G
Guest
Guest
G'Day Denis,
We have found, always use genuine inner axle seals, front and back, and
Genuine, or OE supplier [Koyo] swivel bearings and wheel bearings, hub
Seals, and CV's. Genuine felt kits always last better than aftermarket also.
Gaskets don't really matter as much as the above.
Genuine here seem to last 2-3 times the aftermarket in this application,
Especially the inner axle seals. [Kyatts kits are a 12 month rebuild
proposition
Here, factory 3-5 yr]
If the axle studs are an unknown from a previous owner/mechanic, think about
Changing those as well, as they run a very low torque setting, and usually
Get over tightened, which leads to them failing, when the stud gets
stretched
Past its correct clamping force. Use a tension wrench to set them.
Torque is 26Ft-Lb or 35 N-m .
The steering knuckle cones also need to be treated the same, and tensioned
correctly,
[70-73 Nm] Using loctite or similar on the studs when inserting in the
washed stud
holes, And if you use 105 series studs to replace them, they come with a
10mm drive hex
On the bottom to make inserting and tensioning them in easier.
You should also use a brass drift on the end of the stud, to get the collets
off,
Hitting it against the end of the stud to "shock" the collets out, bigger
hammer,
hitting harder doesn't work, its the quick sharp shock that gets them loose.
Also,
don't hit the drive flange, and damage the taper on the drive flange where
the cone
sits.
You can also, depending on your year, upgrade to the 95-98 front drive
flanges,
which tend to chew the splines out where it sits in the axle with the
earlier units,
the later ones have the extra spline area [8mm worth] to help prevent this
happening.
They may, or may not fit on the cv splines in your vehicle, you would need
to measure
And check before trying to install/purchase.
We use a Valvoline Eplex EP for cv, wheel and swivel bearing, and found it
to be
Very effective. We did use a different grease, which was 4 times the price
originally,
But its composition has changed, and it isn't what it used to be.
Retensioning for our shop is a 50km, 500km, 5000km on these type of jobs,
from wheel bearings and studs/nuts, to wheel nuts, tailshafts etc, to be
sure, to be sure.
Hope that helps.
Darren McRae
Drysdale, Victoria, Australia.
95 FZJ-80 supercharged on 37"s SLEE front and rear bar/carrier
2wd/4wd conversion auto mods 25% reduction low range gears
Slinky Long Travel Suspension set up, 3" lift, 12" stroke shocks,
270lt fuel, snorkel, 4.56 diff gears, HID lights, 60lt Engel, winch,
Set up for touring the remote areas of our wide brown land.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/assassin_offroad/roobycurdimurkarail
wayline.jpg
~-----Original Message-----
~From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
~On Behalf Of Denis
~Hi all.
~
~A general question here on parts etc - I have recently started on going
~'over' the 80 series and just checking over everything - one thing I
~want to
~do is strip down both front corners and then rebuild them back up - now
~I'm
~thinking that the minimum I'll need will be two front gasket sets and
~then
~replace what's needed as I find what's required.
~
~So I've looked around and seen a Toyota-factor parts site with all (or
~most
~of bits needed) - now as I'm new to this Toyota lark I need to know what
~bits I should get from my Toyota dealer - genuine - and what bits can I
~go
~to a 'motor factor' for.
~
~I haven't mentioned any names in the motor-factors and whilst I know of
~only
~one - if anyone knows where else to go to get either genuine parts (not
~from
~the dealer - but an importer) or 'motors factors' it would be most
~welcome.
~
~Regards
~
~Denis
--
European Land Cruiser Owners Mailing List
Further Info: http://www.landcruisers.info/
We have found, always use genuine inner axle seals, front and back, and
Genuine, or OE supplier [Koyo] swivel bearings and wheel bearings, hub
Seals, and CV's. Genuine felt kits always last better than aftermarket also.
Gaskets don't really matter as much as the above.
Genuine here seem to last 2-3 times the aftermarket in this application,
Especially the inner axle seals. [Kyatts kits are a 12 month rebuild
proposition
Here, factory 3-5 yr]
If the axle studs are an unknown from a previous owner/mechanic, think about
Changing those as well, as they run a very low torque setting, and usually
Get over tightened, which leads to them failing, when the stud gets
stretched
Past its correct clamping force. Use a tension wrench to set them.
Torque is 26Ft-Lb or 35 N-m .
The steering knuckle cones also need to be treated the same, and tensioned
correctly,
[70-73 Nm] Using loctite or similar on the studs when inserting in the
washed stud
holes, And if you use 105 series studs to replace them, they come with a
10mm drive hex
On the bottom to make inserting and tensioning them in easier.
You should also use a brass drift on the end of the stud, to get the collets
off,
Hitting it against the end of the stud to "shock" the collets out, bigger
hammer,
hitting harder doesn't work, its the quick sharp shock that gets them loose.
Also,
don't hit the drive flange, and damage the taper on the drive flange where
the cone
sits.
You can also, depending on your year, upgrade to the 95-98 front drive
flanges,
which tend to chew the splines out where it sits in the axle with the
earlier units,
the later ones have the extra spline area [8mm worth] to help prevent this
happening.
They may, or may not fit on the cv splines in your vehicle, you would need
to measure
And check before trying to install/purchase.
We use a Valvoline Eplex EP for cv, wheel and swivel bearing, and found it
to be
Very effective. We did use a different grease, which was 4 times the price
originally,
But its composition has changed, and it isn't what it used to be.
Retensioning for our shop is a 50km, 500km, 5000km on these type of jobs,
from wheel bearings and studs/nuts, to wheel nuts, tailshafts etc, to be
sure, to be sure.
Hope that helps.
Darren McRae
Drysdale, Victoria, Australia.
95 FZJ-80 supercharged on 37"s SLEE front and rear bar/carrier
2wd/4wd conversion auto mods 25% reduction low range gears
Slinky Long Travel Suspension set up, 3" lift, 12" stroke shocks,
270lt fuel, snorkel, 4.56 diff gears, HID lights, 60lt Engel, winch,
Set up for touring the remote areas of our wide brown land.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/assassin_offroad/roobycurdimurkarail
wayline.jpg
~-----Original Message-----
~From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
~On Behalf Of Denis
~Hi all.
~
~A general question here on parts etc - I have recently started on going
~'over' the 80 series and just checking over everything - one thing I
~want to
~do is strip down both front corners and then rebuild them back up - now
~I'm
~thinking that the minimum I'll need will be two front gasket sets and
~then
~replace what's needed as I find what's required.
~
~So I've looked around and seen a Toyota-factor parts site with all (or
~most
~of bits needed) - now as I'm new to this Toyota lark I need to know what
~bits I should get from my Toyota dealer - genuine - and what bits can I
~go
~to a 'motor factor' for.
~
~I haven't mentioned any names in the motor-factors and whilst I know of
~only
~one - if anyone knows where else to go to get either genuine parts (not
~from
~the dealer - but an importer) or 'motors factors' it would be most
~welcome.
~
~Regards
~
~Denis
--
European Land Cruiser Owners Mailing List
Further Info: http://www.landcruisers.info/
