Wheel bearings etc...

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Guest

Guest
Hi Julian/Jon
I am going to bite the bullet and order the whole lot from Milners bar the
inner seals (toyo) and then do it starting next week as I hope not to need
the car for a couple of days after that. Will look at the steering bushes
tonight and see if there is any play/movement that should not be there. I
know there are problems with both sides as oil is leaking out of the
knuckles but the worst is the passenger side so that will get done first!
Like you said it should be straightforward but will I need any SSTs or
things like bearing pullers etc?
Re the idle speed dropping. I only have the manual aircon system (open a
window/open the sunroof) so the idle speed is not affected when I do this!
But I know what you mean.
This is why buying a workshop manual is sometimes not a good thing, as I am
getting paranoid about every wobble and rattle now.
Regards
Simon Hughes
K reg TLC 4.2D VX (fixed the funny noise and now there is a new one)
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Simon,
Wear in the knuckle bearings cannot, unless really bad, be checked without
pulling them apart and then physically inspecting them. If you do replace
the bearings (?8.50 + VAT each - you need 4 for both sides) you also need to
get some shims to make sure you have the right preload.
You ideally need a 54mm hub socket but they are as rare as ..... I use a
54mm box spanner and rely on checking the preload with fish scales to get
the bearing set correctly, although you could just use a cold chisel to
tighten the nuts up - some people get a bit anal about this, but as long as
it gets the job done, then fine.
You also need a decent long punch to knocking out the knuckle bearings and a
seal puller to get the inner seals and hub seals out.
There are a stack of write ups about it, most of them underlying the fact
that you need a lot of kitchen roll to clean everything off with.
Take a look at http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/axle/index.html for a
good write up.
Make sure you drain the diff first, if you don't and the vehicle is on a
slight angle it can make the job a lot harder.
OK, the other things to check are your fuel filter and air cleaner - if they
are quite old, replace them and then see if that makes a difference. I
doubt it would be a heat related thing, unless you are also getting a vacuum
in the tank due to blocked breathers - do you get a sucking sound if you
open the filler cap after a short run?
If you need any more help, give me a call.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Simon,
Ideally you need a 54mm socket for the hub nuts. Many people just use a
chisel though because the sockets are not cheap. The only other 'SST' is
a tool for pulling the old axle oil seal out which you just need
something with a hooked end really, I use a cheap seal puller which is
just a long screwdriver with a hook on the end.
None SST 'tools' should include newspaper to put the bits on (obvious I
know but I've found myself holding a hub with nowhere to put it down
before now!) and lots of rags or paper towels for mopping up. A small
plastic tray or bowl might be handy as well, when you unbolt the drive
spindle from the knuckle it will probably let a lot of thick oil &
grease out which will escape through the bolt holes as you undo them as
well. I cheated and put a huge pile of paper towelling underneath to
soak it up.
When ordering your parts you'll need to add some hub nut lock washers (1
each side). I would suggest it's worth ordering a couple of extra ones,
it's very frustrating if you need to go in their again maybe to tighten
the bearings up a little and can't do a proper job for lack of a 85p
(from Milner) lock washer ...
If you decide to replace the CV joints don't forget you'll need new
drive plates to match as well. I find my local Toyota dealer is actually
cheaper for these than Milner though both supply a genuine Toyota part.
If you can take your time it's a straight forward job.
Best regards,
Jon.
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
On Behalf Of Simon Hughes
Sent: 21 June 2005 15:40
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: RE: [ELCO] Wheel bearings etc...
Hi Julian/Jon
I am going to bite the bullet and order the whole lot from Milners bar
the
inner seals (toyo) and then do it starting next week as I hope not to
need
the car for a couple of days after that. Will look at the steering
bushes
tonight and see if there is any play/movement that should not be there.
I
know there are problems with both sides as oil is leaking out of the
knuckles but the worst is the passenger side so that will get done
first!
Like you said it should be straightforward but will I need any SSTs or
things like bearing pullers etc?
Re the idle speed dropping. I only have the manual aircon system (open
a
window/open the sunroof) so the idle speed is not affected when I do
this!
But I know what you mean.
This is why buying a workshop manual is sometimes not a good thing, as I
am
getting paranoid about every wobble and rattle now.
Regards
Simon Hughes
K reg TLC 4.2D VX (fixed the funny noise and now there is a new one)
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Julian/Jon
Thank you for all the advice. I have seen how much 54mm sockets cost!!!
Will start making a list for Toyo and Milners profits to go up yet again.
Regards
Simon Hughes
 
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G

Guest

Guest
Hi Jon,
Have you managed to find a supplier in the UK.
I'm tempted to put an order into Slee for one.
I use an ice cream tub sized container to put all the nuts, bolts, brake
pads etc from each side as I strip down and then use a flattened
cardboard box to lay the parts out on.
I also have some old 25litre oil drums cut in half (about the size of a
washing up bowl) that I put under the knuckle as I strip it down so I can
just scrape the oil/grease mix into as I go along.
Kitchen roll works well, but most auto factors sell rolls of paper
(usually blue) that works better and last longer since most of what you
are doing is scraping the muck out, you don't need the absorbency of the
new high tech kitchen rolls ;-)
You can get rubber/silicon based gloves to keep most of the grime off
your hands as you are doing it, but to be honest I find they are not the
best things in this sort of weather and rely on decent hand cleaner.
You will also find it slightly easier to clean off the knuckles with a
pressure washer before hand - it is a lot easier undoing all the nuts if
they aren't caked in grease and oil.
You will also need a bowl, some degreaser and a paint brush or two to
clean the parts off that you aren't replacing. I am lucky enough to have
a proper degreasing tank, but used to use a washing up bowl and then some
water soluble degreaser (buy in 1 gallon cans) - obviously try to scrape
as much muck off as possible using the rags/paper towel before using the
degreaser to finish it off.
Final thing, make sure that you have some overalls or very old clothes
on, the grease will get everywhere!
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Simon,
Where have you seen them for sale?
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
G

Guest

Guest
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
On Behalf Of Julian Voelcker
Sent: 21 June 2005 17:29
I can't remember where I got mine from now but it was mail order and was
not cheap so I'd import a Slee one if you can't find one for a sensible
price in this country.
Best regards,
Jon.
 
G

Guest

Guest
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]
On Behalf Of Peter Browning
Sent: 21 June 2005 19:39
Doesn't sound bad for a UK price, think I paid over =A380 for mine
including delivery but it's had a lot of use so the price shock is
wearing off now.
Jon.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Peter,
Sounds a bit steep - the Snap-on ones are around ?16 although there is
around a 6 week lead time.
Do you have the contact details of the supplier so that I can verify
the price?
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
G

Guest

Guest
On 6/21/05, Jon Wildsmith <[Email address removed]> wrote:

Jon,
It'does feel good to be in the money, doesn't it?
You can have 54mm 3/4 Square Drive Elora Bi-Hexagon Socket for =A323.17
(Incl. VAT)
Supplied by Draper Tools,
Stock No. 00880 - Part No. 770-SM
Check http://www.justoffbase.co.uk
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Roman,
Is that deep enough with thin enough walls?
I have managed to find some 54mm sockets, but not deep enough or thin
enough to do the job.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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