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vibrating - shaking when idling cold engine

A safe and tested fix to this well known 4-cylinder engine problem, is to change it out for a proper Land Cruiser engine, which has six cylinders. They always run smooth.

:)
 
Hello spyrofly, saw this article the other day, it is a nissan, but 3.0 with denso system, may give you some bits to look at especially the Valve in the fuel pump. Hope you cure your running fault.

pmmonline.co.uk/technical/what-causing-nissan-nightmares/
 
Thank you all for the proposals - answers.
@TONYCY11 : Can you please tell me send me the instruction to reach and check the valves? I only have the valve spacing specifications but not the "to Do" instructions to get there. I don't have experience on diesel and even if it seems very similar to petrol, i would like to have the official instructions.
 
Thank you all for the proposals - answers.
@TONYCY11 : Can you please tell me send me the instruction to reach and check the valves? I only have the valve spacing specifications but not the "to Do" instructions to get there. I don't have experience on diesel and even if it seems very similar to petrol, i would like to have the official instructions.
The haynes workshop manual states check with feeler gauge but to adjust means removing camshafts and injector pipes etc to remove and install different size shims , but I have heard of folk turning the crankshaft until largest space between cam lobe and shim and using strong magnet on a pen that has extending shaft like a radio aerial and sliding out old shim and sliding in new size shim . The specs are when engine cold inlet 0.20 to 0.30 and exhaust 0.35 to 0.45 as you have already changed the injectors you have already been to the stage of been able to check valve clearance,it is recommended to check valve clearance when changing the injectors , did you code in new injector codes after fitting new injectors if not maybe that could be the cause of the shaking coming back
 
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this is a clever solution (the one with the magnet) if applicable.
unfortunately the technicians did not check the valve clearance when they changed the injectors...
Yes, they coded the new injectors and they upgraded the software too since they installed the newest improved injector version as TOYOTA instructed. (the previous injectors had been recalled from TOYOTA)
 
this is a clever solution (the one with the magnet) if applicable.
unfortunately the technicians did not check the valve clearance when they changed the injectors...
Yes, they coded the new injectors and they upgraded the software too since they installed the newest improved injector version as TOYOTA instructed. (the previous injectors had been recalled from TOYOTA)

@spyroslfy - Did you ever resolve the shake? Mine has gone in today for new mounts. I checked the injectors and they are all in spec. There's no other funny noises and the auto box has been fully serviced. Hopefully new mounts will fix it. It seems to be common in Australia and engine mounts fix the issue.
 
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I too would be interested to know if getting the valves spot on changed anything.
 
New engine mounts fitted and the shaking is gone. It was shaking in D and R (auto box 3.0 D4D) when stationary. I would have to slip it into N do get rid of the shaking. It doesn't appear to be doing it at all.

The car has only 87k miles on it so a poor show from Toyota really.

Total cost was about £280 inc. parts, sourcing the parts myself and getting a local diesel/truck garage to do it.

Not only has the shaking stopped, at idle it's smoother and quieter (even in N), gear changes appear to be smoother and it just feels like a tighter newer car now (mines a 2007).
 
Great news AM. :clap::dance:

I wonder if this is what I have with my 80? I doubt it as they look to be in good condition and certainly haven’t parted company.

Food for thought.
 
Great news AM. :clap::dance:

I wonder if this is what I have with my 80? I doubt it as they look to be in good condition and certainly haven’t parted company.

Food for thought.

The ones on the 120 are pneumatic. It seems that they break down after some time and can't hold vacuum. Yours are solid mounts and are less likely to go wrong, however, considering how old 80s are and the likely mileage an heat cycling, I'd say it's a fair guess.
 
It was one of the possibilities mentioned on my thread when I first posted it up.
 
really sorry for the late reply...
No. the vibration is not solved. I learnt to leave with that since it is not affecting the operation of the engine nor the car's...
 
Have realigned the valves, this must be done everytime the injectors are replaced, they are not hydraulic, they are manual, i have similar problems, constant rattling, and little over fueling causing small misfire only when cold, but the rattle is constant, even when warmed, but the rattle is top of engine, i would check the alignment
 
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