There are a lot of guides around, download the FSM and go at it. It really is straightforward, but dont try and do half the job.
There are a couple of tricks that are often missed, just put these in between the FSM instructions as you go.
Once you have removed the wheels and calipers mark the disc with reference to one of the studs, and you have cleaned inside and checked all shoe to backplate contact points and where they sit on their supports have been greased, and checking the cantilever on the differential case is well greased and moving freely, only now before refitting the disc get a good grasp on the direction to turn the adjuster wheel to expand and contract the shoes, now dab some typex or white paint on the adjuster, and on the bottom of the backplate, so much easier to align and see the adjuster when the disc is on. Now turn the adjuster until the brake disc just slips on, that is disc on no binding, remove disc and expand shoes, do this until the disc slips and off and rotates comfortably. Remember to align the marked hole and stud and fit the discs for the last time, now fit a couple of spacers on the studs on each side and put wheel nuts on top of them, no need to make them tight, just nip them up, only when both discs are secured operate the handbrake a few times, this ensures the shoes are taking up their correct position within the drum. The spacers and nuts do not allow the drum/disc to tilt stopping the shoes from moving correctly. Repeat the adjustment through the access hole but leaving the disc bolted in place, the white typex or whatever you used will help make this a speedy job, after each adjustment as you can feel or even hear the shoes touching the drum, return to the handbrake and operate it a few times, dont be to gentle here either. Now if you find one or both of the brakes are binding (not getting confused with the weight of the drivetrain) despite doing the above, it is possible the lining inside the handbrake cable is worn and binding, replace if need be. Whilst the book says '8 or 9' clicks at the handbrake, aim for six or 7. With the handbrake off the brakes should not be binding, an almost inaudible rubbing sound is ok.
This may seem a little laborious, but this is a system that works for me and my customers cars, the only time I clean and reset the adjustment is when the brake pads need replacing, between this period the handbrake works well. Many owners of automatics just use 'Park' as a handbrake, the result is often a seriously out of balance handbrake at test time.
On my opinion, the 80 is one of the really worthwhile 'hands on' vehicles to own, if you can read, then get your marigolds on and give it ago.
Regards
Dave
