Looks like you've been busy. Well done. Does the gearbox perform any differently? I remember having the gearbox out of my Shogun and putting a new synchro in to help it get into gear. Made no difference whatsoever.

 

[frank rabbets]

Points taken re the gearbox rebuild sticky.

That's the forth chip I've seen off that gearwheel. All identical and all from exactly the same position on the wheel. The contact part on that particular dog was not cut far enough round so it took most of the strain rather than all the dogs sharing the strain equally. I expect they are all the same. Mine came out when I drained the oil. It won't have any effect at all on the working or life of the gearbox.

 

[Allchin]

Not sure if I've mentioned to you but after seeing that you've put new contacts in the starter solenoid, did you put the three screws back in the solenoid cover with low strength loctite? Mine (without loctite) worked loose and fell out after I did the same job! The resultant short circuit caused by the plunger dropping partly out caught fire.

Looks like you've been busy. Well done. Does the gearbox perform any differently? I remember having the gearbox out of my Shogun and putting a new synchro in to help it get into gear. Made no difference whatsoever.

Hi StarCruiser,
No, I have not used any Loctite, maybe I should re-visit and put some on them.

The car has not left the driveway. I have only driven it up and down the drive. It is now under wraps for waiting for the garage extention for completion at the end of the year. I guess that as I did not find anything wrong then I will probably not notice any diffrence!

 

[Allchin]

Points taken re the gearbox rebuild sticky.

That's the forth chip I've seen off that gearwheel. All identical and all from exactly the same position on the wheel. The contact part on that particular dog was not cut far enough round so it took most of the strain rather than all the dogs sharing the strain equally. I expect they are all the same. Mine came out when I drained the oil. It won't have any effect at all on the working or life of the gearbox.

Hi Frank,

Thats interesting, I wounder how many gearboxs it happend to? many thousands?

 

[StarCruiser]

Hi StarCruiser,
No, I have not used any Loctite, maybe I should re-visit and put some on them.

After what happened to me, I wouldn't think twice. You may even be able to do it in situ one at a time. Peace of mind and all that.