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LC120 durability

Hashmat

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Hi. I am new to the forum and also (possibly) soon a land cruiser owner. I live in Norway and after doing some research I have concluded that the most common land cruiser here in Norway is the LC120 (most of these having 173 HP, 3-liter diesel engines. Engine code 1KDFTV). I would really appreciate if you could answer a couple of questions for me:
  • Is the LC120 as durable as the LC100? Are they built on the same durable platform? Because, I have read on multiple places that the LC120 is the “little brother” of LC100. Not sure what that even means..
  • Will the LC120 last 400 000 Km (248 548.5 miles) as I have read LC100’s does. Of course, with the proper maintenance. I would be using the vehicle as my daily car but also as my touring car. Not doing any intentionally off-roading.
I am considering an LC120 2008 model: Toyota Land Cruiser - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club] (text is in Norwegian).
 

GeekOKent

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Little brother ... Because, It's smaller than the 100.

I have an lc5 2005 that's done about 150k, 65k of that in my ownership. Haven't had to do much more than usual maintenance work.

Tech wise, there is a fair bit of electrics in both the 100 and 120.

The 120 is also marginally better on the emissions side of things.
 

GeekOKent

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Just had a look at your link. That looks nice, fairly clean. Make sure you look under it as well, and take a good look at the service history. If it's been looked after and has had all the work done at the right time it should be a good runner.
 

TonyP

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They are relatively reliable. I have had a 2005 120 LC4 since new, and it's been fine. Service history, injectors normally need replacing around 120k -140k miles, so look to see if that has been done, typically will be noisy on cold start and then go quiet.

the 100 series is a nicer place to be in my opinion, and that is what I wanted, but funds would not allow at the time.

The one you linked too looks good, drivers seat does not have much wear either, so worth a look, but as GOK says, check underneath for rust
 

Hashmat

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Little brother ... Because, It's smaller than the 100.

I have an lc5 2005 that's done about 150k, 65k of that in my ownership. Haven't had to do much more than usual maintenance work.

Tech wise, there is a fair bit of electrics in both the 100 and 120.

The 120 is also marginally better on the emissions side of things.

Thanks for the response @GeekOKent. After watching all those nice american lc100 youtube videos I convised myself that it must be a LC100 I want. Thought I could buy a “cheep” LC100 from early 2000 with high milage and it will still serve me for many years to come. Unfortunately, in Norway high power vehicle (200+ HP) are taxed heavily and are extremely expensive, on top of the fact that land cruisers are expensive from the get-go. So even LC100’s from early 2000 are too expensive, for me at least. But the little brother LC120 (Prada) are more reasonably priced.

Is the build quality of the lc120 the same as lc100?

I will for sure have a look under the car and the service history. Thanks for the advice buddy.
 

Hashmat

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Hi TonyP. I totaly agree that the 100 series are nicer. I would have wanted the same. Maybe one day!

Anyway, thanks for the info about the injectors. I see from the description (the link I sent) that the guy selling the car got them changed recently. Did cost him 30000 Kr (around 2591 British pound). That is EXPENCIVE, or?
 
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TonyP

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That is quite expensive, but perhaps he had them done by main dealer. Folk have them done in the UK for around £1k GBP, but prob from a good independent as opposed to Toyota.
 

Juddian

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As above, rust is the killer of these vehicles, if you can find one with a solid chassis suspension and rear axle and keep it that way then these are brilliant vehicles that can last for many years and cover high mileages.
Note the vehicle in the link appears to be on aftermarket wheels, that might be for looks (though personally the OE wheels when in good nick look superb) but one wonders if they got so corroded they were scrapped, which would make me want even more to see underneath.
The bodies on these are resilient to corrosion, except for the inner sills underneath between the chassis and side steps, these get heavy battering from road grit etc and can if left untreated corrode through so as well as the chassis and rear axle etc give those inner sills a good look over.

Obviously you'll maintain the engine well (you can see the oil pick up strainer on the Diesel through the oil drain hole) and if you look after the rest of the drivetrain with fresh oils every now and again, and maintain the brakes meticulously (these vehicles need regular brake cleaning/lubing) then they are in my opinion mechanically one of the best long term bets out there.

I looked at a few 100's before buying my 120, again underbody corrosion is an issue, they are not as heavily made or as simple as the 80 series, or 70 come to that, and i personally find the fairly narrow 120 a good package overall whilst still a comfortable and roomy place to be, se have dogs and the side hinged door of the 120 suits us better anyway.
If i could have found a 100 in as good condition as my 120 i would have bought it, unfortunately from what i've seen they seem to suffer more neglect from first owners than 120's, and the good examples fetch serious money.

The thing with those American videos is they are mostly in warm states which don't use thousands of tons of road salt, without seeing salt these LC's will last forever, its salt that kills them, have a look at some videos of cars that live in areas that see heavy winter road salting, the corrosion underneath will shock you, the chassis on Tacomas and Tundras riddled in rust in only a few years.

I'd also have another Hilux 3.0 litre auto if the right one came along, VED in Britain is more favourable to commercial vehicles.
 
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SteveJB

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Have you thought about importing a vehicle from Denmark Holland or any country that is LHD or could you use RHD import from Japan without getting hammered on taxes and insurance there are a few 90 series owners that can tell you what to look out for
 

Hashmat

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@Juddian:
For sure we use a lot of salt on the roads here. I am considering paying for a NAF test. NAF is our Norwegian Automobile Association. You can pay them a certain amout and they will look over the car and then tell you if the price is reasonable based on ther findings. Normally the sales person don't mind having this done. Specially if the buyer (me) is paying for it.

I see that car has been owned previously by 3 people. Is that a bad sign? I don’t think it has to be..
Same in Norway. VED here is a lot more favorable towards commercial cars. And also, there is a quota for how many times family can travel in the vehicle.


@SteveJB:
That is something to consider for sure. I assume that the very moment the car crosses our border I will have to pay taxes for it. But the base price could be lower so I would end paying much less. Yeah, I could do a search on some online marketplaces for Denmark.
 

Juddian

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I don't know how in depth that NAF inspection will be, the very first place you look on one of these is underneath (does the NAF test include full underbody inspection with photographs?), but that goes for most vehicles with ladder chassis, many of us have driven considerable distances to view LC's described as mint, after only 2 minutes underneath looking with horror we've been on the way back home without even bothering to look inside or open the bonnet.

If a lot of salt is used where the car lives and the previous owners haven't taken steps to protect the underside you might be shocked at how bad the chassis and rear axle could be.

The car in the link i'd be wanting to know more about, ie what else has been done to it apart from the bolt on tat (bonnet and rear bumper mods) and aftermarket wheels (why were they needed) and twin exhausts (cat still in place?), one wonders what else has been added or changed that might not be ideal.
It does look in good condition overall to be fair, interior and exterior, but we've all seen otherwise clean LC's that are in poor condition underneath and may not have been serviced well enough.
 

toolsplus

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As above, rust is the killer of these vehicles, if you can find one with a solid chassis suspension and rear axle and keep it that way then these are brilliant vehicles that can last for many years and cover high mileages.
Note the vehicle in the link appears to be on aftermarket wheels, that might be for looks (though personally the OE wheels when in good nick look superb) but one wonders if they got so corroded they were scrapped, which would make me want even more to see underneath.
The bodies on these are resilient to corrosion, except for the inner sills underneath between the chassis and side steps, these get heavy battering from road grit etc and can if left untreated corrode through so as well as the chassis and rear axle etc give those inner sills a good look over.

Obviously you'll maintain the engine well (you can see the oil pick up strainer on the Diesel through the oil drain hole) and if you look after the rest of the drivetrain with fresh oils every now and again, and maintain the brakes meticulously (these vehicles need regular brake cleaning/lubing) then they are in my opinion mechanically one of the best long term bets out there.

I looked at a few 100's before buying my 120, again underbody corrosion is an issue, they are not as heavily made or as simple as the 80 series, or 70 come to that, and i personally find the fairly narrow 120 a good package overall whilst still a comfortable and roomy place to be, se have dogs and the side hinged door of the 120 suits us better anyway.
If i could have found a 100 in as good condition as my 120 i would have bought it, unfortunately from what i've seen they seem to suffer more neglect from first owners than 120's, and the good examples fetch serious money.

The thing with those American videos is they are mostly in warm states which don't use thousands of tons of road salt, without seeing salt these LC's will last forever, its salt that kills them, have a look at some videos of cars that live in areas that see heavy winter road salting, the corrosion underneath will shock you, the chassis on Tacomas and Tundras riddled in rust in only a few years.

I'd also have another Hilux 3.0 litre auto if the right one came along, VED in Britain is more favourable to commercial vehicles.
Well written that man.
You wrote it so well I don't have to add anything and now I can walk the dogs with my 120 and perfect back door for dog owners.
 

Juddian

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Funny you should say that Toolsplus, we're about to take the dogs out in the 120, only trouble is being two lunatic spaniels and one viszla they tend to bring the muck and mud into the back with them afterwards.

Whilst a Hilux is the obvious answer for dogs, if we do go back to a pick up i'll have to make up some form of foldable step or ramp bolted to the tailgate so its a bit easier for them getting up, the smallest cocker (mother of the other other, male, much bigger/stronger) struggles enough with the 120 (after the walk, before or if there was a raw lamb bone lurking she could scale an ice wall) and the viszla is 11 and whilst in excellent health isn't getting any younger...and i know that feeling well.
 
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GeekOKent

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You can get a rubber tray of sorts, about 2" deep on the sides, fits perfectly into the back of the 120, helps with the mud situation.

I have a ramp that the dog uses in the 120 and the 105, no way around that( he's a mastiff, so not exactly the most agile thing to start with )
 

toolsplus

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+1 on the oem Toyota tray,I bought it for carrying wood, along with the oem load gate
I didn't buy the 120 for dogs,but now it's their free taxi to the woods
1 year old German Shepherd and 8 year old Fox Terrier
that back door is perfect for doggy owners
 

Juddian

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Don't have a tray in the boot, but found a thick rubber floor cover cut to shape on the Bay, not a perfect fit but no complaints.
The trays tend to be plastic and the dogs can't grip so well on plastic, the spaniels stands on their hind legs peering out the back window going along so good grip is a must.

If anyone is thinking of buying a new dog guard or getting a better one thatn those universal things made out of cheese, thw ones made by Travall i can recommend wihtout reservation, have one in both cars, not cheap but strong and custom made for each vehicle design.
 

Tractionman

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Juddian, I have an aftermarket rubber tray with good raised edges, in the boot. £30ish.
It doesn't stink of rubber and is a good fit, and was recommended to me by Karl2000, after he bought one.
I've seen those plasticky ones, you are on about, that look shiny and are slippery. These are not like that at all, and although not carrying dogs, anything in the back doesn't slide about. Cheers
P.S. Are you still driving a M.A.N.?
 

Hashmat

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Hi guys. Thanks for all the replies. So I am stilling searching for a land cruiser. I have my eyes on this one (link below, it's a n LC120 from 2007/8). Can you have a look at the pictures and let me know what you think of the condition under the car. In my opinion it does not look so bad but my understanding of such things is limited. There are two pictures that are concerning me a bit. I believe I am seeing some oil leakage. Attaching those pictures here so you can have a look. I have added a red circle where I have spotted the leakage. If that is a leakage at all:

Link to the car: Toyota Land Cruiser - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

The owner just had it serviced from Toyota. He is mentioning that no remarks were made regarding any leakages. But I don’t’ know, Toyota maybe didn’t check under the car..

Do you know where I can get my hands on a service manual for LC120 (2007-2008) and also maybe LC150 (2010-? This for sure will help me to get an better understanding of what should have been services so far based on the milage.

Ps! I see that the owner has added some of the pictues twice. The picutes of the underside are toward the end.
 

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The areas you have circled are grease thrown off from the prop shaft and is a good sign , that means the props have been getting serviced , dry props = wear on the uni joints , under the 120 looks OK from the 2 pics you have shown , some rust is visible from just behind the side steps that is common on 120s it will need treating as soon as possible if you want to keep the 120 in good condition for many years to come , maybe more pics could show the rest of the underbelly to see if all is as good as the 2 pics .
 
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