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Causes of Oil in expansion bottle

People seem to be suggesting things to check, like Bat21 but I don't see any replys saying these things have been checked....


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running with no transmission cooler for prolonged period at this weather will do no harm at all? i dont tow and im the only thing my truck is carrying 99% of the time lol green peace will be onto me very soon! :icon-biggrin:
 
People seem to be suggesting things to check, like Bat21 but I don't see any replys saying these things have been checked....


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i know mate sorry i work nights mostly and pretty dead during the days, ill do what were suggested and report back, thanks very much again peeps
 
Unfortunately there are THREE pressurised systems, engine oil pressure, cooling system AND the auto gearbox, the sump and general innards of the auto trans are at atmospheric however, there is a pump at the front, this pump provides pressure for the valve chest and a pressurised line to the cooler in the rad, hence my suggestion to narrow it down using the bypass method.

regards

Dave

Yes, my bad, I should have realised this though I don't know what sort of pressure the cooling circuit of the auto box runs at. If it's a secondary pumped circuit I'm assuming it won't be at too high a pressure. However if in the main hydraulic circuit it is presumably at pretty high pressure.
 
IIRC the pump pressure is regulated to around 25 psi for the cooler? The metal lines are often repaired with fuel line so not a massive pressure for sure, I think probably higher for the valve chest, auto's not my strong point.

regards

Dave
 
Hmm, so again there's going to be times when the cooling system is at lower pressure than the ATF cooler and times when it's higher. So both oil systems can get into the cooling circuit and both can get coolant into them.

Bit of potential for a mess then!

That 20/30 second engine run test sounds useful.
 
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Fluid line pressure in the various gear positions range from 53 to 242psi in the A440F and 63 to 178 psi in the A442F. No mention of pressure specs in the cooler line but it'll be much lower, probably between 10-20psi max would be my guess. JMO
 
If your buying a bit of pipe to bypass the oil cooler it might be an idea to put a bit of clear pipe between the radiators oil cooler lines as well so any leak there will collect and be obvious . I wouldn't expect the dipstisk to tell me much as i think coolant in black oil makes it go slightly brown and in new oil it goes slightly orange so i imagine you would need a glass full at least to determine whether or not it was the wrong colour .
 
Fluid line pressure in the various gear positions range from 53 to 242psi in the A440F and 63 to 178 psi in the A442F. No mention of pressure specs in the cooler line but it'll be much lower, probably between 10-20psi max would be my guess. JMO

I agree, as mentioned I have seen bypasses and connection to radiators that have been repaired with a piece of fuel line held with a couple of jubilee clips, here is no way they would have stayed fluid tight with over 100psi on them.

The clear pipe mentioned by Shane is a good idea to collect any water that enters the cooler, it will be under pressure if there is a leak but some water should collect, it would not take a lot to prove the rad is bad.

regards

Dave
 
If this was my truck (which i intend to keep forever) i would cut the chase and replace the rad , they don't last forever so even if it doesn't cure the problem it can be crossed off the list of suspects for many years to come . Then if the problem persisted i would ask myself where else other than the head (which for me is the stuff nightmares are made of) might coolant and oil come into contact - water pump ? oil pump ?
 
I've been down the cheap rad route both with the A/C and engine. Not worth it. It's a hard truth that these cars can be expensive to run. I've recently bought a genuine Toyota engine rad and A/C condenser.
 
I've been down the cheap rad route both with the A/C and engine. Not worth it. It's a hard truth that these cars can be expensive to run. I've recently bought a genuine Toyota engine rad and A/C condenser.

may i ask how much for them 2 items????? just bought myself 2 inner axle seals from toyota for nearly 40 quids! had 3 from milner for around 3 quids each, done job twice and still leaking!
 
When my rad failed (big time with a 2" split in the header tank) I lashed out on a Mr. T replacement.

Maybe OTT at 500 Euros, but I sleep at night and the truck hasn't missed a beat 2 years since.
 
Genuine Toyota Dealer charged me :-

Engine radiator £370 incl VAT
Air Con condenser £306 incl VAT.

1995 24v diesel.

That was after a discount which I had to ask for.
 
may i ask how much for them 2 items????? just bought myself 2 inner axle seals from toyota for nearly 40 quids! had 3 from milner for around 3 quids each, done job twice and still leaking!

The OE Toyota inner axle seal has a 'floating' inner a little like a quality sound speaker, the Milner's are typical seals and do not follow the axle movement very well, also check your axle breathers are clear, if not then no seals will stop the leaking.

regards

Dave
 
in process of buying a house then relocate, might as well lol its just money anyway! lol
 
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