80's Series GXL Problem - NEED HELP

[frank rabbets]

Yes don't start the engine again until you've checked the big end bearings.

 

[clivehorridge]

X 3 that it sounds like a metal to metal tap, and it's louder than I would imagine from a tappet. BEBs are so easy and cheap to replace, it's a good start to eliminate the chances of total failure, if nothing else.

DO THEM FIRST !

 

[byrnieman]

Cheers guys - I will start with the BEB's and go from there. Any idea what it should cost me to have them done?

 

[Knucklehead]

Plenty of info on BEBs here:
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/35020-Big-end-shell-replacement

Not sure how much a garage charges to do this job but could DIY and put the saved labour dosh to getting more parts and tools.

Is fairly straight forward with some basic tools.

Dave.

 

[karl webster]

Where are you based?

 

[byrnieman]

Where are you based?

Western Australia

 

[karl webster]

Best bet is to get some acls from over there then mate. You need to take the sump off anyway to inspect. May as well put the new ones in as long as the crank is ok still.

Obviously it may still turn out to be something else.

 

[byrnieman]

acls?

 

[stumog]

Acl isa make of the bearing you can buy.

 

[karl webster]

I thought the acl bearings actually cam from Oz?

THey are the preferred bearing choice by most.

 

[clivehorridge]

As for cost at a service, my parts came to about 50 Euros (IIRC) and the job took them 4 hours.

If you can price that at local charge rates, you shouldn't be too far out.

Not expensive and a very good price for the peace of mind.

When the BEBs let go at any speed, it's catastrophic in most cases, end of engine, finito!

 

[byrnieman]

So I dropped it off at my mechanic and it was the big end bearings. Number 2 in particular had just about disintegrated! Caused pistons to hit the valves & now I'm hoping there is no damage to the pistons.
Mechanic said they have to take the motor out - regrind the crankshaft, machine the head etc.
Looking at $2500

I am also wondering - whilst the motor is out - what should I get them to do? I'm thinking I should give them a bit of a list of things that are easy & cheap to do now whilst it is in pieces! Any suggestions??

 

[karl webster]

Shit news mate.

Seen it so many times here. I didn't want to mention the crank but that does happen a lot if the truck is ran when it starts to knock.
A second hand crank would be the better option rarther than a re-grind to be honest. The cranks are hardened from factory.
You may as well have new rings and mains whilst your in there.

 

[clivehorridge]

So I dropped it off at my mechanic and it was the big end bearings. Number 2 in particular had just about disintegrated! Caused pistons to hit the valves & now I'm hoping there is no damage to the pistons.
Mechanic said they have to take the motor out - regrind the crankshaft, machine the head etc.
Looking at $2500

I am also wondering - whilst the motor is out - what should I get them to do? I'm thinking I should give them a bit of a list of things that are easy & cheap to do now whilst it is in pieces! Any suggestions??

It sounds like a lot of cash, but it's better than destroying the engine, which would have happened very soon by the sound of it.

IMO, while the Engine is out and stripped, it would be a good time to check the pistons and rings, the ring seats etc. Metal to metal contact is never a good thing and especially on No.2, there could be some impact damage to the piston, causing breakage or hairline cracks.

The valves too (especially on No.2) should be checked, impact on the valves can easily bend the valve stems and cause loss of compression, and subsequent burning of the valve seats if not corrected.

After having the pistons out, especially if any new parts are fitted, (piston rings and/or pistons) the bores should be honed before re-assembly.

Honing is not difficult, you can do it yourself with a honing tool and an electric drill (even the tool is not too expensive). This will remove any glazing on the bores and allow the new parts to "bed-in" properly.

That's my pennyworth, maybe there'll be some better advice to come.

Glad you took the advice to get the BEBs checked!

 

[Alambco]

I have just returned from a field trip 6 weeks my Amazon 1998 wont start its always been a good starter even after longer periods are these bad for pump problems ? its a 4.2 diesel non Turbo model

 

[Towpack]

Shit news mate.

Seen it so many times here. I didn't want to mention the crank but that does happen a lot if the truck is ran when it starts to knock.
A second hand crank would be the better option rarther than a re-grind to be honest. The cranks are hardened from factory.
You may as well have new rings and mains whilst your in there.

x2. A good 2nd hand crank may well be a cheaper option. Assuming the crank is within regrinding tolerance it will need re-hardening (by Tuftriding or similar process) and then polishing after the regrind process.

 

[byrnieman]

For those following along at home & wondering what the end result was... FULL ENGINE REBUILD!! New or reconditioned everything!
Want to have a guess at the price for the full rebuild?

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

$4500? !st guess.

Andy

 

[clivehorridge]

$5,500

These are OZ$ after all...

Glad all is well at last, another mighty 80 saved from the breakers

 

[frank rabbets]

This engine was done quickly so they've obviously done them before so $3000