I put a new towbar on my 100 today and while I was struggling to undo one of the bolts holding the old bar on realised the answer to an old question 
Last year I helped Ray fit a tow bar to a 100 he had just bought that didn't have a bar. When we tried to fit the brackets to the forward mounting holes we discovered the captive nuts inside the chassis rails were at a strange angle that prevented the bolts going in. Looking in the ends of the chassis rails with the bumper removed we could see that the plate the captive nuts are welded to was bent out of shape and we couldn't understand how that could have happened but figured it was some weired manufacturing defect. We ended up cutting the brackets out and making new ones so what should have been a quick job was a PITA.
Fast forward to today - one of the forward mounting bolts on mine was really hard work to undo even with an 18" bar and had to be worked back and forth for a long time. I'd removed the other bolts already and I noticed one of the captive nuts was a bit out of place ... sure enough the plate was starting to distort from the force of getting that last bolt out with nothing else holding the bracket in place. I was just about able to get the bracket back into shape without too much drama but a simple job could have been turned into a PITA again.
So if you're removing the bar on your 100 watch out, if one of the bolts on the forward mount is stiff put the other 2 bolts back in tight to hold the bracket and if you're buying a 100 that doesn't have a bar fitted but will want one, check those captive nuts look like they're accessible.
Not very exciting I know but here's the new bar that doesn't hang down as far as the OEM bar and has type approval for use with the type approved AHC (adjustable height coupling) from the same company:

Last year I helped Ray fit a tow bar to a 100 he had just bought that didn't have a bar. When we tried to fit the brackets to the forward mounting holes we discovered the captive nuts inside the chassis rails were at a strange angle that prevented the bolts going in. Looking in the ends of the chassis rails with the bumper removed we could see that the plate the captive nuts are welded to was bent out of shape and we couldn't understand how that could have happened but figured it was some weired manufacturing defect. We ended up cutting the brackets out and making new ones so what should have been a quick job was a PITA.
Fast forward to today - one of the forward mounting bolts on mine was really hard work to undo even with an 18" bar and had to be worked back and forth for a long time. I'd removed the other bolts already and I noticed one of the captive nuts was a bit out of place ... sure enough the plate was starting to distort from the force of getting that last bolt out with nothing else holding the bracket in place. I was just about able to get the bracket back into shape without too much drama but a simple job could have been turned into a PITA again.
So if you're removing the bar on your 100 watch out, if one of the bolts on the forward mount is stiff put the other 2 bolts back in tight to hold the bracket and if you're buying a 100 that doesn't have a bar fitted but will want one, check those captive nuts look like they're accessible.
Not very exciting I know but here's the new bar that doesn't hang down as far as the OEM bar and has type approval for use with the type approved AHC (adjustable height coupling) from the same company: