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Uj's, Cv's or wind up

will have a proper look in the morning ....

if it does turn out to be the Cv's, ... they were only fitted in November 2013. .. so not 1 year old yet.
and they are the HDK joints that I got from "Rough Tracks" ... deffo not been abused out on play n pay sites either .
 
Here's my HDK one.

Shagged CV.JPG

I wasn't off roading with it either. It was pretty new. When I posted it, I was met with a chorus of 'Mine have been fine' Figured I'd had a bad one. Soft as soap when I cut it with a hacksaw. I thought they look very good when I bought them, but wouldn't put another one in.
 
Right. .... looks a bit of a mess that Chris. ..

I'm guessing the genuine Mr T ones are quite expensive ??
 
Uhm, yes. Quite.

Problem is that there is no mid priced option. Why isn't there a decent, say £120 version. They are either gen and horrifically priced or cheap crap.

I had no warning on this one. Drove home in the snow, next day reversed out of the drive and got exactly the noise you have. OK it may turn out to be something else, but that's what I got.
 
truck was fine today .... just the last bit turning into our drive way where I felt/heard the clang from the front ...
 
Uhm, yes. Quite.

Problem is that there is no mid priced option. Why isn't there a decent, say £120 version. They are either gen and horrifically priced or cheap crap.
all-american imports in the Netherlands sell genuine toyota land cruiser parts which they import directly from Japan.
they are my mid priced option. If I call them in the morning, the parts are at my adress the next day. 13€ delivery costs to Belgium. Don't know how much to UK.
They only sell land cruiser parts. http://all-american.nl
I'll give them a call today for the price. My left front CV is clicking in low gear with full turn, so might swap it before it breaks.
 
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A faulty dif lock or VSC might have caused this. Point is to test them all after it's been rebuilt.
 
Hi, just had a phone call to all american imports for a CV
349€ + 29€ postage + VAT=453,6€ for original toyota part (oops think I'll have to redefine 'midprice')
delivery time 3-4 days
Wow, it's definitely more expensive than the cv's I bought for my HZJ75!
 
Cv has failed! The inner cage failed to be specific. (Will upload a pic when i'm at home)

Should i still get drive without locking the centre and one front cv joint missing ??
 
In theory no.

I would recommend you don't drive it anywhere, until it's fixed. :eusa-naughty:

I drove on a broken CV using the CDL and damaged a good driveshaft in the process, had to change the shaft and CV in the end. I didn't have any choice, other than having the truck recovered.
 
I took the broken CV joint out this morning before I drove anywhere .....
 
Seen the pic on fb! Quite a mess!!
Problem with driving it is you need to stop the diff oil getting out with no shaft.
 
You will get some drive as you have the centre viscous coupling but slight hill and you will slow to a stop
I took my front diff out and the shafts etc when mine went. Interesting to see how much drive you actually get with no middle diff locked
 
The VC is supposed to send up to 30% of the available torque to the axle with grip. I suspect running with the CD open and no drive to the front (front prop/diff/axle shaft removed) could risk damaging the unit. It's designed for slippery on-road conditions where the slip between front and rear is relatively small compared to off-roading where one or more wheels can lose grip completely in deep mud or being airborne etc. JMO
 
Don't think I was suggesting that this was a great idea. Simply that the VC will provide drive and therefore serving to consider when diagnosing drive train issues
My GS doesn't have one and behaves differently. But at some point soon it should have
 
While parking my previous Disco in Graves Park some years ago I managed to run over a large stone block just inboard of the front OS wheel (don't ask) which jammed under the radius arm, lifting the wheel off the ground. Locking the CD enabled me to reverse off but without it I was stranded with a spinning front wheel. Difficult to say if the VC in the LC's CD would have gotten me out of the same situation as I was also facing downhill. On level ground I reckon it would have. I do know the LC performs better in snow without locked diffs than the Disco did on similar patterned tyres.
 
I agree the vc really does come into its own on snow
It's there all the time doing its thing without you even realising it
 
Some one said (think it was you Chris) that I should lose momentum whist going up hill without the centre locked ....

well I can confirm that I did not lose momentum going up hill .... had to stop at temporary lights due to road works on a fairly steep incline .. yet I was able to pull away from a standstill without struggling and keep up with other traffic. ....
And I was able to power up a twisty 1/4 mile 1in4 without any issues
would this mean my centre could be stuck (which could explain the failed CV joint)
 
Sounds like you've got a seized viscous coupling or locked centre dif. They work in parallel not series. The viscous coupling is easy to take out but is difficult to check on the bench as it has high turning resistance. If you take it out you can reassemble and you should have no drive at all if the centre dif is unlocked.
 
That doesn't sound like normal VC operation IMO. With only 30% of the available drive going to the rear (the rest being 'lost' in the open front diff with the missing halfshaft) I would expect some loss of performance, especially up a 1 in 4 hill! You mention in post 10 that, with one rear wheel off the ground you felt it lock against the diff? Assuming the mechanical CD lock is not stuck on with no dash warning light, it should turn with some resistance, if not, the VC has seized.
 
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