Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Broken my 80 AGAIN

Chris

Super Moderator
Supporter
Joined
Feb 24, 2010
Messages
17,937
Garage
Country Flag
great_britain
This is becoming frustrating. Not actually sure how I did this, but it seems that I end up building my front axle every 1000 miles. Was going to Scotland in it next week but that's not going to happen now.
I was getting an odd noise on the over run recently and couldn't find the cause. Then last week I went out to rescue a Disco in the Peaks. One the way back I recovered an Evoke nose down in a ditch. I may have done something there when a wheel spun and snagged. It seemed to drive OK but with a funny noise as I pulled away. Then when I turned into the drive I got clonk clonk clonk.

I figured it to be a CV and planned to fix it this weekend. Overnight we had 6" of snow, but undeterred I set off for Milners. Pretty soon, it became apparent that I only had 2x4. I stuck the CD in and it was better but odd. And noises started to develop. I turned back and decided to pop in an emergency old spare CV. I pulled the NS and found that whilst it looked ok the CV was very very stiff and could barely move it around. I stuck that in and it was no better. So this morning I drained the diff oil and found a tooth in it. When I pulled the other CV on the OS I found this.

Shagged CV.jpg

I've never seen a CV like this. The inner 'spider' had totally disintegrated and was in about 6 pieces. The inner of the swivel isn't too bad, but it had bust a swivel bearing and battered the inner axle oil seal and seat which needed cleaning up. Grease has been washed in to the oil too. But worst of all, it's chipped off half a tooth on my new 4.56 JW diff.

On a good note, I fully stripped the axle and had the diff out in just under 2 hours.

These CVs looked very good when I got them and I was impressed with the appearance. But I rather think that they have failed and taken the diff with them. They were the HDK ones from Milner which had good reviews.

So, out with the wallet I guess.

Chris
 
Well actually I winched him out. I have told many people about the perils of snatching in reverse. But on this occasion I was on packed snow - you know the zero grip stuff. As I was moving around, someone who turned up to help was chucking grit salt about and I think I grabbed a tyre full of grip at one point. It's really hard to say.

That is what I'd call catastrophic failure and I certainly don't recall that happening. Needless to say I could not believe my eyes when I opened the hub.

Chris
 
That is a lot of failure for very little action! Did bits of the cv end up in with the diff,or do you think the recoil when cv let go did the diff?
 
Not good Chris. is it the 37" tyres your running putting a lot of strain on the cv's? and didnt Ian have problems with cv's even the heavy duty ones.
 
Did you find this by any chance:

DSC08335.JPG

It's what happens when you use cheap CVs... I am very surprised that it took you this long to break your bargain HDKs, but you do have a very relaxed driving style when compared to Ian or Ben so I guess it's not too surprising. I think you need genuine CVs at the very least with those monster tyres, or perhaps Longfield driveshafts? http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/products.php?product=FJ-80-4340-CHROMOLY-4-PIECE-SUPER-SET Ian still managed to break them but it's Ian we are talking about, in a green manual tonka truck. Yours is grey, auto and your name is Chris so they should be fine:think:
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Pretty much in the same league as one I did in my Defender....

CV.jpg

That was a GKN one so not even cheap....
 
Well to start with, I wasn't on my 37's. Secondly, I had been out all day and the truck was driving faultlessly. Other then (as I posted on another thread) a strange noise on the over run with CD locked.

Rob - I have a bucket of parts just like those! But they don't seem to have ended up in the diff. Only the spring from the inner oil seal made it through. I shall have the broken tooth looked at. Not sure it was an instant failure.

Cheap CVs, well I think we have proven in the past that the CV is weaker than the rest of the drive train. Which is good unless you use Mr T OE. Circa £500. These HDK ones were much fancied by people at the time. But looking at the casing which has split right open, I have to think that they are crap. They look very soft. Do you get a MUCH better CV for £500? Err no. But where I have had failures in the past they haven't really caused further damage. I can't tell the chain of events here nor how long this has taken. I just can't couple it with any particular event.

Might have to put the old 4.3 diffs back in for now. What a pain.
 
£500 should be enough for 2 genuine CVs if you know the right people :icon-wink:. For an overlander I would could not recommend anything else but for a toy it's more difficult to justify. However the Longfields come with a lifetime warranty even if you break them and probably wear out as quickly as cheap CVs (wear is not cover by warranty from what Ian has told me so perfect for a toy).

I broke my almost brand new Milner CV with 285 all terrains and I was being sensible. Given the new genuine ones a hell of a lot more abuse and they have been fine so far...
 
Still a lot of dosh Rob. But for an overland trip, I'd agree that it's worth putting in the budget. If they didn't bust anything else in the drive line as they have on this occasion, I'd just keep sticking cheap (£70) ones in I think. Just looked at the Longfields. Ouch.

Need to fix the diff first.

Chris
 
I used to go through "budget" CVs regularly. Once I changed to Longfields I only had one failure over a period of several years. Even when it did fail it was a very neat failure, the shaft had a clean break and the spider cracked. They replaced the failed shaft and CV foc but I did have to pay shipping and import duty. They annoyingly declared full retail value on the customs form rather than foc replacement.

While it was a big initial outlay, the saving in time of not having to replace a joint every few months was worth it to me. Also knowing the cv joints were very unlikely to explode what ever I did was comforting.

Ian
 
never managed to break a genuine or Longfield CV on my old 80.
 
Understand and completely agree Ian. It's just it is a big outlay along with everything else that I am doing at the minute. Oh you know, kids, university, driving lessons blah blah. I need to get the diff fixed first. If I can't then I shall be going back to 4.3s and normal tyres! So there won't be any off roading.
Poor old truck has taken such a battering that it brings a tear to my eye. Maybe I need to ease back a little and tone it down.

Nah.

Chris
 
So how many CVs have you broken Chris? I thought this is the first time? If not CVs what else have you broken on the front axle?
 
No not the first time Rob. I had to change some originals quite early on before they actually failed and then the was the epic fail where the stub axle section snapped. Remember that one? Spiral fracture.

But in terms of nice new shiny ones that I have been responsible for their whole service, these are technically the first. The rest have been odds and sods. So pretty cheap. It's the cost to the diff that's the issue now. I don't really know why it's bust. I shall take a proper pick of the break. My F.I.L is a metalugist and rom the fuzzy pic I showed him, he doesn't think it's one clean break.

Chris
 
Can't remember your original CV failure Chris, must of missed it or been a while ago. Got a link?
 
Nasty failure! Used to break a few on the troopers but luckily when they went it just spat bits everywhere.

Are the cvs worth changing when strip axle to do seals etc? Heard about swapping them side to side?.
 
This one Rob?
Sorry, it's on the p***. Turn your head.

Stub.JPG
 
YYY
Back
Top