Newbie member saying hello n'stuff!

[Big Wigg]

Hi folks.
I thought it time to introduce myself. My name is Cameron, I live in central France and have a 2001 Landcruiser KDJ95 D4Dautomatic. I live in the middle of nowhere so working out and overcoming problems is an absolute must! I’ve been avoiding getting under the car for many years but as I will have to do all maintenance and repairs from now on, I confess to actually quite liking the challenge. I’ve been following other member’s escapades and tribulations and am very grateful for member’s posts, experiences and photos. From a mechanical view point I would describe myself as competent but rusty / unpractised for a very, very long time! I’ve just renovated all the brake calipers which I’ve never done before. I cleaned all the metal work with a needle scaler which did a fantastic job. Should have taken some photos. As time allows, I’m going to do all the underneath of the car as it’s clear that none of these things get better with age. I’m going to de-rust and paint/treat/copper slip/lubricate anything and everything believing prevention is better than bruised and bleeding knuckles and sheared off bolts! Any advice on products, dos and don’ts etc. is welcome
I have a few questions to which I have not found any definitive answers yet and apologise in advance if I have just not found the relevant threads.
Does the D4D engine have a timing belt or timing chain? I’m hoping not to have to do anything in this department!
Does the KDJ95 have a pollen / cabin filter? The chap who used to service it said he couldn’t find one but I’ve seen conflicting reports.
I want to get a workshop manual(s) or at least a book of exploded diagrams for engine and body. Does such a thing exist and if so where? I’ve seen the manuals from OZ but they do not cover the D4D engine. Any advice would be appreciated.
I will be following Chris’ advice re “Getting the best from your handbrake.” Nicely done Chris so thanks. But first I have to fix the N/S rear oil leak at the differential bit / wheel hub thingy interface which I’ve read about here. The handbrake shoes are caked! This is my first post but am willing to document my work if anyone is interested.
I’ve got the usual woes with the rear bumper lights; completely rusted up. Does anyone know if the complete light lens fixture comes with the metal thingy on the inside of the bumper? I was going to speak to Simon Holton as he’s had such great reviews; I’m sure he will know.
The truck is standard, but after a few unintended off road winter excursions, it needs some body TLC. I’m considering changing the front bumper assembly for the metal type used in Australia and seen on other member’s vehicles. Any advice?
Thant’s it for now.
Many thanks in advance. Hope to hear from someone soon.
Cameron

 

[froggy Steve]

Hi Cameron, welcome!
I'm a bit further down and to the right in the sunny Dordogne (currently experiencing a thunderstorm!) Mine is the earlier kzj 95. I have to admit to finding a realiable, local and resonably priced mechanic very difficult and am going to have to do more myself when I get the time! I have diff breathers to fit, thermostat to change, and like you, lots of rust to get rid of! Being a 2000 model, its had 13 years of English salted roads to contend with


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[Trevor]

Welcome, Milners Offroad and Roughtrax are good starting points for a lot of spares. I changed the rear bumper lights on 1KZT 90 series and the Milners ones didn't come with the metal bumper liner, had to be ground out but honestly the two fitting screws with nuts behind the bumper do a perfectly good job.

I can't offer any help on the D4D but my personal preference is to go for Genuine Toyota oil seals every time you need to change one. Karl Webster on this forum is another good man to speak to for second hand parts, knows his stuff and extremely helpful.

Any wheel bearing related work, you'll need a good garage with a good press. May be worth keeping an alternator and starter motor/starter motor refurb kit on the spares shelf too.

I'm sure you'll have lots of fun as you tackle each job.

 

[Chas]

Hi Cameron, and welcome to the forum, that's the best introductory post I've seen for a very long time, you seem to have it all in hand.

Any questions you have will surely be answered here, we have a fantastic amount of knowledge from many members who are most willing to share it.

Looking forward to seeing some pics (we like pics) of your Cruiser.

 

[Bob]

H Cameron, I can certainly answer one of your questions. The D4D has a timing belt, which from all reports is not a difficult job to change, due at 80,000 mile/130,000 km intervals. Though many recommend a bit sooner.

As for the pollen filter, I'm pretty sure there is not. The D4D is exactly the same as the older 3.0td with the exception of the engine and possibly clutch. All interior and ancillary parts are the same

 

[clivehorridge]

Hi Cameron, and welcome to the forum, that's the best introductory post I've seen for a very long time, you seem to have it all in hand.

Any questions you have will surely be answered here, we have a fantastic amount of knowledge from many members who are most willing to share it.

Looking forward to seeing some pics (we like pics) of your Cruiser.

Second all that Chas said above, you'll get any info you need here, sooner or later.

Welcome to paradise!

 

[Ecoman]

Hi and welcome aboard

 

[Big Wigg]

Hi Cameron, welcome!
I'm a bit further down and to the right in the sunny Dordogne (currently experiencing a thunderstorm!) Mine is the earlier kzj 95. I have to admit to finding a realiable, local and resonably priced mechanic very difficult and am going to have to do more myself when I get the time! I have diff breathers to fit, thermostat to change, and like you, lots of rust to get rid of! Being a 2000 model, its had 13 years of English salted roads to contend with


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Hi Froggy Steve.
We have exactly the same weather here. It's quite exciting!
Cameron

 

[Big Wigg]

Hi Trevor.
Thanks for the reply and advice re the rear lights. I'm going to have to cut the old ones off/out so will do as you advise with nuts.
This time though, the lights will be thoroughly coated in a bitumen / rubber coating to avoid the rust.
Cameron