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1HD-T Oil pressure sender

Chris

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Carrying on from Lorin's Oil Pressure Woes thread and the ensuing discussion over oil pressure, I took delivery of a comprehensive oil pressure testing kit and gauge today from RDGTools. Having replaced the pressure sender and having performed the FSM checks, I could not find any reason why the gauge didn't work. Slightly worried that in fact I had NO oil pressure at all, I thought it best to check it out. I have had the sender off a couple of times and it's a right little bugger to get at, so I thought I'd post the wisdom for anyone else going this way.

The sender is a small round canister just to the right and below of the oil filter. It has two wires; one spade terminal and one sort of clip on swivel that goes onto the central little 'tit' on the canister. Best thing to do is remove the oil filter. It gives you so much more room. The undo the two 12mm headed bolts that secure the dipstick tube and twizzle it anti clockwise out of the way. Next undo a connector that goes to a sensor in the block right above the sender unit. This allows you to wield a spanner. Disconnect the two leads on the sender. You can use a tie wrap or string to try and pull some of the loom out of the way if you are struggling. I have been in there so many times I'm pretty practised at it.

Using a 14mm open ended spanner you can now just get onto the nut which is part of the back of the unit. You'll probably have to undo it one facet at a time reversing the spanner to get onto the nut. There is sufficient room to get quite a good arc. And as they say is it. Fiddly and at times you'll wish you had a third arm. I struggled a bit at first and tried water pump pliers from below. The new Milner sender didn't like that and the canister actually turned not the taper thread. So that was that fnurked. I had to put the old one back in which worked just as badly as the new one :roll:

The testing kit comes with a myriad of connectors and I went for a 90 degree elbow combination as the hose to the gauge doesn't have a swivel on the end so screwing it in, in line was a no-go.

All nipped up and started the engine. Really relieved to say that the oil pressures were bang on the mark. PHEW

OK £40 and some bu**ering around, but I can sleep peacefully now. OK it was always doubtful that the oil pump was duff, but now knowing the history of this truck and as it stood for 8 years in a yard, you just never know. I thought that the pick up strainer may have been blocked too. Going to do the BEBs very soon so we'll have a look there at the same time. If the pressure had been zero, I doubt that it would have run for very long without going bang. But now I know.

One day I WILL get it working.


Chris
 
Hi Chris
Thought you were worrying over nothing..........just like me.
Did you have a dry mouth when you were just about to start the engine?

Frank
 
A point about the oil pressure sender, if you have a low reading and have confirmed that the OP is good you can adjust the sender to reflect that fact. If you remove the sender and prise the two halves apart, careful of your fingers here and do it slowly and carefully. Once apart you will see a set of points similar to what we had years ago in the distributor, the gap is adjustable using the small cog at the side of the points. The lower your indication the wider the gap in the points will be, you need to adjust the points to the point where you can just see daylight (perhaps 5thou?).

Then simply close the unit up and replace it, job done. Once you have finished you will have an operating oil pressure gauge...simple huh?

If when you switch on the ignition without starting the engine the gauge shows pressure then you have adjusted the points so they are touching (or you knocked/bent them when reassembling).


regards

Dave
 
Dave, I have tried 3 different sender units now. They all give the same reading of, err, well zero. I don't think that taking it to bits and twiddling is actually the answer. There is something else wrong somewhere. I just need to track the problem down. I have tried two different dash guages too. I'm struggling to see where the fault lies.


Chris
 
Have you checked there is power at the pressure sender?
 
Jon, I have done the FSM check which involves grounding the wire at the sender and the dash gauge gave FSD. So I am guessing that answers that.

The only thing that I can think of is the the actual connector to the sender is somehow faulty, misshapen etc so that even though clipped on is no making a circuit. I have wiggled it endlessly though and had no results. Running very smooth with its new BEBs and JW diff though.

Chris
 
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Worth checking continuity between the sender casing and ground? I've lost track a bit, how many senders have you tried?
 
My apologies, I took it from your post that you were suffering pretty much what every other 80 owner suffered from which is a low (or no) reading at the gauge which 9.9999999 times out of ten is the sender unit needing adjustment.

Now this is different, looks like you will be pulling the connector at the back of the dashboard and checking for continuity back to the sender, supply at the sender ect it's all pretty straightforward leccy stuff.

regards

Dave
 
There are two wires to the sender Jon and nothing I have looked at says what the other one is for. I have tried three units so far. I'd guess that any earth is made directly with the engine block. I figured that one would be 12v straight in and then according to the pressure delivered, a proportion of that 12v would come back out to the gauge to give a reading. When I did the test as per the FSM I took the central clip-on wire and grounded it. That gave FSD on the dash. I can't really work that one out.

I'd just like to resolve it - simply because it should be working not because I need it.


Chris
 
Might the second wire be the ground wire for the sensor? The power comes via the coil in the gauge that moves the needle, that's how it's usually done. When lots of current flows through the coil (middle wire grounded) the needle goes FSD and the sender is supposed to vary current flow (variable resistor) according to oil pressure which should vary the needle deflection. Maybe it grounds to the other wire rather than the block? The EWD isn't entirely clear on the grounding but I think that might be what it's showing. I'd try disconnecting that 2nd wire and adding your own ground to that sender terminal just for a test?
 
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