33s vs 35s

[EvilEd]

Righty


Got the body lift fitted, but.........

How do I adjust the transfer shifter (hard against the back of the housing)?
how do I adjust the auto shifter (very upset, shows the orange bar on two gears at a time)?
Is it normal for the steering to be stiff afterwards ? *

* The spacer seems a little larger than needed, so I undid the adjuster above, WD40, hammer, screwdriver in the gap to open it a bit and all sorts but it just isn't moving easily.

Any advice ? I have considered pulling up right next to a kerb, undoing the adjuster and using the steering to release the adjuster ??? good or bad idea ?

(should get the manual this week, got an amazon dispatch notification on Friday)

 

[Chris]

Well if you'd accepted the offer of the guide on how to do all of this Ed, you'd have know, wouldn't you

OK, gear selector, really easy, underneath there is an adjuster, all you do is slacken off the nut, and move the lever inside the cabin to where it should be and then tighten it back up. It really is that simple. Now on the transfer lever, you have to be a bit less subtle. Basically, you have to bend it. Yep, you need a big Yorkshire lad and just bend it. My SWB didn't need it, but when I did Nick's LWB I had to apply some quality grunt. You could cut it, weld it back up, finish it with a nice powder coat - or just bend it.

Ed, steering should NOT be stiff. This indicates binding. Please don't drive it like that. The slip joint does need a little coaxing. The cross bolt that tightens it also stops it coming apart. It can be too tight (stretched) or too tight (compressed). If you have the spacer in I suspect that it's over compressed. This will place a lot of pressure on the steering actuator. Once you do that, you will get leaking above the rack and need to replace the internal seals. There really should be plenty of room after the lift and with the slip joint freed off, to get the spacer in. One thing that you need to do is look inside the holes in the spacer and see if the lugs on the rag joint have left a mark in the aluminium. If they have then then you need to shorten them. If you don't then the rag joint isn't actually flexing - it's solid and will transfer vibration into the steering actuator. I actually enlarge the holes on the spacer. I don't think Milner copied the one I had to the exact measurements and it's possible for the flanges on the rag joint to sit ON the spacer rather then slip inside it.The slip joint is splined of course so you can loosen it by turning the wheel. You can heat it with small blowtorch then quench with WD40 until it loosens.

You really should have had that fitting guide!

Have a think on that and come back if you've any more questions. We're here to help

Chris

 

[EvilEd]

Sorted.

Dismantled it all again this morning, and the adjuster tried to slide off.... tightened it all back up and jobs a good'un. the lugs are not touching, but put another couple of mm in there just in case..... I think I must have freed it up last night but couldn't tell with the rest done up.

Adjusted the auto selector, did it in park first, and was still wrong in R and 2. to set it up again in R and works sweet now.

Looked at bending the transfer lever and I thing I'll leave it as it, it just fits, and knowing me i'll break it if I try to fix it more....

 

[Chris]

Well done Ed.

It's pretty hard to bend never mind break it. You might find that it rattles at certain revs, but if it seems fine then best to leave it like you say. Just fitted Clean and Green's Ironman suspension in a little over 4 hours. We took it stead, had plenty of fag breaks and had to make a new part for his spring compressor tower, but that give you an idea of how quickly it can be done. Having done a 90 Ironman and a 90 OME, I can say that the Ironman was LOT easier.

Chris

 

[EvilEd]

Just an update on this one...

The 255/85s are on, had to remove the mudflaps at the front as very slight rubbing.

Not heard back from Greg, will need to chase him up when I have a moment....

Had the tyre mount modded to the left about 20mm, then packed it out about 20mm and the tyre sits on the back nicely for now. This is probably temporary until I get the rear bumper and will probably mount a tyre carrier on this.

Am still in two minds where to go next with the lift / snorkel. May be able to get a safari copy for ~ £140. And am re-visiting the strut spacer option at the moment. Might buy myself some HDPE or Polypropylene rod / tube to make myself some spacers. Anyone know what diameter the rear springs and seats are at the top seat ? also the fronts ?

 

[Gav Peter]

Thats all well & good Ed but where's the photos?????

Just my :twocents-mytwocents: on the wheel carrier but I would leave the spare on the door - its a pain in the ass opening a wheel carrier & then the door on my 80...

Cheers

 

[EvilEd]

I relly need to sort out the photos....

For the tyre carrier, I was thinking similar to the Bestop one I had on the Jeep. attaches to the rear door and in my case, an upright from the bumper (http://www.bestop.com/installation_guides/61960.pdf) so you don't have 2 latches. But that's a later project, for now it'll stay on the door, but I do worry about the extra weight on the hinges.

Another project on the cards is to fit a false floor for the dog and have somewhere under to put waffle boards or the dog ramp. Something simple like 4" or 5"x2" uprights to make a frame/ support and some 10 or 12mm ply over the top, I have the carpet style liner that I can put on top as a cover (after it's painted) and can use the current tie downs to hold it in place. may even put a box in one side to keep jump leads and the inverter in, still in the concept stages at the moment as I need to see how big the mutt is going to get too.... may need an amazon yet

Still not ordered the winch...

Anyone able to measure their old springs diameters ?

 

[Gav Peter]

Just a wee point that was made to me when I was doing my rear bumper, the wheel carrier aught to be fixed to either the chassis (bumper) or the body rather than between the two as they each flex independently of each other... If the two were tied together, there could be problems...

Not trying to teach you to suck eggs or owt like that but it seemed to make sense to me at the time

 

[sae70]

 

[EvilEd]

Just a wee point that was made to me when I was doing my rear bumper, the wheel carrier aught to be fixed to either the chassis (bumper) or the body rather than between the two as they each flex independently of each other... If the two were tied together, there could be problems...

Hmmm, yes, good point, the Bestop one attached to the body with strengthening brackets. It would have to attach to the hinge (sp?) mounts and the existing wheel mounts. That one is going to need more thought.... although you could use the bumper as a vertical load bearer with plenty of horizontal play and the door horizontal support.

The other interesting part of that is that the front factory bumper attaches between the two ?

All the Pics I have available are at:

http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/675550292

These show post body lift and new tyres, but there are more on the normal camera (pre changes) that I need to dig out of the thousands of doggy pictures taken on there over the last 4 weeks too

 

[Bounder]

Here is a Colombian fellas version.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

The other interesting part of that is that the front factory bumper attaches between the two ?

More than likely made of bendy plastic?

 

[Gav Peter]

Yeah, all the bumper fixings are made from thin pressed sheet steel, probably so they'll flex around... I still think the wheel is best left on the door if at all possible...

Is that Colombian bumper from 'MUD Bounder? Its well worth having a look on there for inspiration too Ed...

I need to dig out of the thousands of doggy pictures taken on there over the last 4 weeks too

I'll have a thrutchel through your pics later dude but don't want to see any doggy pics ta!!!

 

[EvilEd]

Well, current status is....

She has:
the Milners body lift.
OME Spring lift.
255/85R15 tyres
K4 Winch mount with Superwinch EP9i
K4 Rock Sliders.
Also changed the stereo for one with BT phone connection and fitted a tray underneath to fill the hole although a CB may go in there before the end of the week if I can.
She also has 2 extra lighter sockets in the rear of the centre console.

The whole bumper project is on hold until a few work issues sort themselves one way or another, though the K4 mount will become the bumper eventually, and possibly the bash plate as well.

Todo are the CB and incab winch controls, but we'll see if I get time.... Haven't ordered the CB yet!

Will finally get her off the tarmac next weekend and see how she compares to the old wranger Will be scared of scratching her though !