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1HD-T still overheating

G

Guest

Guest
It may still be the fan clutch. Robbie's the man for exact Q&A on what/how
to test.
I had tested mine and it seemed fine. He checked and said no.
$50 to replace and fixed my overheating.
Options:
- fan clutch replace or new fluid
- ensure radiator is not clogged (get power flushed or replace)
- check cooling system and hoses etc.
- check for head gasket (leaks etc.)
Lal
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]]On Behalf Of Dennis Lamminga
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2004 11:59 AM
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: [ELCO] 1HD-T still overheating
Hi Cruisers,
I'm in the process in eliminating my '91 1HD-T's
overheating problem.
Thanks for all the useful advice:
I've replaced the radiator,
flushed the cooling system,
and did some additional tests, e.g. checked resistance
of the fan
In town and short runs, the temperature gauge stays
normal, and radiator and extra water reservoir levels
are ok.
However, taker her on a long Motorway run, dare to go
over 70mph on a hill, the water starts bubbling, and
the levels go down; the reservoir is empty.
So, according to Birfield archives, it's either:
the head - check for leaks (no leaks)
fan clutch (there is resistance)
thermostat (haven't checked this yet)
lie under the car and check for leaks after a hot run
(haven't put on the overalls yet).
Does anyone have additional tips I could check for?
Thanks in advance,
--
Dennis Lamminga
'91 1HD-T import A/T
64000km
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Dennis
I'm no expert, but I've been here before in other cars:
(1) Thermostat? Is the return pipe from the radiator hot? If not then this may be stuck shut, or nearly shut. All our cars over the years (well, not my air-cooled Beetle back in 1980) have needed new thermostats at around 10 years old.
(2) Water pump? Mr Haynes, he say "With the engine hot & running squeeze the top (flow) pipe to the radiator, then release. You should feel a pressure surge when you release it."
(3) If it is overheating at motorway speeds during winter I doubt it's the fan. You say there is resistance, so it is probably OK, but to give you some idea I've just tried my fan, and with the engine cold I would estimate that it takes between 1/4 and 1/2 pound of pressure on the outer end of a blade to rotate it. Rotation is heavily damped and stops immediately I stop pushing.
In the meantime turn all the heaters on full blast when hill-climbing - it all helps cool the engine. (This was standard practice in my old VW when climbing hills with a horse trailer on the back.)
Christopher Bell
Devon, UK
1996 1HD-FT
 
Dennis, I think the engine is pressurizing the coolant system, resulting
in coolant being forced out of the expansion tank. You ought to get a
pressure test done on the cooling system and possibly a compression test
or better still a presure leakdown test done on all the cylinders. If
you are coming to S/Plain on the 5th I can be sure plenty of people will
be happy to look under the bonnet with you and offer sage like advice.
I can drive my 1-HDFT all day, up and down hill with the radiator blind
pulled virtually all the way down - no overheating. Thus I am sceptical
that your fan clutch is at fault. On mine the system comes up to its
working temp within 2.5 miles and the heater is excellent.
Regards Gareth Jones '97 1-HDFT manual - Langstone S.WALES.
 
Hi all,
IMHO, looks like a problem with sustained heat dissipation. On short
runs high temperature never has a chance to be registered by the
gauge. On motorways it stays high long enough to show. Would this
eliminate the thermostat? Also, at high speeds the fan does not work
so hard as there's enough air passing through the radiator. Could it
be an obstruction leading to pressure buildup? If so, this also might
mean the water pump is OK. What about a clogged coolant channel,
radiator or pipes?
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
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