Service hints/Fuel Filter changes.

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Dick Valentine wrote-
"Once a new fuel filter is fitted the system needs to be bled through.
On
petrol engines this is not a problem as long as everything has been
correctly fitted a couple turns of the engine and it should fire up.
Diesels however are little more difficult, a lot of filter housings
have
a bleed screw on the top, slacken this screw and pump fuel through
until
pure fuel shows with no air bubbles retighten the bleed screw, next
undo
the bleed screw on the side of the injector pump if it has one and
repeat above. Finally crack an injector pipe if poss near the injector
and turn engine over on the starter once all the air is out the engine
should start. Remember that even a minute amount of air in the system
will cause problems the engine will run erratically or not at all. If
after having done all this you still have a problem seek expert
advise."
Dick there is a much easier approach that I have used on all diesel
powered vehicles I have owned or serviced where the filter sits below
and screws into the filter housing as it does on an 80 series L/C.
Remove the filter and the housing as one unit.
If you do not have a vice slacken the filter by half a turn first.
Remove old filter and clean the housing. Fill the new filter with fresh
diesel right to the top and then fit it to the housing. Refit to the
vehicle.
As it is all full of diesel the amount of air is tiny. I have never had
to resort to using the hand priming pump or undoing any screws on the
injector pumps on any vehicle when I have used this method.
Unfotunately for me this will not work on my Scammell Explorer -
Leyland 680 power plus - but I have just purchased a Walbro electric
fuel pump - they are available in 24 volt versions - so I can overcome
this problem. I may also convert the old style diesel filters that you
mentioned over to a Racor type.
Regards Gareth Jones '97 1-HDFT Newport S.Wales.
 
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On 8/24/06, Gareth Jones <[Email address removed]> wrote:
Hi Gareth,
This makes the job a lot easier! Because the filter element is loaded
from the top, it's not even necessary to refull the filter bowl.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
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Thank you Roman, a seat is reserved for you in the Explorer!
Gareth.
 
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Hi Dick/Gareth,
Actually they are a lot better. I do recall running out of diesel in a
tractor once when I was about 13, I was working about 10 miles from
home and it was a major 'Oh shit, the manager is going to kill me'
moment, espescially since I had managed to get more fuel, but did not
know about all the bleeding hassle.
Fortunately, certainly the 80 series and later you only have to pump
the primer pump on the top of the fuel filter, which doesn't take long.
You don't need to bleed the pump or injectors.
Do you need to bother doing that, it is a fair bit to undo - I usually
take the filter off where it is, put it back on with 3/4 full of fuel
(so you don't spill any) and that way you have less pumping (if any)
and less nuts, pipes and wires to undo.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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Guest
Julian, it is all done and dusted in a few minutes. We each have our
preffered methods.
Gareth.
 
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Guest
Hi Guy's,
I suspect I hear someone describing a Racor turbine series filter my
favourite fuel filter elements are cheap ability to shed water and dirt
even before they get to the element is incredible. I put a 1000FG on a
industrial pump that was going through 200L of diesel a day and new
filters upto twice a week. With the 100fg it went through three filters
in 5 month's.
Cheers,
Craig
Roman wrote:
 
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