replacing swivel bearings

[Allchin]

Does anyone know what is the best way to follow the FWM instructions when changing the swivel bearing, without using the special tool for centering the swivel housing by using the top and bottom shims, or does everyone adjust the preload by the top shim only, after all the centre may only be 10thou or so out. But that might be why members find Milners oil seal doesnt last long as it cannot cope as well as the OME.

Stephen

 

[Chris]

There are only shims on the top. Adjustment has a range and I have found (having done three now) that using the original shims, it all goes back together OK. I disconnect the steering arms and use a pull scale to set the rotational load. I have spare shims in my kit but have never needed them. Once cleaned up and new bearings in, you will be amazed at how smooth it is. Use one of the old outer races and cut a slot through it. Put this on top of the new race so that you can tap it in with a hammer.

Chris

 

[Allchin]

Hi Chris,

I remenber seeing an exploded view showing shims top and bottom, but I cannot find it now. It was when I found this.... http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardware-t ... nment-tool ..... and the associated instruction file from Toyota.

Like you say and also the series80 workshop manual only talks about the top shim and previously I adjusted the pre-load with the top shims 4 years ago, now replacing these again( top bearing rusty!)

Looking at the instruction file properties I found the name....FSM - 1985 Truck & 4Runner.pdf ..... Looks like I put 2 & 2 together and got 5! Also another clue was the bearing size... 17mm, I think the 80's are 20mm from memory.

Stephen

 

[Chris]

[attachment=0:3jnp2uqf]Screen Shot 2012-03-31 at 21.56.32.jpg[/attachment:3jnp2uqf]

 

[Towpack]

There are only shims on the top. Adjustment has a range and I have found (having done three now) that using the original shims, it all goes back together OK. I disconnect the steering arms and use a pull scale to set the rotational load. I have spare shims in my kit but have never needed them. Once cleaned up and new bearings in, you will be amazed at how smooth it is. Use one of the old outer races and cut a slot through it. Put this on top of the new race so that you can tap it in with a hammer.

Chris

Found exactly the same thing when I did mine. Put the old shims back in for the simple reason that I didn't have any spares and when checked with a spring scale as Chris has described they were spot on.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The shims are there to set the pre-load. The original factory setting will spread the shims top and bottom to maintain the steering knuckle position, i.e. central. Due to the extremely tight manufacturing tolerances on ISO bearings, a set of new bearings should fit without the need to change the shims.

Bearings for the knuckle are available from industrial bearing stockists. These are ISO rated.

Roger

 

[Chris]

Milner sell OEM for £8.00

C

 

[Allchin]

The shims are there to set the pre-load. The original factory setting will spread the shims top and bottom to maintain the steering knuckle position, i.e. central. Due to the extremely tight manufacturing tolerances on ISO bearings, a set of new bearings should fit without the need to change the shims.

Roger

That is assuming that the previous owner / garage has not changed them. In my case there is a 5thou homemade brass shim on the bottom of each swivel.
The last time I changed them was four years ago and I left these shims where they were but did have to adjust the top shims to get the pre load.
50000 miles later and two desert trips to Egypt / Libya and last year a 6 month trip to the 'road of bone' Siberia via the 'Stans' these swivel bearings are 'knotchy' as hell. After taking them apart both the top ones are rusty, even though they are covered in grease! All the wheel bearing seals were worn out. The bearings had no preload and you could detect slight movement, the bearings themselves are fine and will be reused.

Stephen

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Quite often it's the bottom ones that go, as any water that gets in stays at the bottom, destroys the grease and then the bearing.

Roger

 

[Chris]

Mine stood for 8 years in a garden. The rollers and outer races sort of corroded in sympathy and when I stripped them you could actually index the bearings. It did mean that it kept a very straight course on the motorway though.

When we did Matt's recently they were as gritty and rough as heck. No new shims needed there either.
C

 

[Matt Wright]

But now it's like a performance race car

 

[Chris]

Only in your dreams Matt, only in your dreams.



Chris