Rear locker actuator removal

[chapel303]

Am I missing something or is the locker actuator held on by the x4 10mm bolts on the flat piece of metal that marries to the diff?

They are pretty hard to access and I’ve successfully stripped two which is a great start. Soaked them in the worlds allocation of WD40. Still getting nowhere, just spinning off now.

Neither my front or rear are working so I just want to get them off and attempt a rebuild before forking out.

 

[Towpack]

Yes, just 4 bolts after removing the cover. Plenty of tales of woe on here regarding removal of actuators that will crumble to dust at the slightest provocation. Being cast alloy they corrode readily, almost like a sacrificial anode, if not well protected. Their fragility just makes removal even more traumatic. I'd opt for very careful use of heat to get the bolts out.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

There's another bolt through the locking fork into the actuator rod that you have to remove. It's under the cover plate facing forwards with a ball switch in it that detects it being locked.

 

[uHu]

Yes, just 4 bolts after removing the cover. Plenty of tales of woe on here regarding removal of actuators that will crumble to dust at the slightest provocation. Being cast alloy they corrode readily, almost like a sacrificial anode, if not well protected. Their fragility just makes removal even more traumatic. I'd opt for very careful use of heat to get the bolts out.

^^This!
Adding: Diff housing of cast iron, actuator housing aluminium, motor with copper and carbon, and a steel housing -- All this makes up a great battery for driving the corrosion. Add som road salt to speed it up 10 times.
I keep mine soaked in fluid film - don't know if it helps, but it has lasted more than ten years now and that's longer than previous actuators.
Here's a few illustrations (from the 100 series FSM, but these parts are the same afaik)

 

[frank rabbets]

I claimed for a new rear act for my 100 due to corrosion. The wiring looked different to that on my 80.

 

[whereisgibson]

I rebuilt mine a few weekends ago. Pretty simple albeit fiddly, you'll need RTV sealant and grease to hand as well as a few fine tools for keeping commutator springs in place, a multimeter, and a nice to have is a bench PSU or 12v battery to test the motor works OK.

This pdf Repairing Differential E-Lockers - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club] , and this video were super helpful:

 

[chapel303]

Cheers for the help guys. I’ll update when and if I manage to get the bloody thing off.