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4.2 Turbo problems? Please help

Hi Jon

I got the IP tested and repaired (replaced timing control valve) last Dec. After doing this I traced the starting problem to a poor connection on the spill valve. Occasionally it has cut out since but after giving the plug a wiggle it's fine. I resented paying Toyota 100's to repair a poor connection and I was a bit apprehensive about doing a bodge. Still the symptoms now feel like fuel or air starvation. Although I haven't ruled out the pump.

Typical I sold my other car just two weeks ago, so the LC is my only car for now!
 
The gunk was drawn into the small diesel engine, it was mostly condensed at about 10cm above the inlet ports. Below that the engine just sucked it in and burned it like crude fuel.

I had no ill effects and my bmw guy has seen a lot of it.
No problem he says, just give it some more revs when your driving.

It shouldn't have any ill effects if you consider it. The soot has already gone through the engine it is in fact unburned diesel, and diesels do like a little turbo oil too.

You've cleaned most of the inlet, have good fuel and air delivery.
I'd say remove the exhaust completely and do a diesel purge. These cans of liquid wonder do miracles. Also check your thermostat and coolant hoses coming out of the engine for correct engine temp. Too low and it will lose valuable heat causing insufficient burning of diesel.
 
Will do. I'm on it again today. When you say take the exhaust of and do a diesel purge, do you mean take the exhaust off (clean it) and give the car a rev with the exhaust off? Is the liquid wonder injector cleaner?

I bought injector cleaner this am, along with a new air filter and yet another fuel filter just in case... I'll post later, but thanks for all your suggestions.
 
Actually perform the diesel purge with your exhaust removed.
In the event the cat or exhaust is plugged up, you'll immediatly notice ;)

It's liquid wonder injection cleaner and you run your vehicle off a plastic bottle tank.
I've used it many times, it won't cure mechanical problems but give your injectors and combustion chamber a good clean.
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{admin edit: fixed youtube link. Only needs the code, not the URL}
 
Chris

I'll give it a try! Is there a ready made kit for this? Or do I just use a bottle with the correct size pipe. If I take the exhaust off to do this what sort of a noise will the lc make (I'm wondering whether it'll annoy neighbours). Is there any particular brand of wonder fluid that you use? I'll do this next plus clean out the exhaust with petrol.

By the way I've put the car back together now... to begin with it ran lumpy, then I shut it off and restarted it and suddenly it revs right up the range. Took it out and it was swifter that it's been for a while, then I noticed the hesitation back. Switched it off for a while restarted it and it was ok for a while. Seems to be fine till I really put my foot down.

I'm wondering if it could be linked to a dodgy connection on the IP spill valve?? The electrical plug on the SV needs to be wiggled to get a connection. Once done it's usually ok until disturbed. Normally you either have a connection (& the car is ok) or not and it won't start. The spill valve is driven off a DC/DC converter that bumps up 12v to 150v issh, enabling the SV to push the derv out at sufficient pressure. If the connection is there but not good enough I guess that this could have the effect of not enough pressure.

There is a bulletin by toyo for this, they even produce a kit to rectify, problem is that this kit is not for sale and the Stealer wants over £400 for basically fixing a bad connection. Typical Toy has a design fault and uses it as an opportunity to cream even more money from their loyal customers :x There is a thread about this in the 'other' place... but I think that the best way to fix it is a couple of spade connectors, some silicone, some heat shrink and solder. I'm hoping that the silicon would prevent the spade connectors fracturing the male connectors on the spill valve as a result of all the engine vibration.
 
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I would fix the thing you know is faulty first i.e. the spill valve connection. Might not be that causing your current problem or it might be these other things are a distraction and the problem was under your nose all along ;)
 
Silicone isn't great in vehicles. I use Parabond 600, don't know if you can get it over there.
Stiffens up to the consistency of a rubber bushing and uses moisture to cure, so you don't need to dry everything up as much.
Adheres to just about anything.

About the dieselpurge, just use the bottle as a small tank, or if you want to run it longer a small 5 liter jerrycan with some diesel in it.
Correct size hoses and you're in business.

As stated previously get that spill valve sorted. IP related so automatically priority 1.

Diesels don't explode like gassers, you'll be amazed how quiet it is without the exhaust. When you rev it she'll make hereself heard :lol:
 
Ya, fix your SCV with spade connectors, but cover with Self Vulcanizing Tape, not silicone or similar. The vulc tape is easier to remove, solid, strong, and easy to wrap on. For supporting the cable (for vibration), the padded IP cover would do, I presume.

The spade connectors would be the narrow kind, right? The type used on some speaker elements, 1/8" is it?

Edit: Just saw your other thread.... (Sure it wasn't there a minute ago)
 
Done the following (still no nearer)
1: spill valve connection
2: revved engine with exhaust off and cleaned Cat with petrol
3: Took of the fuel return valve (black cannister that sits below fuel filter - IP return pipe goes onto it) checked that it's not blocked
4: Diags as below

Waiting for some diesel purge to arrive from Ebay (although I have been putting injector cleaner in the tank frequently).

Run diags: EOBD plug shorted pin 4 & 13: Diags come up on SatNav screen (half in Japanese and half in English) EMV, ECU, CDCH, H/U and another ECU all show as ok! Tried with just ignition lights and tried whilst on a run clearing an number of times and resetting all via screen.

Don't know whether the this means anything to anyone, but if I use part throttle from a start the car will pick up and reach 60mph. If I try full throttle it won't pick up at all. If I rev it standing on the drive, it revs ok to 2000rmp (sound very sweet and smooth no smoke) beyond this point it stutters and smokes at around 3000 revs.
 
Further update:

I've had varied results and at times the power had come back for a few minutes, other times it will bearly tick over! I've tried fueling the truck from a container with clean fuel, which seemed to work well the first couple of times but now there's no real difference. I've tried putting a fuel pump inline (button on the fuel filter goes hard nearly immediately) but no real change.

I do now have some blink codes that need decoding:
2 flashes followed by 4 then 3, 3, 9 & 9.

My gut feel is that either I have dirt in the I.P internal filters or Injector Nozzles??
 
Finally resolved the problem; My IP had a gelled substance and blocked internal filter. Injectors were also tested by passed with flying colours... Thanks TT Automotive!

It would seem that this is either from using a 50% mix of Biodiesel with the bio (having solvent cleaning properties) washing the tank of sludge build up over years though my filters, or soap residues not removed during the production process in my fuel.

Does this mean that properly made Biodiesel should not be used in a LC? Not sure! But I do know that the bio did not cause any damage just a blockage. I will though suspend use until I can improve my manufacturing process, ensure complete removal of all soap residues and filter to 1micron absolute.
 
Great thread. Thanks for sharing.
Sorry for all the worries you had to go through.
:text-goodpost: :obscene-drinkingcheers:
 
Sorry to revive an old thread but I am having a similar issue to you Nathan. My car is not quite as bad as it will rev to 4200 in neutral - will get to 80-90 but before was a lot pokier and would get over 100mph without issue. I recently ran it dry a few times and thought the fuel filters were blocked so changed the main one and cleaned the tank sock to no avail. Cleaned the air filter and no improvement. I am now wondering about the in pump filter? Can this be removed while on the car?

I used to hear a nice turbo swoosh especially with the K&N filter but now do not - I guess my nect step is to check the variable vane actuator?

Thanks

Rohan
2003 4.2td amazon
 
Just for info. Nathan last seen on the forum in 2018
 
Not according to his profile. But that doesn't stop anyone else from helping, I was just wanting to point out that unless he has alerts set up, he won't see your call for help. As a mod I can see when people last logged in you see. Last post before yours on this thread was in Nov 2010.

I am sure that someone will come along Murph and help out. it's one of those 'one step at a time' fixes isn't it. Checking all the fuel supply is a good start. You can get collapsed hoses too btw where the pull of fuel is restricted by the hose being weak. Quite rare on Toyota original hoses but it does happen. It hasn't had an in line pump fitted anywhere has it? I had the same symptoms in mine where I didn't know the Walbro pump had a filter. I did all the things you did and got nowhere. I found the filter in the end and it was blocked solid. Went like a bomb after that.
 
Thanks Chris, really appreciate it. No it has no aftermarket pump. I will check for a collapsed line but I am thinking it is a lack of boost now rather than fuel as it is that turbo surge that has gone and no swoosh induction sound. It is really noticeable when it changes up at 40 mph but then doesn't kick on. I can test the turbo actuator with a vacuum but other than that guess I need to put a gauge on it to check boost? Great forum this!
 
Evidence does seem to be pointing that way. No expert on turbos myself. Never had to mess with one. Like I said, hose issues quite rare but worth just checking for anything obvious.

Come on guys, where are you turbo gurus?
 
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