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Thanks guys. When I last wrote, I was part way through a fairly serious back flushing operation of the Cat / downpipe. I blocked the front end filled it with boiling water, mixed with a LOT of fairy liquid (Max!) ... I let it soak over night, then got the power washer and low-power blasted down...

I gladly would, but it would be illegal, given it was fitted from the factory as per the DVLA regs at the time.

Yeah.. I'm having a go at off-car cleaning / flushing of the cat (seeing as it's already toast - nothing to lose). Hopefully will be back on by tomorrow and I'll see if it worked or not. Very few options for replacement cats (downpipes), as far as I can see :( Looks like the only options are...

Thanks! Glad it was entertaining for someone at least! :sweatsmile:

... with all the recent running problems with the injection pump and fuelling etc, I'm slowly putting 2 and 2 together... (and probably getting 5..) When I first refitted the new injection pump a few months ago - fixing the original DTC14 problem - all seemed quite ok. Only done a few miles...

Ok so 2023-24 is proving to be my Annus Horribilis as far as my cruiser is concerned :weary::disrelieved: Latest problem: Barely enough power to pull the skin off a rice pudding (can hardly get up my road (~4-5% grade) at more than 25mph) Black smoke No DTC FSM reference values look reasonable...

Well, after an untold amount of me$$ing about, it's fixed... Along the way I accidentally trashed the new piston kit, and the HBB body (didn't realise the new piston had not located in the spring properly...). Ended up buying a used HBB off ebay and making a "Best of" HBB using the best bits...

Another weekend, another update, for interest... Took the HBB back out and back on the bench... slackened off the accumulator and energised the motor (at low voltage, around 5v)... foamy brake fluid came out, so I am pretty certain there was, at least, air in the booster pump area. Ran the...

I've had better parties, I must admit :D But that is a very good suggestion. I will try it and report back - thanks!

Crikey - how long did it take to figure that out?? :icon-eek:

Ok, after a long wait for parts from Japan, an update, of sorts.... New brake lines fitted to the HBB after the FR wheel line ruptured duing all the faffing. However, the problem remains - no big surprise. Identified symptoms: With the ignition ON, the (new) HBB pump just runs and runs...

A small update.... this problem has now officially reached "saga" status, and is in danger of eclipsing the original problem which it tacked itself on to (faulty injection pump)... Predictably, the accumulator o-ring was visually fine, and fitting the new one made no difference. (Pump just...

A lot of useful info in there, thank you! I hope I don't end up having to go that deep. Gonna start with the easy thing first and try replacing that accumulator o-ring with the one supplied with the motor.

just had a look at the parts manual.... I thought the HBB was considered by Mr T to be one unit so wasn't expecting a breakdown, but....I reckon it could be this? :

One thing I need to investigate - the new motor came with a small o-ring which I could not figure out where it was supposed to go. No o-ring came out with the old motor, not was there any evidence of one. I figured maybe, being generic, they include it for certain applications, but now I'm...

I'm not sure. For expedience I bought a replacement so I could just swap it straight in, but I won't just bin the old one. I'll open it up, perhaps get it reconditioned and keep it as a spare. There was a lot of powdery dust (aluminium corrosion, by the looks of it) when I broke the old one...

and besides, we're talking about a small electric motor here, not some unfathomable alien tech...

:sweatsmile: yeah, who knows... it's a crapshoot. Having just come out of an injector and injector pump overhaul, to discover that the booster pump has started screeching, the quickest route to getting back on the road appears to be a £90 gamble and here in time for the weekend. I would...

Hi Has anyone tried the replacement brake booster pumps that are available on ebay for around £100? Chinese aftermarket obviously. Mine just started screeching at the weekend so I need to decide between a repair kit, sending it for rebuild, or a brand new ebay aftermarket jobbie. sim

PPS For anyone else finding this thread in the future - the pump overhaul was carried out by Shaun Arkinstall Fuel Injection Services. They know what they are doing and I recommend them highly.

Just to complete the story.... ... I ended up sending the pump for test and overhaul. The test showed that it was close to spec but low on delivery especially at low outputs. One internal filter was found to be somewhat clogged, and another had corroded and completely broken up (which perhaps...

An update - (belated!) - on the above issue for interest. (Unfortunately I couldn't do much over the winter months, but I'm back on it now)... After the last report, the CEL finally returned - as well as the bad running. I also notice that actual diesel (or some non aqueous liquid) was...

Thanks @Dave I replaced the fuel filter (for another Crossland I'm afraid as I'd already bought it a couple of days ago!). To avoid any chance of the new filter getting clogged if there were something unsavoury in the tank I also drained the tank completely. Nothing untoward came out. I put...

Oh, that is an interesting angle. I never knew that diesel bug were a thing, until now. I've seen that happen in screenwash and it's pretty nasty. My filter is a Crossland from ECP. No biocide. The fuel tank is near empty at the moment so I might just drain it completely as well as check /...

Hi all Some background first on a fault I am now investigating. Maybe it'll help someone some day: My 1HD-FTE started acting up during a touring holiday a couple of weeks back. The first signs were when parking up one evening and the engine sounded intermintently rough whilst idling and...

Ah - rivnuts! I saw them on youtube a while back and thought "where have they been all my life?!" But I never think to try them. Thanks!

Can't blame you Bob - I think I'd rather be swapping the engine on that than dealing with rust and broken bolts! Very odd how they mix studs and captive nuts.... The only reason I can think of is to make factory assembly a fraction of a second quicker by allowing the workers to locate the...

Ah, that is interesting to know, about the potential for a larger size. I'll look into that! Mine does struggle a bit in cold weather ( < 5C) especially if it has been left a few days. I would like a bit more in reserve! I have been looking underneath for potential mounting points for a third...

@knicko - just to say, I keep a good stock of s/s bolts and routinely use them when reassembling anything on my truck. So many of the original bolts have given me grief that whatever the potential issues are with using stainless fixings on non-stainless metal are, it can't be worse than what I...

Thanks Bob - I've seen your sill-renewal thread and I raise my hat to you for what you did there. I too am not thrilled by doing bodywork. (I do have some bubbling at the front of the rear sill which I must deal with - I am praying it's not as extensive as yours!). After I posted my message...

Where are you planning to locate your third battery Sparra? I reworked the standard dual-battery setup so that the left one became the leisure battery, and the right one did the normal car duties. This worked ok, but one battery for starting can be marginal in my experience, so I would like to...

Hi all I need to sort out my side-steps which are rattling and insecure. I started removing the brackets from the body (with a view to renewing them) but some of the bolts were totally rusted and sheered off in the process. So now it will not be possible to bolt new brackets in place. Would...

Old thread, I know, but for what it's worth... When I renewed my AHC rams (not an AHC-delete) I just about to managed to remove one side with a LOT of struggle. For the other side I opted to drill the hole and make my life 10 times easier. I know it's not the factory method, but it's twenty...

I managed to upload one of the two videos at least. This one shows the movement in the front prop when turning it back and forth by hand: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fYOGjAaxOH6ouPbrC-IeaVK5omtmoJPv/view?usp=sharing

Thanks for the suggestion uHu. I've just emerged from under the car and, unfortunately, it's definitely not the prop or UJs. With the car on the ground (i.e. wheels unable to move) and the transfer box in N, centre diff unlocked, there is a marked difference in the amount of free rotation...

Hi My Cruiser makes a disinct clonk when coming on and off the throttle. It's not grossly offensive, but does detract from the ride. I had a quick look in to it a few years ago (thread here: Driveline Clonk (rear diff?) - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]). I later found that the front hub splines...

Hi Some day I can see myself finding a really clean facelift 100 (I currently have a pre-facelift 2002 - I've done a lot to bring it up to scratch but it's had a hard life before me and the dreaded tin worm may eventually get the best of it). But the one thing that puts me off the newer models...

I happened to watch this video last night. It _is_ a very nice truck, no question, and maybe for someone who just wants to hit the road it might be a good deal. Base vehicle new looks to be around £40-45k, and this one has had a lot of expensive work done. If you value all those add-ons maybe it...

175,000 miles... But... It's fixed! :D I took the Neutral Safety Switch off (aka Park Neutral Switch etc). First oberservation - the connector was jammed with a dry white substance. Best guess is silicone grease, but old and dried out. I also opened the unit up, thoroughly cleaned...

Hi In my quest to stamp out the few electrical gremlins in my truck (sadly I think it has had a hard life...)... I am faced with two apparently unrelated problems. Only now, I'm starting to wonder (hope against hope..?) whether they could be two manifestation of the same problem. I'd be...

PS.... for general interest...: I spotted the alarm module itself. It's a TVSS IV-S.

Weekend update.... Using the circuit diag for the suspect HAZ/TRN circuit, I saw that the the first component beyond the fuse (apart from a loom connector) is the T11 flasher unit. Disconnecting this would effectvely take the entire rest of the indicator circuit out of the picture. I did this...

It turns out that the bonnet does have a switch... and contrary to my expectation, it is working! The reason I suspected it could be at fault (or absent!) is that AHC height changes do not get blocked when the bonnet is open, whereas opening a cabin door cancels the height change. I assumed...

It's a 2002 model year so I guess not the same alarm, but I haven't been able to find any info so far. 40mA sounds much closer to what I would expect (I think I recall a technical document from Mr T quoting an expected range of 35-50mA, but I can't swear to the accuracy of my memory :)) So...

Removing and hopefully opening the siren was going to be my next step, at the weekend if the stars align correctly. It must have either a battery or capacitor into in order to sound the disconnection beeper at least, so if I can get to those I might be able to renew them. That's the plan, but I...

I'm not aware of it being aftermarket, but I'm not sure how I can check that. I assumed that by that point (2002) most cars had factory alarms as standard. If I could find the part number for the siren module, and find one on new or on ebay for a reasonable price, I'd be willing to take a punt...

The intrigue continues. According to the HAZ/TRN system diagram, there should be no permanent consumers on that circuit except for the obvious turn signal components. But, I found a couple of things that contradict this in my case. 1) Pulling the fuse causes the alarm siren to beep a few...

Ah I see, yes. I tried to look for it yesterday (supposed to be in the bundle of cabling inside the jack compartment at the back) but couldn't see any likely candidate. It's not very pleasant in there - Dinitrol wax bundles of cable with foam wrapped connectors... However... (see next message...)