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Land cruiser 3 litre diesel 2007 5 door 185K miles


New Member
Dec 3, 2022
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I have had land cruisers since 1995 and my latest which I believed was bullet proof, I have had since 30 K miles. The other day my car went into limp mode and the engine oil light came on. I was going slow a few miles from home. Restarted and oil light went out and pulled into a layby. Checked oil level and spot on, no leaks. Got the truck home by RAC cover. Undid the filter and kicked car over and had oil flow and immediate shut down had rags over oil filter base.
My assumption was faulty oil sensor, I had recently changed my oil 5 weeks previously using a semi synthetic oil 10 / 40 weight and I had used a flushing agent (recommended). I had previously used a flushing agent the oil change before. I try to keep oil changes to around 6K. In the past I had used slick 50. Never ever had a problem.
So fitted new oil sensor and started up and all well until 5 mins into running oil light came on. Now starting to worry as my last Landcruiser had done 285,000 miles and never an issue. So, I decided to take of the small sump and inspect the oil pump strainer. It was blocked with carbon deposits; the sump has a lip around the oil plug which is raised about 6 mm so never fully drains. We have flushed oil through 3 times so the engine was actually clean. Just cleaned up and ready to fill for the 4th time and I feel I need a heavier oil (any suggestions). There was some white metal in the bottom of the sump which was an expectation after 185,000 miles of hard work (very fine) and it would never have drained out due to the lip. The sump took 20 mins to remove and if you had an endoscope you would be able to pop through oil plug hole and check the gauze.
I believe the flushing has loosened off the carbon deposits, and I think an oil with detergent additives may be the way to go. The engine has not been noisy, but I can only hope that there is no other damage, however I will keep all informed and send some pictures.
Common problem on the 120's I think - need to check the oil pickup at every oil change.

Whats the story with injectors on this one?
I have one injector that has given me fuel knock when engine cold and drops off when warm. I add a capful of mineral 2 stroke oil sometimes and this generally gets rid of the knock, also when going for the MOT drop some good cleaner in the fuel filter. Otherwise, engine has plenty of power. Still looking to put a good oil in though.
No injectors or seats ever changed. Just a note to say the internals of the engine now look very clean after all the oil changes. I am away from the vehicle and will be fitting the cleaned oil pan filter / suction and sump and then starting back up. I would be interested in the comment on the EGR and what this may or may not incur and any fix?
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EGR recirculates exhaust which is essentially burnt oil , carbon , soot , which sticks to any surface . Stands to reason that some of it will settle in the sump .
As you can see from the picture the suction filter was really dirty, please do not be miss led that the shiny bits are white metal, as I had a really strong head torch and it was mostly carbon grit that the light was reflecting off.


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That looks well choked, it's a wonder any oil was being circulated.
The gauze on the strainer should be clearly seen through the sump drain plug if clean.
Carbon and other sludge can be caused by injector blow by, which is why Karl asked the questions about injectors and seals etc.
If you are going to clean your egr, do the throttle body/inlet manifold at the same time.
For more information on the injector/seals problems that dog the 120, that have on occasions wrecked engines, do a search or trawl back through the threads, they are well documented.
Fully understood and I know the gauze should not have been this dirty, so there is another factor and I would believe that the bad injector as you pointed out may well be a culprit. The advice on the EGR cleaning will be done. This is my workhorse for my trailer business and do not want to spend having an engine overhaul. I believe we may have got away with it but I will know in the next 36 hours. The rest of the Landcruiser is top notch. Will go back through the threads also again thanks
A long time ago there was a recall against injector seals for this VIN range

KDJ125 JTE AZ29J# 00019035-00050831 June,2004 Through October,2007
KDJ120 JTE BZ29J# 00049705-00160767 June,2004 Through October,2007

If you're in the range and know the seals haven't been done, be a good idea to do them, or keep a very close eye on that pickup gauze.
Well the engine unfortunately is wrecked. These engines should have better monitoring on oil pressure in my opinion. A stepped oil pressure sensor would have saved the engine. There have been many frequent oil changes, but this has caught me out and a simple shining the light through the oil drain plug would have shown me the issue. The damage had already been done with no oil light and running at load. Not sure what the pressure sensor is set at, but whatever I do now I would if I have another one of these engines have a pressure gauge teed into the engine.
Some research in my area has shown 3 120 Landcruisers have had rebuilds at 180 K. Funny enough when the engine was run up with clean strainer it sounded great and ran for 20 mins not missing a beat nice and warm, then idle dropped off suddenly and engine came to a halt and nearly impossible to turn over after and no bloody alarms.
Bash - sorry to hear about the engine :-( Totally agree that the oil pressure monitoring is basically no monitoring at all - bloody useless.

Did you confirm if your VIN was in the recall range above?

Hmmm... do you have a theory why it ran perfectly for 20 mins before it died?
Sorry to hear that Bash, a gut sinking feeling when it happens.
I had an idea there would be more to it after seeing the oil pick up/strainer, clogged up like that, but like yourself, was hoping it was not the end.
Now comes the real dilemma (and expense) of what to do next.
Someone on the other forum ended up with a wrecked engine, and although no cost is given on documented action, it must have cost a small fortune.
Thanks for update, and hope it's not too eye watering. Good luck.
We have a company called Lemar in Totnes great reputation for engine rebuilds. They are quoting around £1500 to grind crank etc, but then you need to look at doing pistons and fitting new rings and honing liner etc , then Turbo charger etc then cost of removal and refit. My other option is an automatic the same but 2 years older with a rebuilt Lemar engine. Really just need this type of the vehicle for my trailer business. I would recommend that everyone takes the sump off at max 150K and treat this the same as doing your cam belt. I feel my theory for it running for 20 mins there was no loading of engine ie driving down the road and besides revving to 3K the engine had super clean oil and was very quiet, whereas before it was definitely noisier, and I suppose one had become used to the slow deterioration in the engine. Also, the fuel knock had disappeared with the new high oil pressure, so this could have been either a tappet knock ( gone with oil pressure increase) or coincidence.
Now the drama is what to do as this landcruiser is superb underneath and just had 3 new brake calipers / BF Goodrich etc What are they worth now?
Damn .

I just had a not so complicated 3 litre turbo diesel rebuilt for £3700 at mates rates which might give you a ballpark idea of the cost .

Personal opinion but I'd be looking at if i could fit an earlier/better 3l cruiser engine ie one from a 90 series be it 1KZ or D4D .

Australian 120's used these engines which makes me think it might be possible ?
You will also need to factor in the cost of new injectors and the bits that go with them.