Paul's 80 photo thread

[pberrey]

Looking backwards:

A quick coat of varnish:

My wood burner has arrived. It will fit into the narrow side of the storage "drawers" if i cut out a piece in the top for the chimney.

Cooks ok but needs a roaring fire to boil water directly from the hotplate

 

[clivehorridge]

Looks good there, best leave a window ajar when you fire up the stove

 

[pberrey]

Lol, I may cut a hole in the roof Clive.


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[Chris]

 

[pberrey]

I had a spare H4 hi/lo HID kit that I thought would make a useful upgrade and compliment the LED lightbar.

You can just see the relay and one of the ballasts here:

And the final result (on main beam):

Paul


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[pberrey]

Whilst I was outside I removed all the pipe work on the intake side of the engine to clean out any oil residue and ensure the breather pipes weren't blocked. There was some oil but it wasn't excessive and a night drive to test the lights didn't show any exhaust smoke. So whilst the turbo doesn't have any play it does seem to be linked to my exhaust smoke problem. I'm going to monitor it during the week and inspect it for oil build again up at the Adventure Overland show next weekend.

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[Chris]

See you there!

 

[pberrey]

Definitely Chris!

I plan to be there at 6pm on Friday and stay until mid Sunday morning. Please feel free to park up by me if you won't already be there by then. I will have my 3x3m blue gazebo up with warm beer and cold fire on tap.

Same goes for everyone on the forum. The more, the merrier.

 

[Dave Burgess]

Hi pberrey i seriously need to do this myself and so have spent a good few hours reading up on the best products to use . Trusting boat forums over most other stuff on the web as salt water is a killer and boats can't avoid it , they seem to think Fertan rust converter is the best around and as i've never heard of it i thought it worth a mention .

I've used Fertan (on a boat) and it is very good stuff, the view of the narrowboat community recommends Vactan (both of which have tannic acid in to neutralise rust). The classic car fraternity recommend POR-15 or DEOX-C neither of which I've used but the DEOX-C is waterbased and comes as a powder so might be easier to use.

I need to do it too - not looking forward to it!

 

[Shayne]

I used Fertan with great results , just put it in a bathroom squirty bottle and cover all around the rear axle with it . It reacts with water so it being a hot day i blasted the road around the truck a few times to keep it damp with a pressure washer , then when everything went grey/silver the pressure washer just blasted all the dust that was once rust away . Best thing about it is it allows you to do a bit at a time and protects the metal without overcoating for up to 6 months . Saves allotting an entire weekend to a big job just do a bit at a time when the weathers nice

 

[Tractionman]

Have used Aquasteel, after using many others over the years, also with excellent results.
Used on oil rigs and other underwater structures, where totally immersed for long periods.

John

 

[byrnieman]

Awesome thread mate!

 

[pberrey]

Not a huge amount going on in the last couple of weeks on the Landcruiser front but I have installed an oil catch can and ordered two replacement starter batteries.

Paul


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[pberrey]

Well I'll be damned. It turns out that swapping your batteries at 23:30 on a school night isn't a good idea. The terminals on my old batteries are towards the rear of the engine bay and the new Varta G7 & G8s are towards the front. The upshot is that my wiring is about two inches too short. The old batteries are back in and I should be able to re-route the wiring at the weekend.

 

[Julian T]

Would swapping the batteries side to side and turning them around not work?

 

[pberrey]

Yes Julian, I was just too tired to realise it at the time. I stood there for a minute looking at them on the floor thinking this should work.

It occurred to me whilst I was asleep on the train going into work on the following morning

 

[pberrey]

Time for a bit of an update:
- The HID upgrade is excellent. It is twice as bright and has a better beam pattern than the standard H4 bulbs i took out. It also draws less current at 35w.
- I seem to have a heavy breather but since I have added the oil catch tank and the oil level has dropped below the full mark I'm not getting oil smoke out of the exhaust. Im sure the turbo/valves/seals etc aren't going to last forever but it seems fine now.
- My old batteries were dead, or at least one of them was. The thing starts in half a second on the new Vartas and lots of back to back short journeys aren't giving them any problems at all.
- I have ordered a 4x4 Specialist bumper which should be here just before Christmas

Oh yeah.


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[iceman]

Great build - ps what happened to your light bar?

 

[Geert]

I think the last pic wasn't off his truck

 

[pberrey]

This weekend's project is a to replace all four prop UJs and both differential pinion bearings and seals.

UJs are Toyo and GMB, the bearings are NTN and Koyo. All purchased from Roughtrax and delivered in 48 hours. A nice touch was a double sided instruction sheet for replacing UJs.

Shame it's freezing outside...

Paul


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