How to get Coax into the vehicle?

[Gary Stockton]

Topic title says it all really. I want to leave the antenna mounts permanently fitted to the winch bumper and so want to pull the coax into the vehicle - without going via the firewall as those grommets are pretty much used up. Any suggestions??


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[Chas]

Probably wrong, but I'd just cut another hole in the firewall and put a grommet in.

 

[Gary Stockton]

Thought of that but the 120 seems to have a double-skinned firewall so not as easy as I thought. And not a lot of room there I must say. I'll have a decking at the floor area over the weekend. Problem is I need to pull CB and VHF coax ...


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[Chas]

How does the coax for the radio get from the wing aerial to the inside of the cab? maybe you could use that cable to pull through with a draw wire to pull the radio cable back again

 

[Gary Stockton]

I external antenna on the 120 - it's built into the glass - I think the windscreen but could be wrong



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[TonyP]

I external antenna on the 120 - it's built into the glass - I think the windscreen but could be wrong

Close, its in the near side last glass window. Sorry cant answer your coax question though

 

[Gary Stockton]

Yep thought so. Sorry - brain fart on the windscreen


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[fridayman]

On the 90 the cable enters the cabin from the inside of the wing into the drivers foot well.

 

[Trevor]

How about running it underneath the bulkhead, along the chassis rail and coming up through the floor?

 

[Crispin]

As Trevor said, there are a ton of grommets waiting for you in the floor. Under the boot mat are some as well as the transmission tunnel where the handbrake cable comes in. I know this one because it leaks Sailsbury plain mud

 

[Gary Stockton]

Found a grommet under the carpet just above the chassis rails on the drivers side - in through there, job done. Had to cut the connector off otherwise I'd have a huge hole, so just need to replace that and I'm sorted. Same on pax side for CB antenna. Sealed up the slits in the grommets with some automotive silicone sealant, so should stay watertight.

And while I was under there I discovered the reason for an irritating rattle (no, not the one in my head - still trying to sort that out!) - the heat-shield above the exhaust has worn a hole around one of the mounting bolts, so that will need replaced by Mr T - no way could I shift the M10 flange nut that holds it all on

And a second rattle source located - broken clip at bottom right holding the outer cladding to the door - now to see if I can order one of those

 

[TonyP]

And while I was under there I discovered the reason for an irritating rattle (no, not the one in my head - still trying to sort that out!) - the heat-shield above the exhaust has worn a hole around one of the mounting bolts, so that will need replaced by Mr T - no way could I shift the M10 flange nut that holds it all on

Had the same problem on my 120, managed to get the bolt off and used a large washer to fix it. Have to say quite a crap design by Mr T on that bit....

 

[Crispin]

And a second rattle source located - broken clip at bottom right holding the outer cladding to the door - now to see if I can order one of those

Speak to your local Mr-T. I've replaces those a number of times. They about 40p a clip. Be very careful though, you have to put the clip into the plastic first and then clip into the door. It will never go the other way round.
Also, no option of removing it without breaking the clips. You might as well order a whole set (3 different types), rip the panel off and redo them all.
My passenger side has the same issue It'll be the third time

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

couldn't you just rip the panel off and leave it off

 

[Gary Stockton]

You'd need to plug the holes but it can be done - will look like the 'TX' then, as sold to NATO and the UN

 

[Crispin]

The LC2 (met one chap at Sailsbury with a red one) does not any of the plastic trim. Made it look a bit skinny

 

[Graham]

And while I was under there I discovered the reason for an irritating rattle (no, not the one in my head - still trying to sort that out!) - the heat-shield above the exhaust has worn a hole around one of the mounting bolts, so that will need replaced by Mr T - no way could I shift the M10 flange nut that holds it all on

Had the same problem on my 120, managed to get the bolt off and used a large washer to fix it. Have to say quite a crap design by Mr T on that bit....

.
Also ^^^^^^^

The couple of securing 10mm hex bolts shifted ok, I just put bigger washers on, now good and tight.

Gra.