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Viscous coupling in transfer case

Johan Bakker

New Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2010
Messages
5
Hi guys,
Let me start at the beginning i bought a 97vx limited edition diesel 4.2 jap spec Landcruiser with HTFE motor. When I bought the Landcruiser if you turn sharp it felt as though you got 4x4 windup. While driving the gearbox tunnel got quiet hot. I used the LC for fishing and used to ride 250km distance at a time at aprox 120km/h. The LC did about 3500km like this. I was not sure if it was a limited slip diff or the center diff that was locking up, i remove front prop shaft and it was a completely different vehicle, the problem was solved.I have done aprox 2500km with front prop shaft removed, i hope this is not a problem. Speaking to other people I was informed that it was the viscious coupling. I have drained and replaced ATF but this is only a small percentage which is replaced. At no time did the ATF light come on. This gearbox has always been very lazy and will only change down with hard acceleration. This is a 3 speed auto with overdrive the gearbox is a A442F as Jon said. When cold the LC feels like it has 5 gears, but the 5th gear is the torque converter locking up. When box is warm it stops locking up. I want to remove viscious coupling from transfer box. And do the conversion to lock up the CDL in high range. I belive the 100 series is like this. I would like comments as to what I should do i.e. Keep changing ATF fluid or if I should strip the auto-box or any quick fixes. Looking foward to your comments.
Regards
Johan
 
Re: viscious coupling in transfer case

Hi Johan,
From your description, it does sound like the viscous coupling might have seized on your LC.
Have a look here to see a similar post about removing the VC.
The VC seizing shouldn't affect the ATF in your gearbox particularly - if the ATF is a nice clear red colour and doesn't smell burnt, then probably no need to keep replacing, other than for routine maintenance.
You might want to check the oil level in the transfer case (you can see the filler plug just to the left of where the rear propshaft exits the transfer case) and if in doubt, drain the oil and replace. Obviously you will be draining it if you're taking the rear extension housing off to remove the VC.

Cheers,
 
Re: viscious coupling in transfer case

Before you drain it make sure you can get the fill plug off first.

Been there, done that. Not good.
 
Re: viscious coupling in transfer case

Good point, Adrian!
The filler plug is a very shallow 24mm head. My favourite modified tool is a cheap 24mm hex socket with the chamfer/lip ground off so that the socket grips the whole depth of the plug-head. A standard socket with a mm or so of chamfer and a tight plug and you will round the corners off easily.
The diff filler and drain plugs are the same size too, so the modified socket is very handy ;)

Cheers,
 
Re: viscious coupling in transfer case

That and a good long breaker bar.
 
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Re: viscious coupling in transfer case

Re your lazy auto box. Just make sure you check the level with the engine idling and when thoroughly warm. I've seen so many overfilled boxes (because the engine oil is checked with engine off, so...)
And, as said above, the ATF should look & smell good.

VC - I know nothing about. None on the 100, and had part-time on the 80.
 
Re: viscious coupling in transfer case

The torque converter not locking up once the box is nice and warm could be the lock up solenoid failing. I would think that is more likely than anything else given that it seems to be locking up when cold. You would have to remove the gearbox oil pan to access the solenoids but it's quite easy to do but a little messy. There are tests you can do on the solenoid without removing the pan but they can be inconclusive. Somewhere on here I did a post on changing the valve body and that has pictures that show the solenoids.
 
Hi Jon.

I have stripped the back of the transfer case off and removed the VC coupling.
On my transfer case the is no earth wire, what are the implications of this?
I did not look at the web link and where I should of pulled the speedo cable off, I unscrewed the bottom part.
Theres a small pin in there where I know where it goes.
I found a black ring probablly 12mm diameter and 12mm high, I assume this fits in there as well?
There is a slightly bigger diameter on the one side, if it fits in there which way does it go?
And if not where does this piece go?

Thanks Jon and to everyone else who comments, it is highly appreciated.

Johan
 
I can't remember if the 80 series transfer case has an earth wire but it probably earths fine through the engine earthing.

You might need to post some pictures of the speedo connector parts you're describing.
 
IMG_2429.jpg


IMG_2426.jpg


Hi Jon

I hope this link works, its the first time I'm attempting to use photobucket.
Does that black spacer fit in the speedo connection?
And if it does, which way round does it go, small or big side first?

Regards

Johan
 
IMG_2423.jpg

Picture 1

IMG_2428.jpg

Picture 2

IMG_2427.jpg

Picture 3

Hi Jon

I think I have posted the pictures correctly.

The driver pin in picture 1 connects to the fitting in picture 3.
And the picture 3 connects to the transfer case fitting.

After removing the tail piece of the transfer case, I found the pin and black spacer on the ground.
I know where the pin goes, but I do not know where the black spacer goes.
It fits into the fitting of the transfer case both ways.

Small or big side in first?
I can't see the reason for this spacer to be there, if you know where it goes please help.

Many thanks

Johan.
 
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