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90 D4D Collie rear Locker stuck

Off topic I know but In my opinion Shayne I would not go out laning in a group less than 3 unless you are very experienced. 3 trucks gives the opportunity for 1 to get stuck and 1 to get stuck trying to recover and 1 to get you somewhere warm and or find help elsewhere. IMHO Its like walking. never in groups less than 3.

The best thing I can advise is to hunt out some local 4x4 clubs (there will be some about) and get yourself out with them. If you want any further advice i would probably recommend starting anew thread, It wouldn't be right to hi-jack this one.
 
If the noise is there i'd heat the pin only , but first i'd try hitting it hard as you can with something like a 19mm spanner held between your finger and thumb , its the shock you want rather than the power of a solid blow . When first i got mine working it was slow to engage and disengage i had to reverse out of the garden a 90 degree turn from grass onto tarmac down a 10 inch step , then 30ft down the lane then do a 180 before the diff unlocked . It was horrible one wheel would lock while the other 3 wheels and the weight of the truck and the power of the engine FORCED the locked wheel to go where it didn't want to go . After that though everything worked fine so maybe that bit of pain loosened everything up for me ?

Try reversing a bit. It's always best not to turn corners on tarmac with the diffs locked
 
Stumog is right, don't do it on Tarmac or a grippy surface. Mud, loose gravel or wet grass will do. The grippy surfaces don't allow the inside wheel to slip and you get "wind up" across the axle which could break stuff through the twisting forces applied.
 
Done all that ... no change yet. Only heat and shock left now, unless there are any other ideas of course.
 
Have you checked for any noise yet ? If you have and there's nothing to hear i wouldn't hold out much hope for shock or heat so don't be over optimistic and end up damaging parts that wouldn't otherwise need replacing . Its certainly looking like you need a new actuator .

At 400 quid a go i would definitely be inclined to follow the wires from behind the switch right back to the diff itself checking for worn wires and cleaning connections and just anything that looks like it might cause a problem before i decided to order one .
 
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Quick test with a multi-meter at the terminals will tell you if the actuator is being powered by the switch. After that i reckon you pretty much onto the task of attempting to remove it to clean up the internals. Good luck with that, they are a real struggle to get off in 1 piece so best of luck.

I take it Rob that you have done the appropriate checks to see weather it is working or not and you are not just relying on the light.

TBH Rob I would be tempted at this point to just tell the guy that made the offer and knock him 100 quid off.
 
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I would just say to him the diff doesn't work you don't know why but its a very common problem and not worth fixing unless he intends to use the truck for extreme off road . I had absolutely no intention of spending 400 on mine , had it not started working i would have just done without . Of course now i've been off road and experienced the difference a rear diff makes i wouldn't hesitate to get it fixed . But i would still do without if it was on a road only truck .
 
Well thats it, I have admitted defeat. Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys
I reckon it has never been used.
Fused together since birth.
 
Just got this months TOR. Try giving julien V at overland cruisers a bell. It says he can get replacements for £250. Thats cheeper than milners

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