Rear Wiper Issue on 105 Series LC with Barn Doors

[StanM]

Hi all, I'm trying to resolve an issue with my rear wipers on my YM2000 Land cruiser, 4.2 Diesel, Standard with Barn doors.

The issue I have is that the RH rear wiper isn't working but the LH rear and washers are working fine.

I have checked for power at the connector and found no power to the motor (the motor is OK, I swapped it to the other side and it works fine). I have checked all the fuses, wiring and connectors and they all appear to be OK with no obvious damage/faults that I could find. There is continuity from to the junction box to the motor. I have tested in accordance with the workshop manual and it says that the power for the RH side is supplied via the Controller and Junction Instruments part no: 82791-60021 which I have since replaced without success and cost $100. Am I missing something ? any ideas wold be appreciated.



YM2000 Land cruiser 4X4, 4.2 Diesel, Standard (barn doors)

Vin/Frame: JT711PJA507016991

Build: 2000/03

Model code: HZJ105R-GCMRSQ

Engine: 1HZ (4200CC DIESEL)

Grade: STD (STANDARD TYPE)

Trans: MTM (MANUAL TRANSMISSION)

Gear shift type: 5F (MTM, 5-SPEED FLOOR SHIFT)

Back door: SOB (SWING OUT BACK DOORs)

Color code: 056

Trim code: LK11

 

[clivehorridge]

Mmmm, I'm not going to be very helpful, but I had a similar problem on my 1995 Euro spec 80 HZJ (same barn/ambulance type back doors) and the guy that fixed it just said there was a bad connection on the controller.

Did you buy the controller New or s/h? I'd be inclined to re-check all the connections to and around it.

Some years previous, I'd had a bad loom burn-out to the rear doors, made a big mess of things behind the trim in the RH side rear quarter.

After that, I had all sorts of intermittent one wiper, then the other not working.

The burn out came when both were working even though they were not switched on

Wish you luck... sadly there's not many on this forum with detailed knowledge of this door configuration.

 

[uHu]

2 areas where I would concentrate 90 % of my effort :
Cable to the doors, the one that has to flex each time the door is opened and closed.
The plugs in the back doors. They are very prone to corrode, and get an invisible coating on the contact surfaces, or loose their spring tension. Even if you measure continuity with a multimeter, it might not work when trying to push a few Amps through.

 

[StanM]

Mmmm, I'm not going to be very helpful, but I had a similar problem on my 1995 Euro spec 80 HZJ (same barn/ambulance type back doors) and the guy that fixed it just said there was a bad connection on the controller.

Did you buy the controller New or s/h? I'd be inclined to re-check all the connections to and around it.

Some years previous, I'd had a bad loom burn-out to the rear doors, made a big mess of things behind the trim in the RH side rear quarter.

After that, I had all sorts of intermittent one wiper, then the other not working.

The burn out came when both were working even though they were not switched on

Wish you luck... sadly there's not many on this forum with detailed knowledge of this door configuration.

Hi Clive thanks for your input buddy I'll go back to the drawing board and go through all the connections again. I have the complete interior out of the vehicle as well as the dash and all the panels etc so all the wiring is exposed. I did by the the controller second hand which I know was risky ?

I'll let you know how I get on.

Thx again StanM

 

[StanM]

2 areas where I would concentrate 90 % of my effort :
Cable to the doors, the one that has to flex each time the door is opened and closed.
The plugs in the back doors. They are very prone to corrode, and get an invisible coating on the contact surfaces, or loose their spring tension. Even if you measure continuity with a multimeter, it might not work when trying to push a few Amps through.

Hi uHu, thx for this you might be on to something . I had a multi meter on it yesterday and I had continuity, but just to be sure I'll double check it and also check the connectors for the coating and spring tension and see how I go Fingers crossed, I'll report back as soon as I'm done. Cheers

 

[StanM]

SUCCESS!!! Thx for your help guys. After going back to the drawing board and following your suggestions I rechecked for continuity I found an open circuit in wire from the LH to RH side.

On further investigation I found that the "brain surgeon" who had previously fitted the tow-bar hacked into the RHR wiper wiring (as well as others) at the back of the car and left an open circuit to the RHR wiper and used feed it to power something else. Whoever did the job was very neat/tidy and had everything taped and cable tied very nicely so their workmanship looked good (never assume).

It took me a while to find because I had to strip back the insulation and coverings and finally revealed the mess they had made, please see the second pic you'll get the idea.

My next task is to investigate further to ensure that other circuits have not been effected e.g. the Hazard lights (not working either).

Lesson learnt and advice: "Rule No 1", always check to see if anything has been tampered with and that any aftermarket accessories that have been fitted have been correctly installed and they haven't taken the easy way by hacking into the loom or cutting wires.

Once again thx for you help guy's, very much appreciated.

StanM

 

[StarCruiser]

Looks like a right old mess. Well done finding it. First rule of troubleshooting is never assume/check everything starting with the basics. Second is never replace an item without proving it is faulty.

 

[clivehorridge]

Glad you've got this sorted Stan, well, in principle at least.

What you have is sadly par for the course on an "older" truck.

My 1995 80 has exactly the same types of "connections" as your photos show.

Mine literally caught fire and scared the sh!t out of me because it was -10C at the time, late at night in a remote location and with wife, 1 year old baby and 95 year old father-in-law on board.

I managed to extinguish the fire, and in total darkness cobble together emergency wires to the lights just to get us home.

A scary episode, in those circumstances, trust me.

 

[StanM]

Glad you've got this sorted Stan, well, in principle at least.

What you have is sadly par for the course on an "older" truck.

My 1995 80 has exactly the same types of "connections" as your photos show.

Mine literally caught fire and scared the sh!t out of me because it was -10C at the time, late at night in a remote location and with wife, 1 year old baby and 95 year old father-in-law on board.

I managed to extinguish the fire, and in total darkness cobble together emergency wires to the lights just to get us home.

A scary episode, in those circumstances, trust me.

Hi Clive, I can't imagine being faced with your situation it must have been terrifying. Well done on your injunuity and keeping the family safe

 

[StanM]

Looks like a right old mess. Well done finding it. First rule of troubleshooting is never assume/check everything starting with the basics. Second is never replace an item without proving it is faulty.

Yes it was quite frustrating but we live and learn! Happy days!