LJ70 Steering Alignment

[Trevor]

Having recently bent my steering bars, I sourced a replacement set but needed to transfer the track rod ends off my old bars and have them put onto the replacement ones. The track rod ends were marked before removal and refitted back to those marks on the new bars so are in the same position.

I have now fitted them and have found that turning from centre position, it takes 1.5 turns to left lock and 1.25 turns to right lock. It is very obvious that the wheels are turned out much more on left lock than right lock. The steering arm connected to the steering box does move through the full range if I disconnect the ball joint to the steering bar.

I'm thinking that something else is bent on the nearside which is stopping the full movement, the rear steering arm behind the front axle is straight and I suspect it's the nearside steering arm (stamped L4) which connects to the top of the nearside hub. Also the front of the arm which connects to the ball joint looks very very close to the backing plate of the front disc.

Photos are below and wondering if some kind soul could compare against their working LJ70, as you look at the photos, the top right front nut out of the 4 appears to be bent over a bit but I'm not sure if that's normal.

Any advice humbly accepted and p**s taking will be taken like a man.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Those 4 nuts/studs locate the steering arm. The steering arm is located on the inside by the taper roller bearings that enable the vehicle to steer. Underneath the nuts are cone washers. These are similar, but bigger, than the ones on the hubs. I do not see how a nut could be canted over. You need to remove it and check the condition of the cone washer. Also check each nut for tightness. A full steering and suspension diagnostic check may be in order.

Roger

 

[Trevor]

Thanks Roger, once I've sorted this out I'll move onto the input you asked for with my UJ's and front hubs.

 

[Trevor]

I think I have found the problem, the replacement bar is 2.6cm longer than the original so I assume it came from a Mark II 70 rather than a Mark I. There is not enough adjustment on the track rod ends so I am considering cutting 1.3cm off each end of the bar. Any reason why not?

 

[Trevor]

Yes there is a reason why not, the cut would be all the excess off one end and threads for tie rod would be gone. Plan B, get the correct part.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

13mm is 1/2". This is not a lot. Check how much female thread is available. If OK carry on, the slits for tightening the threads together can easily be extended. Just remember that the clamp should end approx. 3mm from the end.

Roger

 

[Trevor]

El Burro lives , shortened the bar each end and adjusted the problem out with the track rod ends. Jobs a good un.