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Which engine oil?

wobbly

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Joined
Nov 27, 2010
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Garage
The little orange light came oin tonight, topped it up but its pretty thick and black, so time for an oil and filter change.

Its a 1980's era diesel, so I'm guessing it would have run on good quality mineral oil, but I was thinking of using semi or even fully synthetic.

Any suggestions on which of the three is preferable?

Pete
 
I'm sure someone will know much better than I, but I'm pretty sure I've heard stories of older vehicles having a hissy fit when run on synthetic - something to do with seals etc not coping well on the newer stuff.

Opie oils still do pretty good dyno-juice IIRC?
 
Hi Gary

It must've run on mineral oil originally (1980's vintage), but I think it had semi-synthetic at last service.

Too many chopices - will get the filter from Toyota, am sure they will try and sell me the most expensive oil as well thoiugh!

Pete
 
I dont think mineral or synth will make much difference to an essentially low revving engine with thousands of miles/klms on it.
The most important thing is to change it when it needs doing and use a quality well known brand.

Landcruiser and other engines were doing half a million miles long before synthetic oil come along.
 
Toyota garage sold me a filter, but reckoned their 5w-30 synthetic was wasted on my truck (good thing to at the price!!), the guy also suggested a good quality 10w-40 semi-synthetic and change more regularily (I've done less than 6000miles in 12 months, but the old oil is lilke, well.....old oil.

Will have a browse for deals on oil tonight.

Cheers

Pete

Ps oem toyo filter is a double filter construction, far more solid than the motor factor one on it.
 
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Remember to check Opie Oils - club discount and free shipping ....

Cheers
 
Put in 6litre of Valvoline, took out 5.7litre of gloop, had put in about a litre to top it up on wednesday, so used about 1.3litre in 12 months, would probably have been less if I changed it more often than when the light comes on.

Oil filter is a pig - its a really tight fit between the filter and the block - ok coming off as I just knocked a screwdriver through the old one, but hard tightening the new one up - am going to get a strap that works on a socket, rather than my bike chaoin one, which bent the new filter a bit!

What I could do with is a huge socket that fits on the end on the filter.

May have a go at the axles and gearbox next.

Pete
 
Halfords do a filter claw which uses a 3/8" drive ratchet - excellent. But to tighten it you should be going hand tight plus 1/4 turn or you won't get it off again! If the gasket is good, clean and lightly oiled that should be enough :lol:
 
Thats about what I managed.

The suspension lift helped - loads of space under there!

Pete
 
Interesting - CI-4 rated oils to be avoided if the EGR system has been bypassed/blanked.

Not sure what the Valvoline MaxLife is, will have a look on their website.

Pete
 
Its CF, which looks to be the correct spec as my truck is indirect injection.

Handy link that, thanks.

Pete
 
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