Ben’s 1989 HJ60 GX 2H Manual

[Ben Stratford]

Ok so next up on the todo list is to replace the drivers door and both upper & lower tailgates.

The replacements will need painting in Toyota grey 153 which I am quite confident about doing myself.

I hope to restore the panels that come off over the winter and either keep as spares or sell on.

What I could use some advice on please is the upper tailgate window replacement. I have a new window rubber and chrome mouldings ready so I’m gearing up to just cut the old rubber off. I also have some cord ready to pull the new rubber over the lip. The question is, do I need to use any sealant at all?

All opinions would be gratefully received, cheers.

 

[stumog]

Using cord to fit a window is so 2000.

Get a proper window fitting plastic tool. Much easier to use and plenty of soapy water. I wouldn't use sealant in the first instance

 

[Ben Stratford]

Thanks @stumog I will Google the plastic thingy

 

[Ben Stratford]

Today removed rear prop which I noticed was out of phase at about 45 degrees. There had been some vibration which I was Investigating.
Both UJ’s had no play whatsoever, so cleaned them up, and refitted the shaft in Phase. ( quite tricky to line up by eye when underneath so used some straight edges ).
Anyway while fannying about with the grease gun, I noticed some backlash between the transfer box and rear prop flange - a bit more than ideal I think.
Could anyone offer some advice as to how to get rid of, or reduce the backlash please?
Also decided to swap rear wheels to the front and change oil filter and air filter.
A test drive threw up a clicking noise at the speed of the wheels!! Jacked up rear axle thinking the prop was the issue. Went through the gears but no clicking but noticed near side rear wheel not turning but off side was fine - so brakes need looking at too!!
Took off OSF wheel and noticed a shiny line on the brake caliper which was rubbing on a balance weight - of the stick on variety. So that was removed and it’s booked in for rebalancing tomorrow. Researching rear brakes now. After another test drive the clicking has gone but the NSR wheel was hot when I got home!

 

[Ben Stratford]

While waiting for a new brake cylinder to arrive, a pair of fog lamps were improvised using 3mm thick aluminium plate and some red cheap hella fog lights.

 

[Ben Stratford]

New headlamps and side lights installed today

 

[yogi]

Today removed rear prop which I noticed was out of phase at about 45 degrees. There had been some vibration which I was Investigating.
Both UJ’s had no play whatsoever, so cleaned them up, and refitted the shaft in Phase. ( quite tricky to line up by eye when underneath so used some straight edges ).
Anyway while fannying about with the grease gun, I noticed some backlash between the transfer box and rear prop flange - a bit more than ideal I think.
Could anyone offer some advice as to how to get rid of, or reduce the backlash please?
Also decided to swap rear wheels to the front and change oil filter and air filter.
A test drive threw up a clicking noise at the speed of the wheels!! Jacked up rear axle thinking the prop was the issue. Went through the gears but no clicking but noticed near side rear wheel not turning but off side was fine - so brakes need looking at too!!
Took off OSF wheel and noticed a shiny line on the brake caliper which was rubbing on a balance weight - of the stick on variety. So that was removed and it’s booked in for rebalancing tomorrow. Researching rear brakes now. After another test drive the clicking has gone but the NSR wheel was hot when I got home!

How much backlash Ben?

 

[Ben Stratford]

Backlash is about 10 degrees each way from centre when rotating prop shaft by hand. I drive sympathetically to it so don’t notice it normally but it’s there if you suddenly lift off or apply throttle quickly.
Will need to look at the transfer box to see if it’s just wear & tear or something to be concerned about

 

[Ben Stratford]

Today had a fight with the NSR brake drum to try to find out why that side was binding
Had to screw in 2 long M8’s to eventually pull it off. The brake shoe retainer spring on one side had come loose (the spring fell off). The cylinder was sticky on one side too and a brake shoe was bent!! Potentially that happened when I pulled the drum off or a previous mechanic did it when working on the handbrake cable ( it’s been binding for 18 months )!
Anyway, of course the brake pipe caught while removing it from the cylinder so a whole new pipe was required ( brake fluid in the eye isn’t great ).
So the new cylinder is on and new pipe made up and bled up. Now waiting for new shoes!
But at least I found something substantial so it will all be resolved soon before our Scotland trip in 2 weeks time

 

[yogi]

Backlash is about 10 degrees each way from centre when rotating prop shaft by hand. I drive sympathetically to it so don’t notice it normally but it’s there if you suddenly lift off or apply throttle quickly.
Will need to look at the transfer box to see if it’s just wear & tear or something to be concerned about

Mine is about the same tbh, and i spent ags fighting backlash in my 80, i reshimmed the transfer in it, adjusted the diff and still have it.

 

[Ben Stratford]

Mine is about the same tbh, and i spent ags fighting backlash in my 80, i reshimmed the transfer in it, adjusted the diff and still have it.

Yes it’s not a concern yet but how bad is bad? It’s not changed in 7 years though

 

[yogi]

Yes it’s not a concern yet but how bad is bad? It’s not changed in 7 years though

I think there always has to be some, once its not brand new, because the whole syatem is 'metal on metal'. Particularly in a manual. I can hide it, like you can by driving sympathetically, si it cannot be that bad

 

[Ben Stratford]

Lower tailgate had become so rusty I was expecting it to fall off. Took a while to find a good one to replace it with.

And After several days of work changing from a champagne colour to Toyota 153, I replaced it today:

Need a new number plate as the holes are in different locations which means the number plate is too low. Also need to stick on the GX badge. But quite pleased how it came out.
The paint prep was poor ( missed a small dent! ) and the painting too and the lacquer was spoilt by rain leaking through the shed roof on to it but I learnt a lot.
Better than the old one and with half a kilo of cavity wax inside it should last a while.
The upper tailgate is the next in line then the drivers door.

 

[felix2566]

Nice work so far!