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R56 is a different diff, yours is R17 which is the 4.300 diff R16 is the 4.100 diff. You need an R17 which are most common.

Sounds a bit like what mine did except mine happened in about 10 seconds on a motorway. What happened with mine was the oil leaked out the nearside oil seal and the bearing gave up. You need to get the plug out and check for oil at least. Mine was a horrible burnt grease with shards of diff...

Mine is manual.

Mine have been like that for as long as I have had the vehicle. I don't notice it under heavy braking but only when coming to a halt behind a vehicle in traffic at low speed <10mph. I get the exact same feeling and I have no ABS on mine so it can't be that. Maybe they all do that sir?

Looks to be 50 odd for each of the front lines and 25 odd for the rear lines. Not too bad.

You sure that its not just the flexible rubber brake line that is starting to crack?

No the T-belt breaking will cause damage, the loading on the belt is not bad though. Job is easy to do. I think Bob Murphy has a Pictorial how-to somewhere on here. Diesel pump is driven by gears from the engine, the belt drives the cam. It takes about 20 mins to do. putting the light out in...

That makes much more sense, I saw on an Aussie forum that another mod that they do is to fit a steering fluid cooler as well. A auto tranny cooler isn't very big and should stop the likelihood of water contaminating the fluid.

I think the pressure referred to is the Hyperbaric pressure, ie the weather. 1014 millibars etc.

Great post Bob. You have obviously given this a lot of thought. I wonder if you could fit up a temp sender in the top rad hose outlet in the boss before the diagnostic port, this would give you an idea of how hot the coolant gets exiting the head and maybe more importantly how fast it gets hot...

Pete, a quick way of determining ratios is to look at the little white sticker on the underside of the diff extension. It will say R16 or R17, R16 is 4.100 and R17 is 4.300 Some of the Japanese import autos have R16 diffs I know because I got one from a scrapper. Check your own front diff tube...

Don't discount KYB (Kayaba) shocks, they are very reasonably priced, I think they could be the OEM shocks but not sure on that.

I got one from Milners and it was also branded Toyo. Toyo seem to make bearings everywhere incuding India looking at the website. http://www.toyobearings.com/ If and when I need to replace it I will fit genuine Toyota ones not the spurious.

I just did all the trans fluids about 4 weeks ago, when I replaced the front diff. I agree that 1.1 litres isn't much for a front diff but thats all they hold hence the reason I am going full synthetic Mobil 1 SHC. If you think you can get 2.9 litres into the front diff then buy 2.9 litres the...

Front Diff is only 1.1 litres,Rear Diff 2.6litres. 7.5 litres engine with filter change Gearbox 2.2 litres Transfer 1.1ish I used 80w90 GL5 for the diffs and 75w for the Gear and transfer boxes. I am going to drain the front diff and refill with Mobil SHC 75w-90 full synthetic in the next...

I had the same problem with an aftermarket aerial I got off ebay to replace a BERU one. The drive kept clicking and grinding away both at the top and bottom of the travel. I think the clutch is knackered inside now as it won't extend without help. Those ebay aerials are crap as well, mine is...

I don't know if this helps but my mate does soda blasting, apparently a very common use for it apart from restoring cars is for removing the burnt smell from houses that have suffered fire damage. Baking soda is a natural deodoriser. If you could get hold of someone who does it near to you it...

I just saw this! Man I am so sorry for you Chris. I can only imagine what you feel like after all the work you have done. I hope it goes easier for you after you get sorted and I look forward to seeing your next 'cruiser. Best of luck Fella. HT

Here is a Colombian fellas version.

90 and 80 series use different wheel bearing setups, 80 series is two tapered rollers, 90 series is single roller bearing, pressed into knuckle.

I just finished giving mine a coat of Black Hammerite, I didn't seem to have the same level of frustration as you, mind you I dimly remember giving the bolts a coat of copper grease once. Its pretty solid as far as factory guards go, mine has a few war wounds though and needed a bit of battering...

Update: I fitted the diff yesterday evening, took me about 4 hrs in total including fitting new seals to the diff, they are relatively cheap at €37 for the two and 4 spring clips New seals are the rubber coated type the old ones were bare steel with a rubber lip. I knocked them in using the old...

No worries Steve, I am not driving the truck around, I just wanted to be able to move it up onto some ramps so I can work on it without getting soaked. I haven't picked up any of the kit yet, but I understand the intake manifold is different from the non cooled version. throttle cable is also a...

Cool Pic, amazing there was no water ingested. :shock:

That makes perfect sense, so the hub is held on by the driveshaft which butts up against the back of the knuckle, the 35mm locknut provides the clamping force. I suppose it's best not to be doing too much driving on it then without the shafts in place.

Update. I now have a replacement diff, R16 code which means 4.100. R17 is the code for 4.300. There is a little rectangular sticker on the extension tube on the drivers side that has the code on and date of manufacture. Funnily enough it came off an Import Prado 95 Auto. I am not going to stick...

I took the companion flange off as per your advice, the nut was only loosely staked on and it took very little pressure to remove it. No casing or anything just a void where it used to sit. I think bob murphy posted that it took between 25 and 50t pressure to get the bearings out of the hubs...

There is two taper rollers in the pinion the rear one is fine, the front one, closest to the ring gear was completely dry and failed. The two tapered rollers that support the halfshafts were fine as well. It seems to drive fine with no shafts in the front hubs, should be OK hopefully.

Sorry about the pics, it doesn't seem to format them very well. I used BBcode but for whatever reason it doesn't work well for me. Rightclick and view pictures works for me. Anyway lesson for today is watch your diff oil levels front and back. Breather worked fine I blew through it and it was...

Well I got the Diff out and stripped it to see if anything was salvageable. The ring gear looked OK but after washing it off in diesel there is a fair bit of tooth damage, the pinion is a lot worse though, the shaft has actually bent inside the diff head. Dry bearing was the cause. You can see...

Cheers guys, I am just heading out to do this now, old fridge boxes on the drive and lashing rain. The worst part is I have a shed but it's full of crap and I can't get the car in :oops:

What actually holds the halfshafts in place The lock ring in a machined groove? I am kind of worried that I will damage something if I go pulling on the end of the shaft assembly.

I know the problem now, having undone the front drain plug there was no oil in the diff, the drain plug also had a load of metal shards stuck to the magnet. Plus the smell of burnt oil is horrible, the seal looks to have gone on the NS and let all the lube juice out, shizer. Must try and get...

Thanks Chris How do the half shafts pull out? I have the 35mm hub nuts undone, the 4 bolts that hold the bottom ball joint are undone and the hub is free. The driveshafts are still in the diff, how do they come out Do I just pull hard on the outer CV?

My front diff has locked up and I will be pulling it apart tomorrow, It was preceded by a whine under load while travelling at speed 60-70mph. Travelling up a gentle motorway hill I had a momentary power loss and hesitation and pulled in, it didn't want to move after that with the two front...

I fitted the Osram Nightbreakers and find that they are very good, I had the Philips version of them before and they also lasted ages, 2 years IIRC. How did the bulb drop into the lens assembly?

When I changed the oil in my front diff it was black as well, I guess the rear is easy to get to but the front needs a hex socket and is a pain to refill so it doesn't get done as much.

Should be an interesting test. Let us know how you get on.

Those black wheels look to be 5 stud, you need 6 studs for a 90 series.

I think you are probably right about the different ECU, I had a drive of my BIL's japanese import 95 auto and it was a lot punchier than my 90 swb manual.The intercooler would make some difference but not that much.

Daniel, If you are planning an overland trip I would stay away from any of these performance parts. You don't need them.OEM is fine as long as it is in good condition. A stock 90 with all the right prep work done is more than capable of doing a trip across Africa. If your clutch is old or...

I got this fixed today, the wire had snapped inside the rubber bellows. Unlock wire is the thin blue with yellow trace on my 1997 Swb 90

My drivers door c/l switch has developed a fault, it no longer unlocks the doors. It will lock but not unlock them. I removed the switch and desoldered the slide switch inside and checked it for function, it was 100% but the problem remained after I resoldered it and refitted it. Anyone else had...

I thought it was a speaker grill for the two way radios that some are fitted with. The grill is a good place to stick your speaker for a handsfree kit behind, that what I use it for.

Service interval is 6k Miles, and I would try and keep to that. If in doubt get it out.

Well worth doing, I did mine a few months back just before my DOE(commercial WOF) and it definately made the whole steering more precise, not harsh just more accurate. I still feel that the steering is a little more vague than it used to be but with 253k miles it probably could do with new ball...

AFAIK the difference between diesel and petrol lube oil is that diesel oil has more detergents to keep carbon in suspension, petrols don't need this as they don't carbon as badly. But FWIW I would just stick it in. I used to use the 10w30 oil from Mr T but found that buying 20l drums of Mobil...

I used generic green antifreeze in my 97 SWB manual with the 1KZTE when I replaced the Radiator a few years ago and have never had a problem since.

The pulley should be good for a long time. I changed mine at 240k miles and it was fine. I changed it anyway because I bought a kit and it had the pulley included. The old one would have perfectly serviceable if I refitted it. Can't help on the fan I am afraid, I never took mine off to change...

It is actually easier on the 90 series than the Surf. Once the panels are dropped from under the car, you need a very long extension to undo the 3 bolts from the rear and the starter comes out the wheel arch. They seem to give a little warning before they go.