Help to consider amount of rust

[Joakim Forøysund]

Hello all! This is my first post here. I consider to buy a 1998 Land Cruiser 90 after dreaming about Land Cruisers for several years. The one I’m looking at needs som work, but it shouldn’t be too much. I’m not experienced in assessing frames with regards to rust, but this one seems to be in overall good shape for my untrained eye. I have not yet used any tools to see if the rust comes loose. Is there anything the more experienced of you can say about this? I took pictures of the worst parts. Any guidance is appreciated!

 

[Joakim Forøysund]

This is the automatic transmissions oil cooler. The brown ring around the tube - is that rust or a protruding gasket? I believe this cooler should be replaced. Any thoughts on this?

 

[Shayne]

Hi Joakim looks to me like you found that one in good time to save it so long as you plan to clean up the rust and get busy with a paint brush .

I don't know much about auto's but if its a 1kz-te engine radiators rotting internally letting coolant into the gearbox is a known problem with them so your wise to be suspect .

Probably wants new shocks and new bushes all around to just so you know what your getting yourself into .

 

[Joakim Forøysund]

Thanks Shayne! Yes, Bushings and probably shocks need some attention. One stabilizer link is rusted completely off in front. The coolant pipes for the rear heater need to be replaced, and the rear diff seal is leaky. Some work is definitely required, but I suspect this is a chance to get a decent Land Cruiser for a reasonable price.

More questions to come, I’m sure. Any further advice on this topic is appreciated

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Welcome Joakim, as far as 90's go, I've seen very few better and a great many a lot worse. If you purchase this 90 I'd get some remedial work done as soon as possible at halt the march of the tin worm. This should then give you a 90 to last for years.

 

[Joakim Forøysund]

Thanks Andy! I presume I’ll clean and brush thoroughly before treating with Fluid Film NAS, if I buy this one. I’ve used Fluid Film before and it’s remarkable. Are there any openings to access the inside of the body underneath the doors (not sure what it’s called, picture 4, next to the sidestep)? Or can I optionally drill holes somewhere to clean and apply oil on the inside?

 

[Shayne]

Were i to start again I'd go at the rust with a wire brush/grinder whatever paint Zinger on clean metal then cover that with a good chassis paint - then go for Krown or Nas film and forget about it for 20 years or more .

 

[AdventureWagon]

Check the fluids especially the radiator coolant and ATF (get a bit out using the dipstick and study).

Also check the towbar tounge is not rusted in, mine was such solid and the tounge was badly rusted away even though we don't get as many rust issues here as opposed to Europe.

I had to buy a replacement towbar from a local scrap yard.

 

[Joakim Forøysund]

Check the fluids especially the radiator coolant and ATF (get a bit out using the dipstick and study).

I presume you mean check color and such? Oils seem to have good color on this one, and levels are okay. Coolant was below fill line, but I am not sure whether this is due to failure or that the car has not been used in a while (evaporation..?).

Any other tips on checking the head for cracks etc (1KZ-TE engine)?

Did any of these cars have galvanized frame?

Thanks for all replies, I really appreciate it! Great to come across such a vivid and active forum! I feel most welcome

 

[AdventureWagon]

Yes indeed check colour and check it's not milky etc. Same with coolant check it looks ok and not mixed with oil. Also check oil cap and engine oil to make sure it's not milky.

I'm sorry I don't know much about that engine but a compression test might help with identifying head cracks.

Not sure about the frame being galvanised, mine has some kind of black coating on it looks like a sprayed underbody liner but this may be aftermarket.

 

[Joakim Forøysund]

Thanks AdventureWagon and Shayne!

 

[Shayne]

We all wish for a galvanized frame but it was never an option , Zinga paint on galvanize is supposed to be as good and my own experience with it suggests it might well be .

 

[clivehorridge]

The last autobox I saw with water in it, the ATF looked like a beige color mayonnaise.

Trouble is, once the water is in there, it’s just about too late. I’d find someone to pressure test the bottom tank of the radiator to be sure there’s no leaks into the ATF oil cooler which is inside the bottom rad tank.

Personally, I’d save my pennies and buy a remote oil cooler and find somewhere suitable to mount it, or replace the radiator with a new one as a matter of course.

Either of these options are a lot cheaper than a gearbox build.

 

[Joakim Forøysund]

Thanks Clive. That is exactly what I read somewhere - replacing the radiator every ten years or so just to be sure. You don`t happen to know a link to someone who has replaced the radiator with a remote cooler, do you? Just for inspiration?

 

[Finiterex]

I wish mine looked as clean! Might want to check the arches and sills behind the plastics.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

My D4D had the remote cooler fitted. Like a small radiator fastened to the main radiator at the bottom with fasteners ( plastic) which went through the fins of the main rad. Havn't got a pic and its long gone now.
Keeping the coolant up to scratch should negate the problem.

 

[uHu]

The "shared main radiator system" works for heating the ATF / auto box in the winter, which you loose with a dedicated separate cooler for the transmission. I do not know how big that problem might be, if it exists at all.

Assuming you read norsk, here's a short discussion on the matter: http://nlck.no/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=9431&hilit=*kjøler*

(Sorry for polluting the forum with foreign words)

 

[Joakim Forøysund]

Since the car is meant for everyday use in a part of the world where sub-zero temperatures are common year around, the heating matter is probably quite important. I have searched around the nlck.no forum, but haven't come across this thread -thanks uHu. You don`t happen to have an idea how this instance would be judged in periodic roadworthiness test (EU-kontroll) in Norway?

Since I cannot be sure whether this radiator has been changed before I guess the safest bet is to replace it before anything fails. It is not too expensive anyway.