I have a wierd question, my buddy has the LC and the steering is limited, about 20 degrees to the right and 15 to the left from straight, I am assuming that a cv joint has failed and is locking up. Is it possible to pull the axle and cv joint and still drive the vehicle? We are in Costa Rica and the part is not available here and he needs the vehicle for business. We will order the parts tomorrow, but it will take 2 weeks to get here throught customs. Any help is appreciated, thanks, Pat
Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
Steering problem 93 Diesel
- Thread starter patfrank
- Start date
Andrew Prince
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2010
- Messages
- 2,232
Hi Pat,
As the cruiser is a 93, I am assuming it has a solid front axle (SFA) and not independent suspension - in which case it is possible that you have a broken CV but that would more likely manifest itself as a loss of drive, rather than steering binding. The answer to your question is that yes, you can drive the truck with the CV and half-shaft removed - just take the drive flange off. But you'll need to watch the diff oil leaking out the now-open end of the axle tube so try and plug it with a rag and some duct tape - but at best this is a very temporary solution.
However, I am not convinced that the CV is the source of your problem from the description given - I would suspect either the trunnion bearings (AKA swivel/king-pin bearings) located on the top and bottom of the knuckle sitting at each end of the axle or the steering arm studs. These are the 4 studs that connect the steering arms to the knuckle. These studs and/or the nuts are notorious for coming loose and falling off.
So, first thing to check is the 4 nuts/studs on the bottom of the knuckles - if all good, you'll need to strip the hub down and remove (inspecting the 2 wheel bearings, as it's possible one or more of these have failed). Once you have the stub axle removed, you'll be able to inspect the CV and the trunnion bearings.
There are also things like the power steering to check out and the whole steering system - tie-rod ends all ok, steering damper ok, oil in steering box and PS pump etc.
Hope that helps!
Cheers,
As the cruiser is a 93, I am assuming it has a solid front axle (SFA) and not independent suspension - in which case it is possible that you have a broken CV but that would more likely manifest itself as a loss of drive, rather than steering binding. The answer to your question is that yes, you can drive the truck with the CV and half-shaft removed - just take the drive flange off. But you'll need to watch the diff oil leaking out the now-open end of the axle tube so try and plug it with a rag and some duct tape - but at best this is a very temporary solution.
However, I am not convinced that the CV is the source of your problem from the description given - I would suspect either the trunnion bearings (AKA swivel/king-pin bearings) located on the top and bottom of the knuckle sitting at each end of the axle or the steering arm studs. These are the 4 studs that connect the steering arms to the knuckle. These studs and/or the nuts are notorious for coming loose and falling off.
So, first thing to check is the 4 nuts/studs on the bottom of the knuckles - if all good, you'll need to strip the hub down and remove (inspecting the 2 wheel bearings, as it's possible one or more of these have failed). Once you have the stub axle removed, you'll be able to inspect the CV and the trunnion bearings.
There are also things like the power steering to check out and the whole steering system - tie-rod ends all ok, steering damper ok, oil in steering box and PS pump etc.
Hope that helps!
Cheers,
I'd also check the end stops on the steering arm. They limit movement from lock to lock.
Andrew, on the flange front, I have taken an old worn flange and machined out the splines. That way if I do have a problem, I can stick the smooth flange on with the cap on the end. I have seen so many people having to do as you described, I thought I'd prepare!
Chris
Andrew, on the flange front, I have taken an old worn flange and machined out the splines. That way if I do have a problem, I can stick the smooth flange on with the cap on the end. I have seen so many people having to do as you described, I thought I'd prepare!
Chris
Andrew Prince
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2010
- Messages
- 2,232
patfrank said:
Lucky I'm not a doctorAndrew Prince said:
Glad you're on the road to recovery, Pat
Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
