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Boost setting?

Right the red light is back on the turbo gauge when change to third and floor it, I've replaced the standard air filter for a piper cross high flow filter as 30% more free air flow. It made huge difference if I'm honest to it. It pulls so much quicker, but..... The pain in the area red light has returned do I need to up the boost more than I have??more washers? Or do I save a little bit and get boost gauge?? Not sure how it has to be fitted tho? Easy? Will this remove the red light keep coming on?
 
I don't have a warning light so i don't know what it indicates but it does seem likely your boosting to much and if the turbo goes bang its game over . A 2mm thick washer is a guestimate safe zone mod if you have more than that i say reduce it until you get a gauge . You could borrow a gauge just to get a true reading and give it back the same day no need to wire it in or keep it at all just T it in to the vacuum pipe on your actuator .
 
The turbo light would indicate too much boost. Best to remove a washer or use a slightly slimmer one to reduce it a touch...

Alternatively I've read somewhere about tricking the ECU about the amount of boost it reads and therefore getting away with upping the actual boost. Need to investigate further though... Like Shayne's said, a gauge is a good idea as you're working a little blind at the moment and the last thing you want to do is blow a turbo, or worse, the engine!
 
Right we'll first thing this morning I've removed the washers back to how it sits standard it never came on until I altered my fuel screw so I'll test it shortly and update u on it? Could it also be that I'm still running standard exhaust or shall I get 3 inch one made?
 
You should get a 3" inch exhaust , make sure you do the dump pipe as well , you will find you are driving an entirely different beast without question its the best thing i ever did to my truck :thumbup:

I don't no where the turbo light sensor is but heat is likely what is lighting it up , could be that that you were boosting in the safe zone but giving it too much fuel . Both me and Beau have found turning up the fuel causes no ill effects but it goes against principal and the common acceptance that more fuel creates more heat . It's a can of worms when you start tuning these buggers because there are no set figures to give guidelines its just a mixture of luck fluke and instinct to get where you want to be .

Well done for removing the washers a timid and balanced approach is the best way forward as its all for nothing if it endangers reliability .
 
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Yea ur right there as I don't want to have any problems. I'm looking in to exhaust a customer of mine said he'll make it all from 3 inch 316 stainless just down pipe as that's all I'm running for £300 I duno if that's cheap?
Any way took it for a run after removing the washers and there's no light now so all safe I take it?? Lol
 
Sounds reasonable, but more on the expensive side if you ask me. For just a down pipe alone I'd think 200 is more reasonable. Some exhaust shops will do a complete exhaust from downpipe to tailpipe for around 500 pounds.

Improving your exhaust will mean your turbo will get up to boost faster and so it tends to improve low down throttle response. It'll also lower EGT's a considerable amount meaning you're a lot safer tweaking the fuel pump. If you really want to get your boost set properly and get the best out of your turbo, get a turbo bleed valve as well as a temp/permanent boost gauge and fit it in. You'll be able to tweak the boost to the ECU's Max, and you'll also stop the waste gate creeping open which typically can start from as little as 3-4psi.
 
300 just for the dump is too much its maybe a 6 hour round trip for you to Prospeed in Cardiff but Charlie there is the man you want the fella is an exhaust genius and will give you a lifetime guarantee .
 
Shayne said:
300 just for the dump is too much its maybe a 6 hour round trip for you to Prospeed in Cardiff but Charlie there is the man you want the fella is an exhaust genius and will give you a lifetime guarantee .
Click to expand...

I'm paying Charlie a visit on the 24th for a 3" dump pipe, exhaust refurbishment and he's changing my intercooler pipework for stainless with fewer joins which hopefully will improve the air flow.
 
Charlie made a template of mine Craig so i guess he could do a down pipe without seeing your truck but i would recommend a full system if you can stretch to it . Loud is good but can be a nuisance , what he made for me ticks over with a low muted rumble and i can leave the house at 5am without waking anyone but a blip of throttle at any time produces a roar that turns heads . It sounds ....... :think: ........ like a well tuned engine .
 
Yea that sounds good to me then ATM I run down pipe with a bike race end can lol
thanks for link I'll check it out now
 
How much to make a bump pipe and side exit pipe for my truck roughly then?
 
Yea pics look awesome shayne. Nice job I think I just want to enquire about a dump pipe and down pipe maybe tho then in time look at a side exit pipe to finish just inside rear passenger wheel
 
Chas if ur on here could you ask how much a 3" dump pipe and down pipe would be thanks
 
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