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Key fob immobilizer just died ?

Going on all thats been said here it seems to me the key of a 90 is nothing more than a key , a mechanical lever to open a mechanical lock . The alarm and central locking etc are all remote devices that must be synched with the fob alone . To support this my fob died so i opened the door with the key in the good old fashioned way . The electrickery didn't like this because the truck had been locked and alarms set using the remote so sounded the alarm for 30 seconds . Nevertheless i could still start the truck using the key . The key and the fob are two entirely different and unrelated parts i reckon ?

I took my spare fob to the cobbler in Morrisons and he was happy to reset it without even asking a question about codes or anything until he decided the fob was dead . Maybe they can read the code from the fob itself on an original fob , i don't know , or maybe they just reset it to a general setting ?
 
Going on all thats been said here it seems to me the key of a 90 is nothing more than a key , a mechanical lever to open a mechanical lock . The alarm and central locking etc are all remote devices that must be synched with the fob alone . To support this my fob died so i opened the door with the key in the good old fashioned way . The electrickery didn't like this because the truck had been locked and alarms set using the remote so sounded the alarm for 30 seconds . Nevertheless i could still start the truck using the key . The key and the fob are two entirely different and unrelated parts i reckon ?

I took my spare fob to the cobbler in Morrisons and he was happy to reset it without even asking a question about codes or anything until he decided the fob was dead . Maybe they can read the code from the fob itself on an original fob , i don't know , or maybe they just reset it to a general setting ?

The alarm and immobiliser are, indeed, seperate systems. The key is not " just a mechanical lever to open the locks", It immobilses the car via a transponder and ECU. The immobilser ECU neither knows nor cares wether the alarm is going off or not.
I'm curious, how did a cobbler in Morrisons 'reset' you're fob?
 
Dunno how they do it Towpack because my fob was actually bust so he advised me to send to his mate for refurbishment and gave me a number , i didn't bother . But while i was waiting i noticed he would point the fobs at some sort of receiver until it eventually flashed then he would put the fob beneath the counter and go on his laptop ?
 
Maybe but you still need a master to programme in new keys, so the ECU must know which key is in the ign. It must know this by reading the key.
err, yes that's why I said you put a master key in the ignition to do it :icon-wink:
 
It's easy to do yourself on an 80 and I think they used the same basic system for quite a few years, stick a master key in, turn it so many times, open and close the door so many times, stick the new key in, wait a minute, take key out, open and close door, job done. Slightly different sequence to erase all the other keys just shorter. In terms of this programming of the immobiliser ECU the designation of master key or not is purely how the ECU was programmed it is not determined by the keys themselves. From the factory the programming has all the black keys as masters and the grey ones are not but a PO could have bought a new black key and had it programmed as a sub key or a grey key and had it programmed in as a master for example. There are physical differences between the black and grey keys so that the grey won't open the glovebox but that doesn't determine its immobiliser ECU status. On an 80 if you poke a wire in the right hole and put your key in the ignition you can read a code to know if it is a master, sub or unrecognised key so the same thing probably exists for 90's.
Lol :icon-smile: The things we should have chatted about this morning instead of all that green lane nonsense!!! You'll have to add the second key to the headrest foe-par as I was not aware until I went to pick the truck up, deal done and hands shook :icon-biggrin: Things you should ask when buying a car, does it have an MOT, is it TAX'd, are you the owner, is there anything not working or faulty, do you have all the keys and are all of the headrests present. I really did buy this one with the heart :icon-biggrin: Still can't believe I didn't notice three headrests were missing :laughing-rolling:
 
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You're very welcome Shayne - glad your fobs are sorted now.

I was really happy with the service and VFM I received, so was more than willing to recommend. :thumbup:
 
Hey guys,
So Key fob guy on ebay does not do this anymore apparently.
Anyone know anybody else who can refurb key fobs for an 80 series?
Thanks
 
The Timpsons shoe repair and key cutting guy in morrisons can probably point you in the right direction my local one gave me a number when a new battery didn't help .
 
Okay, so had the afternoon today to try and get the newly refurbished key fobs to work.
All went well, car needed a clean so took out both drivers and passengers seat and middle console to gain access to the unit.

IMG_4122.jpgIMG_4123.jpgIMG_4125.jpg

So I have the TVSS/3-B Alarm unit. Also in the picture is the Motion sensor and the glass breaking Sensor.
Anyway, all went well. Deleted previous remote codes from the system and installed the two
re-furbished remotes.

All great I thought! No! :x

So both the new Key fobs unlock the central locking but neither of them Lock the car! Tried a few times to reprogram then but still the same thing keeps happening.

Anyone know what I may be doing wrong, surely if the remotes unlock all the doors they should lock them again?
 
With the 90 series you just hold both lock and unlock on the fob down for a few seconds to re-synch . The refurbished fobs , assuming they are your original keys , would not have a different code so i can't imagine why you went near the tvss box , you shouldn't have needed to ?
 
Does the central locking work to lock when you use the button on the drivers door control panel?

Remote locking could be inhibited for some reason, like it thinking a door is still open.
 
With the 90 series you just hold both lock and unlock on the fob down for a few seconds to re-synch . The refurbished fobs , assuming they are your original keys , would not have a different code so i can't imagine why you went near the tvss box , you shouldn't have needed to ?

Hi Shayne, should have said, it is a 1997 80 Series, Keys and Fobs are separate items. The fobs were completely gone so all new internals basically.
 
Does the central locking work to lock when you use the button on the drivers door control panel?

Remote locking could be inhibited for some reason, like it thinking a door is still open.

Hi Jon, yep button by window controls locks and unlocks all doors, I think its something to do with the signal, even with doors open if you press the unlock button you hear the locks clunk-click and get a flash from the indicators, pressing the locking button is a dead silence but I get a light on the remote, no light from the inside alarm light.
 
Hi Jon, yep button by window controls locks and unlocks all doors, I think its something to do with the signal, even with doors open if you press the unlock button you hear the locks clunk-click and get a flash from the indicators, pressing the locking button is a dead silence but I get a light on the remote, no light from the inside alarm light.
Remote unlock works with doors open but remote lock is inhibited with a door open.
 
You had me second guessing myself there Jon, Thought maybe it was because I had the bonnet open but just tried now. Unlocks but does not lock on either of the remotes. Will have a bit more of a dig and see what I can find.
 
Costs nothing to try holding the buttons down , will it work while keys are in the ignition ? , put all your lights on and disconnect both terminals of the battery for a bit , touch the battery leads together and if there's no spark there's no residue power that the box might use to remember a fault code . It's guess work but these are things i would try before messing with the box .
 
Costs nothing to try holding the buttons down , will it work while keys are in the ignition ? , put all your lights on and disconnect both terminals of the battery for a bit , touch the battery leads together and if there's no spark there's no residue power that the box might use to remember a fault code . It's guess work but these are things i would try before messing with the box .

Tried all that already Shayne. Had to get to the box to wipe the previous key fobs anyway.
Also to note that I forgot to mention, before key fobs were re-conned one worked and one did not. The working one would only open and would not close.
 
Too much of a coincidence i'd be looking for a broken wire between the box and the doors , surely lock and unlock can't use the same wires or fobs would only have one button ?
 
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