Tales of Woe!

[Guest]

I'm beginning to remember now why I hate cars!
My LC still has the mystery lack-of-power (now read NO power!) problem
on petrol whilst remaining fine on gas. It's no longer running roughly,
it simply has no guts when in petrol mode; pressing the loud pedal has
no effect just as though it isn't connected to anything. However, if I
push it to the floor then on kickdown it drives perfectly fine - full
power, good acceleration but as soon as the kickdown disengages -
nothing! I would say it could be the TPS but it steadfastly remains 100%
OK on LPG. Grrrrrrrrrr! :-(
Now, my suspension has completely given up the ghost so I now need to
get it replaced urgently!!!
To cap it all, my difflocks have now packed up!
I have the standard set-up and the centre lock engages fine as soon as I
drop it into low range but the axle locks simply flash their lights at
me and don't engage. I can hear the click when I turn the difflock
switch but nothing happens. I suppose I've now got to strip the
actuators as well as everything else???!!!
Anyone want to buy a nice LPG converted FZJ80??????????????
Pete

 

[Guest]

Hi Peter
Sorry to hear that things are going the way they are believe me I know what
its like. On the subject of actuators I tested my diffs yesterday and like
yours , centre diff came on ok then the others just flashed and flashed. I
moved the switch on the dash a few times and drove a little forward and
backwards, all of course on grass. The RR would not engage at all but the
other one did. Where is the actuator located , has any one got pictures or
digrames of them. The RR actuator is it for the front or rear diff . Here
we go with the questions again but have to ask.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Browning" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 12:56 PM
Subject: [ELCO] Tales of Woe!

 

[Guest]

Hi Pete,
If you can hear the actuators clicking then you're usually ok, you just
need to get the wheels turning at different speeds so it can engage.
Going round and round in circles on a soft surface works for me, no
wheel spin needed but they will wind up and slip when it does engage.
If it's just a relay you here clicking then it might be time to pull the
actuators and check they're working. A friend did his rear recently and
it just needed a bit of tlc (lubrication!).
Best Regards,
Jon.
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
On Behalf Of Peter Browning
Sent: 23 September 2005 12:56
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: [ELCO] Tales of Woe!
I'm beginning to remember now why I hate cars!
My LC still has the mystery lack-of-power (now read NO power!) problem
on petrol whilst remaining fine on gas. It's no longer running roughly,
it simply has no guts when in petrol mode; pressing the loud pedal has
no effect just as though it isn't connected to anything. However, if I
push it to the floor then on kickdown it drives perfectly fine - full
power, good acceleration but as soon as the kickdown disengages -
nothing! I would say it could be the TPS but it steadfastly remains 100%
OK on LPG. Grrrrrrrrrr! :-(
Now, my suspension has completely given up the ghost so I now need to
get it replaced urgently!!!
To cap it all, my difflocks have now packed up!
I have the standard set-up and the centre lock engages fine as soon as I
drop it into low range but the axle locks simply flash their lights at
me and don't engage. I can hear the click when I turn the difflock
switch but nothing happens. I suppose I've now got to strip the
actuators as well as everything else???!!!
Anyone want to buy a nice LPG converted FZJ80??????????????
Pete

 

[Guest]

Hi Jon
I must take my time and write more clearly! It's just the relays that I
can hear - I haven't had a chance yet (raining) to get under the LC to
see if I can hear the actuator.
Once I take them off the axles do I need to strip the actuators apart or
is there just a plunger or whatever that needs lubricating?
Pete
Jon Wildsmith wrote:

 

[Guest]

Hi John
They can be a right pain can't they?!
I have no pictures but the actuators are little boxes bolted to the diff
housing on each axle - I *think* they're both on the left hand side of
the diff housing looked at from under the centre of the vehicle. I'll
check later.
At this rate I might as well rebuild the whole car!
Why don't you come over John, we can rebuild our cruisers sise-by-side
and compare disasters!!
Pete
John Byrne wrote:

 

[Guest]

OK, rain has stopped so I nipped outside.
I can hear both actuators whir when I select each difflock so they
*could* be OK and it's just me being paranoid maybe.
I'll try and find some soft ground to drive on later to see if the
actually engage. I did try driving in circles in a car park earlier but
the indicators just kept flashing at me.
Pete

 

[Guest]

John (Byrne)
If you stand by your cruiser with the engine off but the ignition on and
low ratio selected and you then select difflock can you hear a whirring
noise from the rear axle area? If you do then that is the actuator and
I'm assured that if you can hear it it is probably OK.
Pete
Peter Browning wrote:

 

[Guest]

Hi Peter,
That's good news.
The only other problem you could have is that the diff locks are
engaging, but the sensor isn't detecting it.
The only way to test this is to put in low range, turn the diff lock on
and then jack up one of the wheels on that axle and try to turn it - it
should turn no more than 1 revolution before you hear the diff lock
click in locking the two wheels toether at which point you shouldn't be
able to turn the wheel with the othr one still on the ground.
If the diff lock is engaged, but the light is still flashing you should
cehck the wiring for the sensor first - it is quite common for it to
get filled with crud.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift

 

[Guest]

Hi Peter,
That's good news.
The only other problem you could have is that the diff locks are
engaging, but the sensor isn't detecting it.
The only way to test this is to put in low range, turn the diff lock on
and then jack up one of the wheels on that axle and try to turn it - it
should turn no more than 1 revolution before you hear the diff lock
click in locking the two wheels toether at which point you shouldn't be
able to turn the wheel with the othr one still on the ground.
If the diff lock is engaged, but the light is still flashing you should
cehck the wiring for the sensor first - it is quite common for it to
get filled with crud.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift

 

[Guest]

If the motor is tuning and winding the spring up then it's mostly
working. What usually happens is either the motor falls apart or the
gears seize up and the motor can't turn. I wouldn't be surprised if it's
all working fine and you just need to get the wheels turning at
different speeds.
I've had a rear one fail because the casting had corroded where it bolts
to the side of the diff and so the actuator wasn't square on to the
diff. Since I cleaned that up about 3 years ago it's been fine.
If you're trying the jack it up test you'll also need to put it into
neutral, or better yet put the transfer into neutral if you have the CDL
switch. You won't turn the wheel far with it in park.
Best Regards,
Jon.
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
On Behalf Of Julian Voelcker
Sent: 23 September 2005 15:01
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Tales of Woe!
Hi Peter,
That's good news.
The only other problem you could have is that the diff locks are
engaging, but the sensor isn't detecting it.
The only way to test this is to put in low range, turn the diff lock on
and then jack up one of the wheels on that axle and try to turn it - it
should turn no more than 1 revolution before you hear the diff lock
click in locking the two wheels toether at which point you shouldn't be
able to turn the wheel with the othr one still on the ground.
If the diff lock is engaged, but the light is still flashing you should
cehck the wiring for the sensor first - it is quite common for it to
get filled with crud.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift

 

[Guest]

Hi
In my 94 the rear locker dash light kept flashing even when the rear
axle was obviously locked (confirmed with all wheels in the air at the
mechanic) the reason was a broken return signal wire apparently this
seems to be common on the rear actuator. So as Julian says the best
way to be sure is with the wheels on the air. The flashing lights in
the dash can be misleading. After getting some experience you can
easily tell if a certain diff is or isn't locked just by the way the
truck behaves on turns (on a relatively slippery dirt road NOT on
tarmac), so exercise them often to keep everything working.
Regards
Joaquim 94 1HD-T Portugal

 

[Guest]

Pete,
I have no experience with gas conversions but does the TPS do anything when
on gas, if not then that could still be your problem.
Regards, Clive.