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Vague steering

essexpete

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2021
Messages
105
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uk
I have recently noticed that the steering wheel seems to need quite a lot of movement to correct and similar left or right.
Static test rocking steering results in a very small movements of front wheels with play almost non existent.
Is there an obvious thing to look for?
Thanks
 
Get someone to rock the steering left and right quite hard and fast whilst the engine is running, whilst this is being done start looking for cracks in the chassis where the steering box mounts and the other end of the drag link where it meets the chassis, panhard rod as well again where it mounts to the chassis, becoming very common nowadays.

Wear in the steering box is often the cause and of course can be adjusted, but needs to be done in a certain way, this though would come on over years as opposed to a recent occurrence.

Regards

Dave
 
Thanks Dave, I will have a look. In truth I think it has crept up. Jumping from a modern precise car probably highlights!
 
Very possible, if you are not sure how to adjust the steering box get someone who knows how, it is not a simply matter of turning the adjuster screw, do it wrong and you might find yourself or another driver of your 80 involved in an accident.

regards

Dave
 
Could be unrelated but what sort of tyres are fitted and their age ?

determine-age-of-tires-2-2980344284.jpeg
 
Good point, they do tend to crack and perish after 'X' amount of years if not driven regularly but should have been picked up by the person doing the MOT long before causing steering problems, as per the UK, here in Spain many things determine whether a cars tyre passes the ITV (MOT), age being used as a final decision maker if there is any speculation at to condition, small cracks for example, somewhere between small allowing a pass to possibly too large to not.

Obviously the 1.6 mm wear limit (1 mm on commercials), of course but also general condition, 'blocking' that is out of shape tread pattern normally showing after a tyre has been run flat damaging the internal structure and then being repaired, cracking between the treads, tyre wall damage no canvas to be showing in cuts and nicks and of course bulges, age is taken in consideration only if there are other issues although around eight years seems to be the turning point between a pass or a fail. Re cracks in the tread, this seems to be isolated to certain brands and also origin, for example China and Siberia seem to be worse, I used to replace more tyres from cracking due to the heat than for actually being worn out.

As an aside, tyres MUST match across the axle for example brand A and A on the front axle and B and B on the rear is fine, but A and B on the same axle is an automatic fail, so more often than not a damaged tyre say halfway through it's life will mean the purchase of two new ones.

Regards

Dave
 
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The tyres are a set of AT BF Goodrich on standard 16in.
They are longish in the tooth but have worn evenly and no where near worn out. I use regularly but not many miles a year.
 
Have you checked the tracking recently? Incorrect tracking can cause vague steering as well.
 
When I got my 81 it was a bit prone to tram lining and the steering was generally a bit vague. I checked the usual culprits and all was well, no excess play, pretty recent decent shocks and springs, tracking ok etc.. The tyres were BFG A/Ts with well over half the tread left, minimal inter tread cracking and generally looked tidy but on checking the age they were over ten years old. I bit the bullet, a new set of tyres (BFG A/Ts) and the steering was much improved (unlike my wallet!). Just my experience, but I thought it might be worth mentioning. I think that the 81 had spent quite a time in hot and sunny places before I got it which probably didn't help.
 
What about the king pin bearings, at the top and bottom of the front axle CV joint housings?
 
10 degree 'dead spot' is wear @ the power piston, worm gear, and balls.
Don't mess with your balls and just fix the problem (2020USD)
1 - 04445-60050 - steering box reseal kit - EBAY- $110
2* - 44154-30020 - power piston plunger guide nut - Partsouq - $5 (*2 because I thought just the reseal kit would fix the issue)
1 - 18-32-7-DL - input shaft seal part number (not Toyota) - Ebay - $8 - (My OEM kit actually came with this seal (not normal), but didn't know it till I'd started the job)
1 - 44120-60180 - VALVE ASSY, W/BALL NUT - TPD - $433 - Biggest cost, but resolves steering to factory new along with the other parts making it work for another 150km+.
If lifted, caster would be the next thing to tackle to eliminate wander/'kicksteer'.
 
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