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You're saying a trick of the camera. I've taken the larger parts out of the oil and cleaned them. No hex shaped rods. The hook shaped piece is 0.7×1.2mm on cross section fwiw.

Pretty sure that's two unconnected pieces.

Don't think there's an allen key in there, what makes you say that?

Bottom of the drained oil.

Drained the oil, there's some swarf there which means presumably more in the sump. Turns out you need to drop the axle to get the sump out on these so I've not done that yet.

I think I want to check for mechanical damage first, what's the easiest way to check the internals?

Sounds like it might have rod knock. He suspected a cracked block but nothing visible outside in a quick inspection. Maybe oil pump failure and the big end bearings have gone? Hard to say without pulling stuff apart. What's the best way to inspect the engine internals without tearing it apart...

Tow man says like it sounds like a cylinder has blown. Bugger. New short block maybe?

Just to add it sounds a bit like it's running on three cylinders, maybe an injector has failed?

Not refuelled recently, it's been parked for most of the week, but ran fine last time. 3/4 of a tank on the fuel gauge. I have breakdown coming since the M60 is not a great place to be doing stuff.

Just had to pull over on the hard shoulder because it's started running rough suddenly. Any ideas what it might be. No lights on the dash. 1kz-te engine.

Legally they can't deny a claim based on faulty data unless they would not have covered you if you had entered correct data, they can take a difference in premium out of your claim though. That's more likely with a modified vehicle being declared unmodified than the other way.

Unless you drive a modified vehicle. My car is, and the first thing the garage asked when I had to make a claim was "are these modifications declared". They are so I was fine, otherwise, who knows. FWIW said car with mods is currectly costing £336 to insure, so they don't always cripple you...

I'm with admiral, my insurance dropped by £1000 across all the cars in the household this year. They really slashed the prices back. No one else can get anywhere near with my postcode and cars. Most of the quotes I was getting for the LC were about the same as I'm paying for three cars with admiral.

They're targetting construction and mining by the looks of things, also the refrigeration units on lorries.

5 seconds sounds a lot, I find a source that reckoned the average time to converge fire on a target was three rounds which is a fraction of a second. If they were firing HE rounds them you'd only need a couple of hits to destroy a small drone.

Surely a decent CIWS would take them out in seconds? One explosive round / small missile / drone detonated in the middle of that drone cloud would take 90% after all.

Some of these cashback things are basically trying to get you to sign up to a subscription thing, the cost of which is always more than the money back. Might have been one of those.

Drain it out, disconnect the main hoses, wedge a hose pipe in the hose somehow and pump water through, that'll do the block. Radiator can be flushed by just pumping water through the upper and lower hose points. Heater matrix, disconnect the hoses at the firewall and you can pump water through...

What does that graph show? Is 100 good?

I'd have thought you could just use appropriately sized brake pipe?

Also a car that hasn't been crashed showing an orange warning (or even a red warning really) shouldn't burst into flames. People expect things to break down and stop working not catch fire.

I know of a fair few gt86s that have caught fire due to poor workmanship when reinstalling injectors. You end up with fuel splashed all over the engine bay with predictable results. I wonder if something similar is happening here.

Stu, Park locks the driveline side of the transmission, but you can still spin the engine side shaft just fine. It's the same as neutral just with an extra locking pawl to prevent the output shaft from turning.

I've had 46 litres into a 50 litre tank on my car, and that was with the light on for ages and the gauge off the bottom. It's quite hard to run out unless you just pay no attention at all.

Nah mate, cleanest cruiser you've ever seen, not like the usual rotted junk etc. etc.

Headlights in general are expensive. I broke one on my car and was quoted about £900 from Toyota without the actual bulb or ballast. I can easily see Led stuff being much more expensive.

200 is 40-200 and 300 is 60-300, so the 200 gives better overlap. There's not much that you need over 200 Nm for and at that point you might be better served with a bigger wrench.

First torque wrench you buy should probably be a 1/2" one tbh. Any reason for the 300 over the 200? I'd say 40-200 is a more useful range than 60-300.

From the look of the tow bar attachment that's going to be rough as you like underneath.

Double post for me, finally replaced the torn caliper guide bolt boot that I've been meaning to do for months. Guide bolt is discoloured but otherwise seems OK. My stop gap of filling it full of grease seems to have worked.

No, a torque wrench is at least somewhat delicate, whereas impact wrenches are very much not. Starting out I'd go with a ratchet and a long tube plus a torque wrench.

You can get adapters.

I have a 200 Nm 1/2" drive one for big stuff, and a little 1/4" that goes down to 4 Nm.

Ideally you'd have a bigger (and maybe a smaller) torque wrench for different things.

It is the Halfords advanced 3/8" torque wrench in fact. The very one you are planning to get. I really like it, it replaced a sealey model that packed up on me and the build quality comparison is stark. I have a lot more tools than that, but am oil change requires few. Current favourite tool is...

@Raj dunno if you've done the oil yet, but my tools for the oil change in their entirety are below. No need for a jack even it's easy to just slide under the car with it on its wheels.

Oil change day for me. It was pretty thick and black, about what's expected? Also I pulled about 5 litres out and then put 7 back in, I guess the filter holds quite a bit.

@Mick W this might be of use.

Could be an abs sensor or wire. Can you plug a code reader in?

Had a look in my Haynes manual, nothing specific, said to hold back 0.5-1 litre from the nominal amount to make sure you don't overfill.

I have bfg all terrains on and they have the three peak mountain and snowflake so they're good for winter I think.

Not on my land cruiser, in the other half's Yaris. Dropped the sump, helicoiled the drain plug which has been stripped for at least a year, put it back together. A real chore and makes me appreciate the clearance under the cruiser.