No more vibration

[fridayman]

Yesterday I finally got round to replacing my rear UJ. With the rear wheels in the air and the car in neutral I couldn't feel any play in the UJ at all. There is some play in the diff i.e. if I turn the propshaft there is some play before the wheels turn - I'm not sure if this is a problem or not? Anyway, the UJ had no play at all. As I had the new part I decided to change it anyway. Getting it off was easy as, but then I pulled something in my forearm trying to whack the spider caps loose with my new 1 ton copper hammer - to those that need a copper hammer, size 4 might be a bit too big. After another few tries I couldn't hold the hammer any more. Bugger! This is the truck that is taking me to work on Monday morning. I'm rather embarrassed to admit that I had to ask my pregnant wife to do the rest of the hammering There was a lot of "Hit it harder honey. A bit harder. Harder! HARDER! You're doing a lovely job." I'm quite proud of her actually. After getting it all apart it only took a couple of minutes to put the new spider and caps back in again. Once it was all back together I noticed that by some miracle I had put it all together in the correct alignment without remembering to check first 5 minutes later the truck was ready to role. apart from getting the old spider out, it is actually a very easy job. And the result is that the vibration at 60-70mph is pretty much gone now, and the truck just feels smoother at all speeds. I am very pleased I decided to change it.

 

[Ecky Thump]

Well done ET and Mrs ET

I think I have a tired one that needs doing soon, don't think I will ask my missus to help though

 

[Paul]

Funny you should say that as i'm just back from Lincomb and there is definatly something wrong underneath, it turns out that the bearings in the viscous coupling have gone tits up but i'm sure there is something else but all seems tight, slight play in the uj's so will change them anyway. The vibration is a bit mysterious, can't seem to get the truck to do it on demand (coasting, in gear, overrun, a/c on or off etc) and is a bit random, feels like the vibration you would get from a wheel bearing but its not that.
Anyone know if its worth going genuine on the coupling? I will be on the UJ's, calling Ian R

 

[Andrew Prince]

Hi Paul,
I changed my output bearing in the t/case extension next to the VC when I replaced the leaking seal. The original bearing was fine but I got an OEM bearing from Ian just in case. Wasn't too expensive - Toy doesn't make it's own bearings so the "OEM" bearing is probably a Koyo. No reason why you shouldn't use an equivalent bearing from one of the other premium bearing manufacturers.

Cheers,

 

[Paul]

Ah, hang on sorry, i meant the vc for the cooling fan

I also have to do the seal as the 300ish miles has finished it off, do you mean the seal that is the classic failure making gav's bash plate all messy?

 

[Andrew Prince]

Ah, hang on sorry, i meant the vc for the cooling fan

I automatically assumed you meant the t/case!

I also have to do the seal as the 300ish miles has finished it off, do you mean the seal that is the classic failure making gav's bash plate all messy?

Yep, that's the culprit! You don't have to remove the bearing to replace the seal but you have to remove the same bits to do either job, so you may as well do both while you have it apart. You need proper snapring pliers and a steady hand for the job!

 

[Paul]

Already emailed Ian

if i can get under there soon i might do a how to guide, how do you get the bearing out once the snap ring is off?

Also, i presume there is a big nut holding the propshaft flange on once the prop is off, does that need torquing up again?

 

[Andrew Prince]

how do you get the bearing out once the snap ring is off?

It's a press fit but not too tight - you can tap it out quite easy and tap the new one in. It sits in a recess, so it's fairly obvious when the new one is seated properly.
EDIT: Just to clarify, you tap the bearing into the interior of the casing to remove, hence the need to remove the extension housing.

Also, i presume there is a big nut holding the propshaft flange on once the prop is off, does that need torquing up again?

Nope, no nut - the output flange/shaft is held in place by the bearing and VC, which is turn are located with some beefy snaprings. If there was a big nut, the job would be MUCH easier and wouldn't require the removal of the t/case extension housing to change the seal.

 

[Rob]

have a look here Paul http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=7063&hilit=transfer+case+seal

 

[Paul]

Ah ha, so the case has to come off.
When you refit the whole case extension is is just sealant or a gasket?

 

[Rob]

Sealant, its in the thread