F+R Diff Lock

[Tom Burnet]

Ok.. Sooooo I may have got a little stuck recently (my fault...shamingly had to get pulled out by land rover owners but we don't talk about that..) .. I quickly relised my lockers were not working.

Centre lock - works great, light on, abs light on, engaged fine.
R Diff lock - light flashing, but clicking coming when trying to engage (assuming relay?)
F Diff lock - light flashing, clicking noice when trying to engage (assuming relay?)

Does anybody have any expertise advise they can pass on to help me diagnose and fix this?
I'm assuming that the 1 previous owner never, or very rarely, used the diff locks as he drove it from home to work everyday and that was it. I intend to use it slightly differently but would like to have everything working of course

Thanks in advance!

 

[fbnss]

Haha, saw that one too!

 

[Tom Burnet]

Haha, saw that one too!

 

[Firewout]

Stuck/corroded actuators. Use a lot of wd40 or similar to loosen the bolts.
When you open the actuator, make sure to mark the position and orientation of the magnets. They come loose but you can glue them back in.
Use the search function on this forum, lots of info about it.
Also check the wiring. The loom on my rear axle had melted a little so had to replace some wiring.
Diff lock cpu is behind right kick panel in footwell.
Open it and check for burn spots on the relays. I had to replace one.
Good luck!

 

[Josh Tagg]

There's a very good chance the actuators have disintegrated from the inside out, very prone too it I'm afraid and they ain't cheap. Check all the wiring too it first as someone had cut it on my pickup, unfortunately it still didn't work after id repaired that and wanted an actuator.

 

[Josh Tagg]

It may look as grim as this

 

[Firewout]

 

[Firewout]

Cpu with replaced relay

 

[hodgy0_2]

if you get under the car, you should hear the spring wind up, as the actuator rod gets primed by the motor ( get someone to activate the switch - or better still "hack" the loom under the car, that will bypass a dodgy switch)

I rebuilt my rear one from my old 80 - it was seized solid and full of rusty gunge (there is a pic of it on the IHMUD website) so they can be brought back to life from a really poor state

one note of caution the cover is very soft and you can strip threads etc really easily

 

[nielsc]

Most of the time it's the magnets falling loose in the electric motor cap. I would check that first, it's the easiest.