1kzte HEAD!

[Beau]

Hi guys, I am in the process of sourcing a head for my engine, but there are so many about....

Firstly I dont want a cheap china one, as I have heard these crack back again.
I dont mind paying a bit more for a better one once it last. I know the heads are made out of Alluminium right?

So Im sure some of you guys have replaced your head before, where did you buy yours and was it any good?

Thanks

 

[KZJ90]

You are right, never buy chinese copy. I did that, it lasted only 4 months/6500 km! All heads are made of aluminium.

Then I bought oem Toyota head from Steve OBrien, Engine Company Services Ltd: http://www.engineco.co.uk Complete original Toyota head with Toyota head gasket (complete kit with recycled camshaft/valves, included bolts and other gaskets) was £899 about 1,5 years ago. I had to send the old camshaft and valves to them.

What I have heard and understood, AMC heads are even better than original. You can get those from Roughtrax.

 

[Beau]

Thanks! I got in contact with some chinease manafactuers.

They offered a complete head, with new camshafts, gaskets, valve stems for $325 + $90 shipped to my door. Thats not bad but if they are only going to last a few thousand miles then what is the point.

I'll have a look at roughtrax!

 

[vrecha]

Well, to add my experience on the subject:
I bought a Chinese copy 1KZ-TE cylinder head 4 years ago (directly from factory, excellent deal, but this is another story), drove without a problem additional more than 40 kkm, sold the car, the new owner did another good 20 kkm (nov 2010) and as far as I know the engine still works flawlessly.
The copy with postage was five times cheaper than the original.

 

[Graham]

I wouldn't be so quick to rule out a Chinese copy.
There are many copies, and some are better than others.
If you put a copy head on, and it only lasted 6,500 miles, then I would be quick to say, there wasan under lying problem, which you had not addressed.

I think the initial problem, ie, insufficient cooling, must be addressed before you put ANY replacement head on.
Even consider a replacement thermostat, water pump, and radiator in with thr head replacement job.

Graham

 

[Beau]

I wouldn't be so quick to rule out a Chinese copy.
There are many copies, and some are better than others.
If you put a copy head on, and it only lasted 6,500 miles, then I would be quick to say, there wasan under lying problem, which you had not addressed.

I think the initial problem, ie, insufficient cooling, must be addressed before you put ANY replacement head on.
Even consider a replacement thermostat, water pump, and radiator in with thr head replacement job.

Graham

When I had my cracked head last year with the old radiator I would use up water every time the engine runs and I would see the temp gauge moving when going up hills and towing. I have had this cracked hear for nearly 3 years now. Last year I replaced the radiator and it does not use up any water when running around, only when towing and pushing it hard on the motorway. When I replace this head, I will put a Intercooler in and maybe a second temp gauge to help monitor the temperature.

So would you reccomend a chinease one or should I stick with roughtrax?

 

[BobMurphy]

Hi,

I replaced mine with an AMC unit from Roughtrax. I bought the 'ready-to-fit' option with the cam and valves fitted and shimmed .

The head has been fine, but I used a pattern gasket which leaked soon after fitting.

This Spring I replaced the gasket with a genuine Toyota one (and used jointing compound in case there was a low spot somewhere) and have had no trouble since.

I also replaced the radiator, water pump and put a 76deg thermostat in. Its been fine towing a double horse trailer with two large horses since then.

Bob.

 

[Beau]

Nice! But to be honest the head allong from roughtrax is £420. This is a lot, when I can get everything new from china for £200 including the valve stems, gaskets, camshaft ect.

 

[KZJ90]

So would you reccomend a chinease one or should I stick with roughtrax?

Your choise, you have been warned. I would not take the risk... I bought mine chinese head from this guy: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/bob0786/m.html

 

[Beau]

Yeh, your right. I will just bite the bullet and buy the one on roughtrax.

 

[Cabman]

hi i did my head in january this year and i bought the amc head and all gaskets from roughtrax. i also replaced radiator and thermostat and used genuine toyota coolant. i don't think you can skimp on a job like the head if your gonna do it do it right first time !. i also blanked of the egr valve while i was at it and engine runs very clean now.

 

[Cabman]

and also pay the extra for a complete head all built its just not worth the trouble to do all setting up. thats a specialist job

 

[Jaronimo]

1kz t head gaskets leaking??

Hey guys, Im in aussie land, did a conversion on my old 4runner with a 2004 1kzte, came with a cracked head that developed 2 months after install, have since fitted a complete assembled kiwi heads head and a genuine gasket, a 55mm monster alloy radiator, mechanical injection pump, lpg, w2a intercooler, 3inch zorst for some decent horsepower, and it goes really well, problem now if head/block gets over 90deg, (has a 80 deg top thermostat setup - lower thermostat with bypass modified), it starts to pressurize radiator which then leads it to run warm with less coolant in the system, takes around 1200klm to use 3 litres, Have been using water/water wetter instead.

im thinking I must have a leaking headgasket??? with all my mods egts rarely get over 500degC, runs cold too cold somedays as I use a w2a system with a/c water chiller for hot days, but no problem with water loss on cooler days, just when temps are over 25deg and towing etc

Now in aussie land the only thing you can get for headgaskets is spray on copper coat, I am wondering if I should get the hylomer blue jointing paste from the UK and use that on both sides of another toyota gasket??? Im hoping I dont have a new cracked head, and its just a compression leak around the back of the engine - noticed it was discouloured when the new head went on, it does chugg a bit on one cylinder now on 1st startup for the day

BobMurphy ive read your posts on the coolant flow, I was starting to think if the lower bypass thermostat works perfectly wouldnt it be causing a hot spot in the back part of the engine when the thermostat opens and full flow is acheived, closeing the internal gallery? I was wondering if I had another cracked head if this was the case as my bottom thermostat is in position to keep the bypass closed (wouldnt think it would be totally sealed shut)and allow the top thermostat to control the temp of the block

is it possible thats why these heads crack all the time, as the water wouldnt be moving. ive got 2 temp gauges also modified my toyota gauge to read quickly with new resistors, ive noticed the temp rise up to 90ish from 75 deg C in the head where the factory temp sender is and the aftermarket temp probe in the top hose outlet on 80-82deg C and not move, under quick excelleration high loads ie up hills in 5th towing, could the coolant be that much different??

 

[BobMurphy]

Jaronimo,

I'm not sure that I understand all this . .

You have an 80deg thermostat in the top and a modified thermostat in the bottom, how has the lower 'stat been modified??

On the standard set-up there is no restriction to the flow at the top and the lower 'stat is 82deg C. The problem seems to be that the top gets too hot under sudden loads and the bottom doesn't get hot enough to open the 'stat.

With the lower 'stat closed, the coolant can circulate around the block. With the lower stat open the flow from the bottom of the block is stopped and coolant circulates from the bottom of the radiator, past the oil cooler (hidden behind the oil filter) around the head and out of the top to the radiator. Presumably the system relies on thermosyphon to let cool coolant replace hot coolant at the bottom of the block .

If your lower 'stat is stopping the flow from the radiator, your top 80deg C 'stat won't make any difference as it will open way before the lower one.

I'd be inclined to put a 76deg C 'stat in the bottom - but I think the top stat will still be redundant - unless, of course, you have done something clever to the lower 'stat .

I await an explanation with interest!

Bob.