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Ongoing auto box problems....no drive still

Paulmc

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Apr 14, 2021
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uk
Long story short, I bought a 2002 D4D auto with an iffy gearbox cheap. Was told by previous owner torque converter was gone. I drove it around for a while local & it was fine to get the fault & nothing happened. I then took it on a long run & after 70 miles isn’t & 1 hr of driving it started playing up. You could smell it had got hot & was losing drive. I limped it home pulling over every 15 miles or so to let it cool untill I made the 70 mile journey home.

I took it to a local gearbox specialist who said yes the box is worn out etc & needs a rebuilt which I agreed was the issue as I expected to have it rebuilt. It’s been in 1 month now & finally the box got rebuilt & fitted yesterday. I had also been down over the last weeks & seen the oil filter was rusty & the inside of the box was rusty which indicates it has had the coolant leaking in the box issue.

I called up this morning to ask if it was ready to be told “no as I’m not happy with it, still got the same issue losing drive but comes back once turned on & off” they asked me to pop down as they think it’s electrical.

Any ideas what might be the issue now as I don’t see many other issues for these accept coolant leaking in and screwing the box up?
 
Could it be having trouble priming with ATF? Has your man checked that the trans cooler in the base of the radiator is not holed or blocked? Has the rest of the system that isn’t in the auto box been checked/flushed and cleared of water? Has the torque converter been pre filled with ATF?
If the breather was disconnected or the truck drowned above the breather, that’s another route for water to get in.
Good luck with it. I’ve seen reports on here that suggest they can be a bit tricky to prime after flushing.
 
I reckon you paid the experts just to change the oil .

I'm not sure if the 1KD is the same as the 1KZ but its a known problem with auto's that because the radiator cools both transmission oil and coolant the clues of it rotting inside allowing both to mix generally go unnoticed until it presents as a severe problem .
 
You can test the electrical theory by unplugging the solenoids - without solenoids it's basically a (somewhat jarring) 3 speed manual with L as low, 2 as 2nd, and D as 4th.

I doubt it is electrical somehow from the description, sounds like a busted cooler especially if you found rust inside a trans. I do hope they got ALL the ATF out of the tranny and the converter when they did do the rebuild.
 
Got it back after a 4th time & they hadn’t even fitted the box properly, bolts missing, plugs hanging down, breather pipes not connected, bolts not tightened up. Also it was still sticking in 2nd gear when cold & they hadn’t filled it with enough oil, 1 litre short. I made sure that topped it up & spent hrs under the ramp making sure they did the job right. Seems ok now apart from my transfer lever is jammed in high range so I can’t use low range. Started another thread about it.
 
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Sound like they don't have a clue with these old school autos. I think you need to seek out an old school auto shop one where the guys aren't pi$$ing in the wind when the scan tool doesn't hold their hand Playmobil style.
 
Sound like they don't have a clue with these old school autos. I think you need to seek out an old school auto shop one where the guys aren't pi$$ing in the wind when the scan tool doesn't hold their hand Playmobil style.
Thing is the guy running the place is old school but still each time asked his guys to put the scanner on. I said each time you do that, it gives no codes what so ever so it’s a mechanical issue but they didn’t seem to listen. It was like banging my head against a wall!
 
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